motor oils prefered on performance boats
 

looking to see what people are using for there choice of motor oil and weights for there standard wet sump hp 500 style motors flat tappet and roller motors
Ive seen good results with brad pen, Valvoline vr-1 and Kendal. just like to hear the goods and bads. with there motor oil experience.

:food-smiley-007::food-smiley-007::food-smiley-007:

Use the search, more threads than you even want to read on this subject......I'll play though, mobil 1 V Twin 20W - 50.

You know that stuff at the dollar store with the $1.25 sticker.. DONT use that,,,,

http://publisherscatalogclearinghous...358711_lrg.jpg

Don`t tell any Prius owners but this this is how we roll
:silenced:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s7/...47633862-3.jpg

^^^^ I see 15w-50 syn blend Mystik. I posted this before as I have been buying 2 gallon jugs for 25 bucks and what a deal for this motor oil. I am going on my 3rd year using in many boat apps. This oil is made by Citgo and really is somewhat a no name to use in the boat world. Anyways the deal is use it, it is one tough freakin oil.

I have a customer who lost an impeller but decided to keep running his boat, The temp gauge pegged but he wanted to make it back to the ramp a couple of miles away (his words).

Well I get the boat in and go over all the info from the owner and then look at the motor. It looked like it was in a fire plus had fire ext all over the place. The engine died out on the water before he could make it back and was towed in. But when the engine died the owner had to use a fire ext. because he thought it was on fire from smoking really bad.

After looking things over I would say the motor is toast at that timeframe. The starter even looks like it was on fire but some of that was due to the wiring harness was completely melted and burned in 2 and I say completely. I had to replace so many parts on this app from the serve overheat except the block, heads, intake and carb.

Anyways to make a long story short the V8 350 Volvo lived internally on the engine side as I have no idea how. I think the engine had to be at the point if the wiring harness did not melt / burned in 2 to shut the motor down, who knows if the motor would have lived. So I sent an oil sample off to get tested that was used in the extreme overheat.

The oil sample results came back better than I would have ever of thought. The short list of it was, wear metals a tad high, oxidation a tad high, viscosity not bad and so on. I even cut open the oil filter and it for 4 sure got hot but really no wear metals in between the pleats.

Anyways for the money I don't think you can beat this oil. 25 bucks for 2 gallon jugs. That's just a tad over 3 bucks per qt. The deal of the day and I think worth trying.

Royal purple 20w-50

I figured this post would get some attention! in the automotive field I have used every oil under the sun I have always been curious if there is something that really stands out in a
marine environment with added constant heat moisture and stress. ive always looked at and judged oil after I have ran a motor drained oil at desired intervals and inspected the expired oil. some don't make it and some do. with limited marine performance knowledge im just looking for a little knowledge backed with facts on the supject.

Thanks everyone

Penzoil 25-50 here!

additive I use....


Is the inside of your motor dirty? Most likely! Some people will tell you the only way to clean your motor is to tear it down and rebuild it. This is no good!!! KaleCoAuto internals cleaner is a special combination of iron, graphite, and copper shrapnel of assorted sizes that work to sand and polish the inside of your motor! Add 2oz per quart of oil in your car. New engine clean shrapnel should be used at every oil change! Bottle includes pouring mechanism. Comes in 16oz packages. Do not ingest. Contact a physician immediately if ingested, do not induce vomiting.

Brad penn 20w-50

LOL tomtbone. any product that has the words Shrapnel and sand and polish the inside of your motor has to be good send me 3 cases ASAP. I have a couple dirty motors that need a good internal Sand and polish!

Lucas 20 50w

First your customer is moron, (you knew that) Secondly, that is pretty amazing. You didn`t say but I take it he was using The Mystic?

You know how it is, most boat owners especially rec boaters do not ever look at their gauges nor how to trim their boat properly. Early Volvo's did not have warning horns either unless you had it installed after the fact plus it was a carb app. Their fuel injected motors did.

yes I having been using the Mystik 15 w - 50 JT8 in all my customers boats for over 2 years now. Use their gear oils as well, I have something better in the works for gear lube but really not worth using in non performance apps. I will stick with all the Mystik products for those medium performance to non performance apps. For the money Mystik is a really good product made by Citgo.

x2

Valvoline VR-1, 20W-50. NAPA Platinum Filter.

Used oil analysis WILL NOT give you much of an idea regarding which oil is truly superior in regard to wear. You would have to accumulate millions of miles of testing and countless samples to achieve reliable trending. That said, it is a great to to catch problems and establish a oil change interval.

Personally I use RedLine 10w-40 synthetic. As long as you choose the proper viscosity oil and change it when it's begun to degrade,(established by several UOA's) you will likely have a very happy BBC. I will agree that Mystic products are top notch, along with Brad Penn. I do however think that a 50wt conventional oil is way too thick for even a BBC with loose clearances. Just my personal opinion.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Canola does not have the shrear strength and does strange things to roller lifters.

Kendall 20-50 GT-1 Hi-Perf Racing Oil.

I've used Amsoil Diesel and Marine for the last 12 years in my 23 years old 454 Mags. The last 4 years small blowers added. 1 was torn down for the first time 2 weeks ago and the bearings looked like they could've been reused.I'm staying with Amsoil.

Don't use coconut oil because it turns solid below 65* and makes engine cranking a little difficult. Peanut oil is OK.

Message your crank wit dis . http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/attachments/general-maintenance/167465d1394993262-another-oil-question-obama_snake_oil_salesman_wallpaper_g0dam.jpg

+1

peanut butter oil is best if you have peanut port heads.

i was amazed at how clean the insides of this engine was.usually an oil that contains a lot of zddp will have black deposits on the bottom of the pan.this engine did not.

heavy deposits can come as to what group of an oil base it is - meaning Group I will leave heavy deposits, Group II a little better at not, Group III getting a whole lot cleaner, Group IV and V are your true syn based oils - Group IV is PAO base with possible slight ester mix and Group V is Ester based with possible slight POA mix these do better jobs at deposit control.

Also deposit control with oil changes in a correct timely manner. Also internal engine heat and a motor oil that can control oxidation play a role deposit control and helps with corrosion.

Also calcium additive in the oil helps for deposit control but its like everything - balance is the important key as you do not one additive to take away (strip) from another additive as they all have to do their jobs as well.

Amsoil does well for not leaving deposits.

That's definitely the stuff!

http://i763.photobucket.com/albums/x...pseb72003b.jpg

Actually, that Obama oil cleans too well.

Cleans the money out of your pocket.

Cleans your business out.

Cleans your house out.

Cleans your employee's money out.

Cleans your employees house out.

on, and on, and on,

Cleans everything right the fk out.

Edit in: Does seem to get keep your butthole well lubricated though. Lasts for years !

Doesn't work on Illegal immigrants.

And your post cleaned the beer out of my mouth ! lol Hilarious !

Correct !

This is the umprecendeted case where used oil gives you everything....including total protection !

LOL. I edited it a little better since then. Doh.

Went back and reread , you got me again . ROFLMAO !!!

You are so anti 50w oil and love thin oil! lol You always post up that guys running 15w50, 20w50, 25w50, are simply doing it all wrong. I have never ran anything 40w in any of my marine engines, and about a million other guys have run 15w50, 20w50, 25w50, in high power marine engines for decades with great results. My buddy had a pair of 454 Mags in his old boat. They had 20w50 (never a specific brand, whatever was on sale) in them, since the very beginning. He sold them with over 900 hard hours, and the valve covers had never even been off! Oh, and his oil temps never exceeded around 180*.

I'm definitely no oil expert, but from my own experiances with marine engines, while it may work, I personally would not run 10w40 in my engines. For only one reason. I have never seen anyone run 10w40 in a loosely clearanced 800HP marine engine that sees long periods of extended high rpm running, and I sure don't wanna be a ginny pig. I'm gonna go with what I know has worked for me, and many others for a long time. My boat does not need to meet federal EPA laws, fuel mileage is not of a concern, I don't operate the boat when its below 70 degrees F, and I could care less if a thinner oil nets me 4hp at 5500rpm. I have never seen any oiling related issues when tearing my engines down, so I cant complain nor see a reason to change. It be like saying I been using the wrong crankshaft material for all these years, but yet never broke one, nor have had anything but great results using it for all these years.

All these oil threads about which brand is best, which viscosity is best, I'll bet that 95% of the posts are based on opinion, with 5% actually having factual data on what worked best.

But since we are talking opinions, I say stick with quality oil and filter, keep the oil temp under control, change it often, and go have a good time. Start doing things like using some walgreens shelf oil, too small of an oil cooler that cant control oil temps, too 0w20, straight 70 weight in a 496 mag, and stuff like that, and you may find yourself wanting to change recipes after it cost you an engine or two.

If we know say a 10w anything, flows like a straight 10 oil at winter temperatures, or a 15w flows like a straight 15 at winter temperatures, what does it do at 80* temperature? How about 140*?

Another thing alot of guys don't consider. We are almost all running pushrod V8's. Pushrod engines are a bit more forgiving with heavier oils, than say an overhead cam engine. I would personally NEVER try running straight weight oils, or any heavy weight oil in an overhead cam engine.

I love the idea of my engines getting adequate oil flow when I twist the keys on a summer day at the launch ramp. What scares me, is when I am leaving the harbor, my oil temp is at 90 degrees still, and I have to throttle the engines up to 3500RPM and get on plane, and stay there until the oil comes up to temperature. I'd be worried about not having enough protection at those temperatures, if the oil is too thin.

So my question is, what is the difference in viscosities between a 10w, 15w, and 20w at those temperatues? Many times on cold lake michigan, it's miles of running at 3500RPM, before my oil heats up. Sometimes, I cant resist and start running it hard before the oils fully warmed up. I am not so much worried if my rockers or cam are getting oiled at that point, Im more worried about metal to metal protection and film strengths.

I guess what I am asking, is what advantages as far as oil flow is concerned, can be seen at say 75* degree sump temps when starting the engine, when dropping from a 20w to a 10w, and what disadvantges, from a viscosity standpoint, can be seen at say 140* deg oil temps?

I do not see 20w causing cold flow issues, at 75* sump temps. At -10* F, sure, I can see that. Borgie, maybe you can better answer as I do know you've done lots of oil homework

I'm with you MT.

IMHO - some read way to far into things.

I can tell you this. I've been beating the crap out of hydraulic and hydraulic roller sbc and BBC for a long time. I can honestly tell you I get faster mph (track speed and boat speed) with heavier oils. 15w-40 to 20W-50. I don't run thicker (don't have the ballz) as some boat racers like Straight 40 or straight 50.

Valvetrain stability means 1 million % nore to me than cold flow.

I'm careful with my oil temps before I smash my throttle thru the dashboard - or gas pedal thru the firewall . Doesn't everyone ?

More cushion for the pushin - if you know what I mean ? LOL.

A 10w-40 flows as a 40wt at 100 degrees celcius. A 5w-40 is the same. The benefit is that it has less resistance to flow at startup. The lower number isn't effecting the hot flow viscosity.... Conventional oils accomplish this by using massive amounts of viscosity index improvers (VII's), whereas a synthetic, we will use a water synthetic for example, uses zero viscosity index improvers as its viscosity index is naturally high. These Ester based oils flow extremely well at startup in even frigid temperatures and have shear strength that cannot be attained by a conventional nor hydro processed or group III oil.

Below is a very good read for those interested. I get my information from many sources, but this is very easy to digest and a great starting point.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Increasing viscosity does not automatically equal more protection. Let's not use the example of CAFE compliant or emissions please, as that's plain ridiculous... A 10w-40 oil like redline is a racing oil. It's a true 40wt oil and is by far one of the most thermal and shear stable products out there. In short its not some fuel conserving 20wt oil. There are other oils in its league, but not many.

Morel actually wants a 40wt if I recall in speaking to Madera. A 50wt oil is thick as molasses. Ok fine it "works", but is it optimal?! I think not. Run what makes you happy. 50wt oils are antiquated. Back when engine builders (none who are qualified to speak on motor oils) thought thicker was better.. Guess why? Because oil was terrible back in the 60's, 70's and 80's. The reason you had to run a thick oil was due to the fact that it would shear down to a 30wt in a very short time... So 50wt was the s**T! Problem was that these guys didn't know why it worked and just surmised well the thicker, the better.. No science, no data. If it isn't broke, don't fix it mentality.