Fuel system set up
 

I`m going to put my big boy pants on this winter and put together a real fuel system with a return to the tank. I kinda know what I~M going to do but any pics/ advice on the set up/ mounting would help.

...11 or 15 psi pump?
Fuel log or put a regulator inline with my current set up?
What is a good reliable regulator?
I have two pickup per tank so I will use one for the return.

This is current deal:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s8/...88731990-3.jpg

-10an going from tank all the way to the Y

dan,a regulator on the return line works good and stops pressure creep.i got my fuel logs from hardin marine,id post a link but you know that i,m not that computer savvy.if you set it up with the reg on the return side go with the higher pressure pump.joe b is removing his aeromotive a1000 pumps and i think you could buy them for a fair price if you wanted to go that route.

Mike, what do you mean by higher pressure? If I recall, Dan has carb engines so is there a limit on fuel pressure before you have issues?

You don't want to use a pick-up for a return.

if you use a regulator on the return line the incoming pressure is not an issue as you adjust it to about 7.5 lbs.the more incoming pressure the more you return.

need more info on your setup

Mike, so I could use a regulator without the return line port and just plumb it on the way back to the tank.. I like that. Text me some pics I`ll take care of the rest computer man .:drool1:
Brown Baha, its a threaded bung , I will not use the pickup, good tip.

I only say that because with my infinite wisdom I did that one time not knowing the tank had two pick-ups. It took some fooling around to figure out the second bung had a straw on it.

I've noticed you're pretty limited if you stick with marine approved regulators. Is everyone using approved regs or do you feel non marine is ok to use?

if you want to come by i will show you how i did mine,it is a nice looking clean install.

What is marine approved?

Hey Dan , get me some pics please .

Just like with fuel pumps and starters etc. the regulators are supposed to be coast guard approved. I'm not sure what the difference is, but depending on the configuration you're looking for you won't have nearly as broad a selection.

I'm 99% sure nobody makes a coast guard approved regulator...

I know they do. The question is whether anyone cares about it ?

Generally marine equipment such as fuel pumps etc. have a vent/overflow tube that runs back in to the induction system that supposedly keeps raw fuel from spilling into the bilge.

Who makes one?

I don't want to hijack thread but Im looking to create a fuel system for a blow through fuel Injection system with dual tanks if anyone has experience could chime in.

To the hijacker you will need a switching valve to go from tank to tank, efi pump, boost referenced regulator a but load of fittings and hose.

This is pretty much how I would do it. This is the fuel block Mike Tee Cat is using , in the link.



http://www.cpperformance.com/p-337-f...ion-block.aspx

Off the top of my head- aeromotive and mallory.

Identical products as far as I know except for the marine approval.

Non Marine- http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...npt-regulator/

Marine- http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...ulator-38-npt/

Non Marine- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4207/overview/

Marine- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4207m/overview/

These are considered marine products but they are not coast guard approved.

If I use one of these right after my mechanical fuel pump

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-337-f...ion-block.aspx


Use one port to go up to my carbs and another port for this fuel regulator :

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13162...-5-12-lbs.aspx


From the regulator back to the tank.

Would that work?

Yes, but I would use a BLP regulator. It will mount into the log look nicer and is a much better piece for the same money

This one?


http://www.jetracinginc.com/index.ph...gulator-detail

Yes I paid under $100 from blp

that reg won,t work as it can,t carry enough fuel from 1 port to supply 4 fuel bowls at wot.even 2 regs won,t work.

Sure it will if you hook it up on the return side. Heck for that matter a $30 Holley will work.

Im so confused. This is a very simple, fuel system setup, or should be at least. You have a mechanical pump, and two carbs to feed. The entire idea of modifying what you already had, was to eliminate any possible fuel supply issues, which you may not have even had in the first place. I agree, that going to a higher pressure pump, with a return style regulator would be a better setup, than the self regulated pump, at 900HP. Looking for proven reliable setup here.

With that being said, I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel on this a bit. Trying to use a non bypass style regulator, to bleed off the extra fuel pressure in the system, with a fuel log/manifold, also not plumbed the way it was intended to be plumbed. I think life would be a helll of a lot easier, to just use a quality BYPASS style regulator, capable of flowing enough fuel for 900HP+ carbed. Restricting things down to 3/8' pipe, putting things together outside their intended design functions, sound like a good way to give yourself a headache, and possibly waste a bunch of money if it doesnt work as you planned. :faint2:

This I copied from post on another forum from a BG tech, where a guy was trying to do what you are trying to do (on a mild street engine)

The mechanical difference is all in what happens to the fuel once it enters in and how it is controlled. With a bypass the fuel enters from a side and exits out the bottom. Because of this the fuel is not "trapped" inside the regulator and all it has to do is exceed the set pressure and it lifts a ball and diaphragm with a spring to exit while maintaining a set pressure.

With a regulator the fuel can enter from the bottom or front and is trapped inside the regulator until the engine is started and the needle and seats start flowing fuel. The internals to a regulator are more complicated as it is continually opening and shutting itself off to maintain the pressure.

http://documents.holley.com/199r10575rev2.pdf

Copied from aeromotive site

7. I have a dead-head (blocking) style regulator and I want to run a return line. Will it work if I connect a return line to one of the spare outlet ports on the regulator and run it back to the tank?

No, this will not work. An open return line from one of the regulator outlet ports will render the regulator unable to properly control pressure, resulting in no pressure at idle, or at best low or no pressure at WOT under high engine load. Static regulators are normally open and designed to close when the set pressure is achieved, bypass regulators work on the opposite principle.

Pressure to a carburetor normally builds when the bowls are full and the needle shuts against the seat. An open line from an outlet port on a static regulator, running back to the tank, will prevent pressure from ever building at the carburetor needle and seat to begin with. It would be the same as taking a line from the regulator and putting it into a bucket; turn the pump on and you’ll have plenty of flow out of the line, but little or no fuel pressure to register on the gauge.

The only way a return line may be connected to a static regulator is if it is through a port blocked by a highly restrictive jet, normally something with a passage in the 0.015″-0.017″ range. This is done to allow a small amount of fuel to leak through the regulator valve to prevent pressure creep on a nitrous solenoid.

There are excellent reasons to install a proper bypass regulator for use with carbureted engines and Aeromotive has perfected this technology, offering a variety of world class bypass regulator options.

For more information on Static vs Dynamic Fuel Systems and the benefits of a bypass regulator, see Aeromotive Tech Bulletin TB-801 at www.aeromotiveinc.com under the Tech Help, Tech Bulletin section.
- See more at: http://aeromotiveinc.com/frequently-....tYvG5KSm.dpuf