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standard deck to a tall deck
Will a tall deck fit where my 454's are? Will the exhaust line up with the same holes in the transom currently? I have straight pipes all the way out to the tip, no rubber exhaust hose. Will all accesories and mounts fit onto the tall deck, flywheel, bellhousing?
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What boat? Twins? Crank to crank centerline? What brand exhaust?
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28 Pantera, twins, gil exhaust
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What's the crank to crank dimension? How much room between them now? I think a tall deck works out to be 5/8" wider
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the exhaust will be off...without any hose going to be tuff to say what you are going to have to mod..but not going to be a bolt in with solid pipe I do not think...
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good luck . mine surly didnt onmy fountain .. pain in the ass .. needed differant motor mounts the whole nine .. sucked
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Why would you need different motor mounts? Did you spread the engines apart further?
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
(Post 4257943)
Why would you need different motor mounts? Did you spread the engines apart further?
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This change/re-rigging will be a money pit for....what?..BTDT
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FYI I have a set of stainless marine gen 2 manifolds and tails that have been modified for tall decks out of standard bravo exhaust locations...just a matter of cutting and reweld tails
Did for my 28 apache....dry to the tip Can't see why you would change mounts, that would lead to transom assemblies being moved also... |
motor mounts ?? nothing changes down low...and you can't just jack the engine around for more clearance....
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Originally Posted by delsol
(Post 4258044)
FYI I have a set of stainless marine gen 2 manifolds and tails that have been modified for tall decks out of standard bravo exhaust locations...just a matter of cutting and reweld tails
Did for my 28 apache....dry to the tip Can't see why you would change mounts, that would lead to transom assemblies being moved also... Delsol, so you put tall decks in your 28 apache? Did you use the same motor mounts, bell housing and everything else? The only thing you had to change was exhaust? How much and how is it off or different? |
there is no difference in the bellhousing bolt pattern, STD deck or tall, or small block for that matter
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The 10.2 block will move the heads up and out, if you are running solid pipe to the tip, you will need to move the holes in the transom accordingly. Stick with a 9.8 block, you can go to 572 in a standard 9.8 block.
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If they are 5/8 wider, that means each exhaust pipe moves about 5/16 farther out correct? How much taller is the tall deck?
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bigboat. yes i ran to 588 cu na tall decks in it. they were tight but got them to fit. i did not change transom holes at all just cut flanges on the tails and rewelded them to fit. with the AFR heads mine were roughly 3/4 " wider and taller. we fly cut the mating surface on the manifolds a bit also to tip the manifolds closer to the valve covers
572 out of a short deck is not advisable btw. max is 540 to have a normal setup |
Originally Posted by delsol
(Post 4258173)
bigboat. yes i ran to 588 cu na tall decks in it. they were tight but got them to fit. i did not change transom holes at all just cut flanges on the tails and rewelded them to fit. with the AFR heads mine were roughly 3/4 " wider and taller. we fly cut the mating surface on the manifolds a bit also to tip the manifolds closer to the valve covers
572 out of a short deck is not advisable btw. max is 540 to have a normal setup |
and replied... lol
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feel free to call me if you want
5one9- 919-zero 878 dave |
I will get some measurements this afternoon.
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I saw accessories and flywheel in orig post . The flywheel will need to match your crankshaft -balance needs if your going to a gen 4 tall deck from something later then add oil pan , you will need to make sure distributor is where it needs to be in relation to your intake pad and such . Generally wont just swap out unless you have a special intake that puts dist back down in hole.crapshoot on accessories , if you have a buddy thats a good welder the exhaust will be fairly easy .you might be able to fab the riser tailpipe joint without welding , already forgot which exhaust you were running sorry
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There it is gil . Might be able to pull the 4 manifold studs and fab a adapter to redirect pipes back .think i remember a guy cutting out 4 pretty quick out of 3036 that put the tails back to the tips.you will need another set of gaskets
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My motors are 35 1/4 " crank to crank and i have about 1 1/2" between inside exhaust manifolds.
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Is your hatch ram in the middle or outside on the ends
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In the middle.
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Build some standard deck stroker engines and save yourself a bunch of assache. :thankyouthankyou:
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i rhought the same . mel riggs from riggs marine had to change mine .although i wasnt there .. had to custom headers from cmi they were touching . alot of rigging issues . although it might have been because of my huge oil pans pfaff used on my new engines .. maybe that was it .. hmm i cant remember exacty what his reasoning was .. at the time dint give a chit just wanted them in ... lol
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Originally Posted by vintage chromoly
(Post 4258525)
build some standard deck stroker engines and save yourself a bunch of assache. :thankyouthankyou:
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Also remember using different heads with raised exhaust ports will change tail location also.
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Originally Posted by kwright
(Post 4258537)
also remember using different heads with raised exhaust ports will change tail location also.
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Dale, put blowers on yours, running out of time LOL
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Tim, thanks buddy for letting me know, lol.
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Was told Friday that going from standard to tall deck is 1/3" up and out at a 45 degree angle and then after market heads are another 1/3" up and out at a 45 so you guys are right need to stay with a standard deck cause the up part will not work so well for me. I am already touching hatch and rear deck above transom is already notched.
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AFR raises the exhaust .250, others even more.
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Originally Posted by bigboat28
(Post 4258952)
Was told Friday that going from standard to tall deck is 1/3" up and out at a 45 degree angle and then after market heads are another 1/3" up and out at a 45 so you guys are right need to stay with a standard deck cause the up part will not work so well for me. I am already touching hatch and rear deck above transom is already notched.
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Ron sporl Performance
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Interesting.
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With using the same heads.. going from a 9.8 to a 10.2 block.. exhaust will be .285 higher and .285 wider with the 10.2 block
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98 32 fever tall decks stelling dry headers no problem changing plugs custom headers help alot
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Originally Posted by BLUEMAGIC
(Post 4261395)
98 32 fever tall decks stelling dry headers no problem changing plugs custom headers help alot
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