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Not only will the given weight matter it will also depend on where the weight is. If you and or remove a given weight from the rear of the boat the effect should not be as drastic as adding or removing the same weight from the front of the boat. I try to keep everything that I can toward the rear or at least behind the center of gravity.
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I need to go on a diet, I may be able to gain 2 mph!
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Remember that sea water is denser and weighs more than fresh water .
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And sea water is at sea level.
Believe it or not, many forget about that performance advantage in of itself. |
Originally Posted by drpete3
(Post 4263038)
If I didnt take 800 pds of beer I could hit light speed.
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4263006)
Aerodynamic drag and hydrodynamic matters too. We can get another 1-2 MPH out of a 37AT just by playing with or removing the windscreen.
Swapping from 280 tabs to 380 tabs, as well as adding normal load tools, spare parts, anchors, lines, fenders, spare fluids, two extra batteries, and a fair sized stereo... ...is taking 3-5 mph off of my top end pending water conditions. I don't care though. I'd rather be prepared than chasing every last decimal point on the GPS speedo. Remember: Water: 8 lbs. per gallon Fuel: 6 lbs. per galon |
Originally Posted by turbo rr
(Post 4263108)
Sydwayz, I know we are talking about weight in this thread...but did you see a performance decrease using 380 tabs vs 280? Dont want to start a whole thread just for that.
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4263136)
I almost always run my tabs neutral. The length difference between the 280 and the 380 alone is enough to scrub a few 10th if not a full tick. If I was running a kilo, I'd likely take them off entirely.
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On the other end of things, rotating mass is another weight issue. Loosing weight in the drivetrain = more HP. Just costs a lot!
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On the other side of the coin, heavy wave crushers, while slower, tend to ride better than ultralight potato chip boats...
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