Thank you Sirs, I would be interested in a Thermo housing if you have one Eddie.

I'll check and get back to you.
Eddie

Of coarse I do. Everyone should have a hero. And if you want to run a thermostat Stainless Marine has the best crossover/ bypass kit. Some of the other kits out there aren't engineered with the customers engine in their best interest.

Bb, you may have been the only one who caught that, I missed it for a while and was a little puzzled, lol:popcorn:

I run my boat up north where it freezes to. I ended up running a resistor in place of my coolant temp sensor to get it to come out of warm up enrichment mode. My computer was tuned for the blower and warm up was set at 105degree and I never got it that warm. As for the oil, I could get that warm with some good hard running. My new 548 build this winter will have thermostatic oil control though. I really wanted to run A T stat also but was convinced not to. Colder the block, the less chance of detonation. My advice, send your computer in and have the warm up enrichment turned down to 50 degrees or whatever you want. Try a Resistor in the mean time. Maybe 28Eliminator will chime in here but iirc we used a 1,000 ohm. Instantly gained 10+ MPH and it felt way snappy compared to before.

Colder the head less chance of detonation. Colder the block the more chance of piston scuffing. You are super heating a piece of aluminum (piston) through combustion. The piston grows like crazy (hint put a piston on the oven on a low setting for an hour do a b4 and after measurement) it's amazing how much it grows. So by running without a thermostat what you have is a cylinder that is staying cold and a piston that is getting bigger. I think there are better ways to go about cooling the engine and keeping it out of detonation.

Don't agree with this...the race car guys are now using super coolers to get the block cold as possible, and the running either lots of compression and/or NOS or lots of boost and I don't see the pistons scuffing...back to this post, I would not run a thermostat for the cooling with procharger, would run a thermostat for oil to get oil temps where they need to be, on a crossover the intercooler is plumbed off of the crossover so keep that in mind...Rob

I guess that's why General Motors started reverse cooling. In the real high horsepower stuff we started dry decking and only running water through the heads (1/4 mile). On endurance road racing stuff I know for a fact they are all about keeping temperature in the block and will not even start that motor until all liquids have come to temp. So, what applications are we talking about here? Believe my I get it why guys swear by not running a thermostat but at the same time it's going to need more piston to wall clearance than a block with a stable temperature. The added clearance is going to be harder on the ring lands of the piston which in an endurance type of motor I don't care for too much.

I havent been running a thermostsat and it seems to work well for me. I have the Holley HP ecm on my motor and am able to adjust the warm up enrichment to whatever I like. My motor runs about 110 degrees so I have my enrichment set to turn off at 100 degrees currently. On the oil temp side of things I ordered a Thermostatic block adapter from Cp performance because my oil ran pretty cold.

One of my considerations when looking at crossovers was the distribution of water between the block and intercooler. The Procharger piece seems to work well in this regard.