![]() |
Odds and ends for a Gen IV refresh
Trying to decide on some things while rebuilding my Gen IV 454...
Nothing major with the build, but some random accessories and components... Should I re-use the following or replace with new... Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) Harmonic Balancer Timing Chain Cover (install new seal?) Power Steering Pump (Can't find a fair priced one, suggestions?? or clean up and paint?) Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? Im defiitely getting these new... Starter Alternator Camshaft & Lifters Timing Chain Head studs... any fitment issues with EMI Thunder manifolds? All new cooling hoses Anything else I should consider while doing on the motor? |
Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes Harmonic Balancer I - no Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes) Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works) Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store Im defiitely getting these new... - why |
What he said^^^^^^^^^^
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets. I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection. I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers. |
Originally Posted by f_inscreenname
(Post 4265469)
Should I re-use the following or replace with new...
Oil Pump (Prev did get water in oil) -yes Harmonic Balancer I - no Timing Chain Cover – no (install new seal? - yes) Power Steering Pump – no (or clean up and paint? – if it works) Oil filter adapter and remote mount (Considering it had water in oil?) If not how to rinse out? – If you are just talking about the hoses and mounts rinse out with diesel fuel or engine flush for the local parts store Im defiitely getting these new... - why I will definitely get a new oil pump... Ill clean up the balancer, timing chain, and steering pump, and paint what I can to make it look clean. With the oil filter adapter, I meant the part that mounts to the bottom of the block, the hoses, and the mount for the actual oil filter... Just go ahead and rinse it all out with engine flush??
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4265481)
What he said^^^^^^^^^^
I would just use new ARP head bolts and Felpro or Cometic head gaskets. I see no reason to replace the starter and alternator if they were working fine. Replace hoses as needed after inspection. I would use the money saved and upgrade to a roller cam/lifters and roller rockers. You think go with bolts instead of studs? Ive never used studs, but someone told me to as theyre reusable, more reliable, and wont stretch... Ill def get one of those brand head gaskets... Should I be using normal gaskets, or stainless steel MLS? Im using Edelbrock aluminum heads with the iron block Ive already got a set of roller rockers, but Ill look into roller cam/lifters... Soo expensive though, no? Over $1k for a kit? Going with new starter as its the original 20+ years old, and hard to change once in the boat... and the alternator has been quirky recently and when spun by hand can feel/hear the bearings are on the way out. I was going to replace both with some DBElectrical pieces... Both are under $150 shipped |
A well matched roller cam/lifters that is designed to make the most hp with your other engine components will give substantial gains.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds. |
If starter is full size unit you can take it and the alternator to a local rebuilder and get them done for 50 bucks each. Timing chain cover and oil pan can both rust through if they lived in a salty engine compartment. Check them. Also if you have the power steering valve with 2 lines running around them from 1 side to the other, ckeck them closely. When they rot through you get this pretty pink fog spraying power steering fluid everywhere. They are repairable with engine in place but no fun. 2 copper brake lines from auto parts store and a couple tight careful bends...20 bucks tops. But r&r steering valve is big pita.
|
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4265710)
A well matched roller cam/lifters that is designed to make the most hp with your other engine components will give substantial gains.
Yes use the SS MLS gaskets or cometics. Studs are not at all necessary for a mild build and are of no benefit. There may also be issues with them hitting the exhaust manifolds. As far as the cam Ill get a hold of RMBuilder to see what roller cam he recommends.... |
Originally Posted by dereknkathy
(Post 4265835)
If starter is full size unit you can take it and the alternator to a local rebuilder and get them done for 50 bucks each.
|
i see a lot of people talking about mls head gasket,s but on the lower to moderate hp engines[500 to 850]they just are not necessary.if the deck&head surfaces are not properly prepped the mls gasket can cause issues.imo,the fel pro marine gasket is a good choice for most bbc marine engines.
|
Agreed, Felpro Marine head gaskets with the SS core will work just fine. I've used them on 425-575hp top end refreshes and never had an issue.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:29 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.