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-   -   Ring end gaps (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/323401-ring-end-gaps.html)

mike tkach 02-25-2015 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4270263)
Has to only live for 6 seconds , 118 octane, 18:1 compression, rebuilt after every pass.. etc etc a little different than a marine motor.

different than a marine engine,yes but why do they do this?TO FIGHT DETONATION!that pro stock engine is run on the ragged edge from the hit of the throttle to the end of the run.

adk61 02-25-2015 11:13 AM

air charge temp!!

adk61 02-25-2015 11:17 AM

Mike you are absolutely correct... Prostock big compression etc etc etc... Detonation hazard even with the octane available in race fuels!!

sutphen 30 02-25-2015 12:35 PM


Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4270408)
in your neck of the woods no thermostat and your going to be freezing but if you go to arazona to visit borgie you surely will overheat.

and run a good radiator cap to bring the pressure up in the system,,it raises the boiling point of the antifreeze same w/ our engines,,get the pressure up or the back of cylinders heads will develope steam pockets.Steam w/ not registrar temp on a sensor.

TomZ 02-26-2015 01:38 PM

Guys, lots of good information has been provided in this thread. Yes, it did go off topic a little, but for the most part it's all relative. It's quite obvious that we have some very smart people here on this forum.

I'm happy with the answers and advice I received regarding the ring gaps for my set up. I'm definitely headed in the right direction.

I'm also very interested in the discussion that has unfolded regarding temperature extremes within the block, and whether to use thermostats, restrictors, circulating pumps vs crossovers, etc. This is all relevant to me and my set up (though probably with a little more detail than most would care for... still good stuff imo), and it's given me a lot to think on.

Just to add... In the beginning of my project, I was planning to use the aftermarket iron heads that I have, but have since decided on going with aluminum. I did this for a number of reasons one of which was to combat any detonation issues that the iron heads would have brought about. I have also decided to go with a crossover mainly for the reason that I don't think I can find a thermostat housing that would work with the blower set up... I feel the crossover is a necessary evil in this case.

The above probably doesn't add much to the overall discussion... just giving a rather casual update as well as saying thanks to everyone that's participated (or read and gained some knowledge) in this thread.

MILD THUNDER 03-12-2015 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by rmbuilder (Post 4270424)
We are comparing two entirely different scenarios.

On the engine that is starting cold at -20º F, and rising to say 180º,, the components will all rise uniformly relative to each other. The key is uniformly.Their initial and running tolerances are designed based upon the various material and their relative rate of expansion.

In the marine application, where you may experience, a 100º difference in running temp from front to rear cylinders, it's obvious you may want to rethink your initial clearances (ring end gap and piston to wall).

There is no editorializing on anyone's part on the way Tom, or anyone else for that matter chooses to configure the cooling system. Just data.

Bob

I was thinking about this today some more after I stumbled upon some car water pumps I have here.

I am curious, this particular setup that had 100* higher water temps at the REAR of the block, compared to the front of the block, what size block, and what generation block was this? Is there any data to view on this topic?

I myself, have never witnessed water temperatures 100 degrees hotter water or coolant at the rear of the block, EXCEPT, when someone installed the incorrect head gasket on the block, with the front water passages opened on the gasket, when they should have been blocked, allowing water to flow right in from the water pump holes, right out the thermostat outlet. I've seen guys overheat, seize valves, not once, not twice, but 3 times, blamed it on cooling problems, when in fact, they had the incorrect head gasket on it all along. Was all too common on Gen 5 and 6 engines.

I am just trying to get data, and also, understand, how, a circulating pump, evens out the water temperature in the block, better than a crossover? I'm also not understanding how, my vehicle, warms up much more uniformly, than a boats engine, to operating temp?


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