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hi, to re-hijack this thread again; perf dist 8-pin dynamodule. is that an EST stand-alone module like the merc voyager, with advance curve built-in? or is that a standard module like all efi setups where the ecm decides the ignition curve? and, if it is like the voyager, can it be installed in a car-truck dist to convert it to marine carb system?
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Originally Posted by dereknkathy
(Post 4274385)
hi, to re-hijack this thread again; perf dist 8-pin dynamodule. is that an EST stand-alone module like the merc voyager, with advance curve built-in? or is that a standard module like all efi setups where the ecm decides the ignition curve? and, if it is like the voyager, can it be installed in a car-truck dist to convert it to marine carb system?
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i am scratch-building a gen 6 454 setup into a 79 pantera. orig diz is points...and replacing centrifugal HEI setup in 2000 crownline i scratch-built last year with early 90's alpha setup. and i have 4 of these late HEI distributors. this is 2 different people getting info out of this thread.
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Alright, found the EST Modules with the 22° advance in by 2800RPM.
GM 10482830 (supercedes 16139399 - sometimes referred to as 'the 399' by FI tuners using EST)) Delco D1965A Mallory Marine 9-29800 The GM#10482830, by documentation, is said to be the Merc#811637 + Merc #811637T + OMC#3854003. In case this helps. Hope this helps. |
Below is a tbolt mefi file and a trouble shooting tree that should take you home. What you have not said or have been asked do you have a alarm or are you aware you have a alarm and does it report...2 when the key is on do you hear the fuel pump's pressurize you should hear them whine as they are pressuriung the system...Last but not least did you check the lanyard for continuty with a meter. You might not have a spark issue but a fuel cutoff issue also or both.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/99/99_02.PDF Delco est wiring for reference... EFI setup http://forums.iboats.com/attachment....1&d=1235359840 And carbed http://forums.iboats.com/attachment....1&d=1235359859 Check that GRY tachometer lead is not shorted to ground (-) at the tachometer or within the harness No spark Is battery good? Is distributor clamping screw tight? Check all terminal connections at distributor, ignition coil and ECM. No Spark With key switch in RUN position, check if electric fuel pump is run- 0 volts or fuel pump Check key switch, um run battery, engine ning. Check for 12 volts at positive (+) terminal on ignition coil. not running. and instrument wiring harness. Unplug distributor WHT/RED bullet connector from the harness. Check 0 Volts for 12 volts on lead coming form harness. Check 10A fuse and lead. 12 Volts Reconnect distributor WHT/RED bullet connector to harness. Install a Spark Gap Tester from ignition Spark at Ignition system is coil tower to ground (-). Crank engine over with key switch. S ark coil. good. No spark at coil. Replace sensor on inside of distributor. No spark at coil. Replace ignition |
Says he already changed coil and ignition sensor to OEM brand new.
No shift interrupt switch as its a Bravo III I will add once again go back to POST 29 & 48 and do all the checks that I mentioned plus already said the rest from the Service Bulletin including the 10 amp fuse in which has not been checked. The only thing I did not mention was the ignition switch and or under dash connections - |
Thanks again for everyone's help! Update, checked both batteries 12.8 & 12.9 volts, checked all fuses on motor as explained, grounded the Sensor ground wire with direct wire to the battery ground, checked the switch and checked the lanyard switch again, monitored the tach. while turning over. It was not moving. checked for spark again. nothing. checked for voltage at coil it was correct. After all of this I replaced the coil again with the original coil, engine started correctly. The new coil is not working.
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well don't you just love that!
I guess you're running again so thats the main thing. |
Can you tell me where you bought your coil from and was it OEM Mercruiser or Seirra or something online ? THANKS Also where did you buy the rest of your ignition parts from ?
I will give everyone an OEM part that could be bad right out of the box - this has been fixed last year or said to be. Water pressure sensor (Merc) And old stock of HVS distributor caps (flat caps) - 5 & 7 crossfiring was a huge problem - right out of the box - bad caps. This problem has been fixed across the board but again old stock on the shelves. Also old stock gen VII Mercruiser Impellers. This problem has been fixed but again still a few on the shelf.. |
Originally Posted by BoatnBrad
(Post 4275744)
Thanks again for everyone's help! Update, checked both batteries 12.8 & 12.9 volts, checked all fuses on motor as explained, grounded the Sensor ground wire with direct wire to the battery ground, checked the switch and checked the lanyard switch again, monitored the tach. while turning over. It was not moving. checked for spark again. nothing. checked for voltage at coil it was correct. After all of this I replaced the coil again with the original coil, engine started correctly. The new coil is not working.
is not shorted to ground (-) at the tachometer or within the harness No spark I hate to ask but did you inspect the tach ground. |
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