I've been around alot of big cubic inch motors. Piston to wall, cylinder finish, ring gap/ material selection, tune-up, oil control and also piston design play more of a role in cylinder wear than Rod angle. At least what I've noticed through the years. A smaller motor will show lesser signs of improper setup. A 502 @ 6000 rpm is doing a lot less work than a 598 @ 6000 rpm. Before you Blaim Rod/ crank angle on expedited wear did you really examine things closely? It's amazing what you can find if you use a magnifying glass when doing a tear down/ inspection. We could go into pages and pages about all the listed above but let's just think about this for a minute not saying this is your situation but a situation to consider. We have a wet sump oil system in a boat motor. For whatever reason (improper block cleaning) (initial metal from break-in) (list can go on) there is metal in the bottom of the oil pan. Take the boat out on a day it's a washing machine oil slops around in the pan. Guess where the metal laying in the pan ends up? Yep! Embedded in the skirts of the hot aluminum Pistons. Now what we have created is a 6000rpm cylinder scuffing tool.

I am not saying that's what made the cylinders that way besides just knowing what I read, I didn't build those engines and I doubt the guy that did checked anything, remember this is the guy that used a carbide but to chamfer p series bearings to work....

I am just educating myself and apparently I learned the wear was not from rod angle issues...