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thanks for the info when your friend had the high water pressure problem how high was it....
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If you thread your gauge into the intake cts port or anywhere that reads whats in the block and hit a genuine 40 thats freeze plug poppin intake gasket seal compromising criculating pump seeping kind of pressure there. Not always, but likely . ,
see what cmi requires for rough gpm flow per header to keep them healthy your engine or exchanger may be generating more heated water that the cmis need or want |
Originally Posted by airjunky
(Post 4326915)
If you thread your gauge into the intake cts port or anywhere that reads whats in the block and hit a genuine 40 thats freeze plug poppin intake gasket seal compromising criculating pump seeping kind of pressure there. Not always, but likely . ,
see what cmi requires for rough gpm flow per header to keep them healthy your engine or exchanger may be generating more heated water that the cmis need or want |
(following comments are for water/cooling references only) Just looked at the Merc diagnostics manual and the only alarms or Guardian Activated situations occur for Low Seawater Pressure BLK PSI LO which will sound alarm and go to Guardian mode, coolant over temp ECT OVRHT also, block pressure sensor failure will give beeps but not go Guardian and coolant temp sensor failure will give beeps but no Guardian. I don't see any capability for the computer to indicate excessive raw water pressure and go to Guardian.
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The block pressure is what would wake me up at night . If you have 50 at the pump outlet and its been good for years hey roll with it . If you have a exit problem ect and have 50 psi in the block its not all good .
if reads 40 wot at sensor that tells you if the pump is pumping 20 in the block 15 at inlet to headers and its not running hot then yea i wouldnt get freaked out about it |
Doh ! Heat exchanger ! Prob big bad boy too . Removeable end caps i hope.
Now we are back to the guy at cmi ,and a poppet valve dump. Might get an extra 30hp you didnt know you had |
Originally Posted by airjunky
(Post 4327078)
The block pressure is what would wake me up at night . If you have 50 at the pump outlet and its been good for years hey roll with it . If you have a exit problem ect and have 50 psi in the block its not all good .
if reads 40 wot at sensor that tells you if the pump is pumping 20 in the block 15 at inlet to headers and its not running hot then yea i wouldnt get freaked out about it |
Originally Posted by 253
(Post 4322758)
a friend of mine had this problem last summer, he finally removed both the engine cooler,, and oil cooler and used small wire to rod both, he got a 1/2 cup full of sand and some very small rubber impeller pieces out, he had back flushed a dozen times but flushing would not remove the pieces stuck in the tubes, they were stuck so tight he had to work to get them out but it fixed his problem immediately , good luck
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Another boating season.....Still have my high water pressure problem. My 525 is in the shop having valve springs and head gaskets. I now have 200hrs on the engine. Pulled the headers today and I'm off to CMI in the morning, David Rank at CMI seems to be very interested in my high water problem. We will be testing the headers and tail pipes for flow and pressure. I will post our results. Thanks for everyone's interest
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i still think you have small peices of rubber& some other junk stuck in one of the coolers.as already stated,they need to be taken off the engine and rodded out.i had one in the shop a few months ago ,it had been backflushed several times before it came to me.i could not believe how clogged the cooler was.
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