oil galley plugs
 

I have the bottom end together (crank, rods and pistons ) This is the first time I have had to install the oil galley plugs. I put the three in behind the timing chain cover. and the three in the back of the block. The question I have is there is one that has a 1/16 inch hole in it. I cant figure where this would have gone. The only thing I can think is in the front of the block by the cam to help oil the timing chain. ( I am using a JESEL belt drive )
Am I missing any under the oil pan??? I got the two at the front of the block in the intake valley.

yep it would go on the front to help oil the timing chain….dont know if you need that for a belt drive…I've never used a belt drive before so can't comment on that.

The one w/ the hole was in the front,not need anymore.Put a solid one back in.

The other question is am I missing any plugs???

The one in the back of the block to the right of the cam do the final install after you drop in the distributor. You can shine a flashlight in this hole with the distributor in place to make sure the distributor is aligned properly with the oil galley.

What block

the origin of the drilled plug goes back to the '60's when chevy started using hydraulic lifters in everything. there were lots of complaints about noisy lifters at start up. the fix was to drill the first plug in the lifter oil ports to bleed off the air faster. it fixed the issues and helps to oil the chain although there is plenty of oil flying around in there anyway.

It is a DART BIG M - I bothered Dave and he answered on Sunday. I had two extra plugs in the box of plugs. He told me I had found all of the holes. Have to machine down one of my 1/2 inch sockets to get at the inside bolts for the oil pan. I can't believe that you pay > $750 for an oil pan and it takes a special thin wall 1/2 inch socket and they can't include it with the pan. I went to 4 places today to try to find one.
Wonder how many people thought I was nuts going around with a micrometer checking sockets.

Don't forget the loctite on the pan bolts. What oil pan uses a bolt with 1/2" head? I've never seen that b4 I uses allens or 12-point

the belt drive is external and you would never use a drilled hole in a plug or want oil on it. also, since it outside the block, any drilled hole would eliminate your oil pressure and make a big mess in the boat.

as far as a special socket being needed for the oil pan, a 1/4" drive socket with a long extension should work. 3/8 and 1/2 sockets have too large an OD.

It is a STEPH's pan. And it uses a 1/2 inch nut. I had to grind down my 1/4 drive socket to fit into the hole in the bottom of the pan. Dave W. told me NOT to use Locktite. OH and it was more than $1000.
The oil galley plugs are behind the belt drive cover. There is no way oil is going to get on the belt. I got those plugs.

If you don't use loctite they will come loose. Even OEM's use a thread locker on pan bolts if you buy a new set of pan bolts it's already on the bolts.

We use Red Loctite on damn near everything (except main, rod and head bolts) and we still have some bolts come loose. There is soooo much vibration in a solid mounted engine in a boat that is constantly moving and flexing.
Eddie

Sterling uses it on everything. Including head studs (ouch!). Maybe they have stock in loctite...

When I worked as a tech at GM dealership years ago, most bolts came with a thread locker compound applied. Obviously being a dealer, we didnt use aftermarket stuff. So, if you installed new bolts, whether it be engine related, suspension related, rear diff, driveshaft, etc, the bolts usually came with the compound on it already. And yes, the oil pan bolts did as well, at least the ones I recall. Its been a while though. That was before I made the career change to the trucking business , aka gravel hauler :picard1:

maybe you should balance them better.:D

btw,,just joking around.

Look here you old fart........this is coming from someone who can't keep his own balance. lol
How ya been buddy? Give me a shout sometime when you get a minute.