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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4353364)
Yep. Fresh 15w50 Mystik. After a hard run, oil temp around 190ish, at idle, in gear, oil pressure was 20-25psi. Changed it out, for 20w50 VR1 Synthetic in that engine, same scenerio, oil pressure was 30-35psi.
I have those oil drain hoses that hook to my oil pans. Using my little jabsco drill pump, engines had been sitting for a week, I was able to suck out 9 quarts from the pan, in no time at all. Mystik was coming out like water. had not even 10 hours on it. |
Originally Posted by buck35
(Post 4353461)
curious what changed, suppliers, manufacturing, or what as I remember you touting their oils . At any rate thanks for the updated info, I'll be sticking with the vr1 I guess.:ernaehrung004:
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that is correct they are Citgo all made by them. Citgo makes a lot of OEM marine oils as well. More so years ago but still has a lot currently with the OEM marine engine manu's.
The best thing to do with your oil is have an oil analysis done. But you need to check out how well they can do this, so test them. I have done this in the past, take 2 samples to be sent off to them. Just fill your sample bottles one right after another from the same oil drain. You send one off with your info and have your buddy with a different address and 2 days later send in the other same sample. Guess what do not be surprised if your 2 samples comeback with totally different results. I have done it and the results were not the same - some not even close. . Time to test another analysis company with the same test. The day your oil samples come back exactly the same that's the company you want to use. Test your oil analysis company. Been there, done that. |
What position is best to check oil level, on trailer level ground or in water, sitting still? Maybe its 6 and half dozen????
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I prefer to check mine in the water. Depending on how the boat sits on the trailer affects the oil level.
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Makes sense as Baja customer service rep said static in the water is best time to assess fuel level. So, seems fluid measurements are best taken in the water...since that is the boat's actual/operating environment...
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I check the oil level when flat. Then mark the dipstick. This will be a reference for when sitting in the water.
You don't want to add more oil than the pan (flat) disctates. Having the rear (or any) of the crank turning in oil will foam it. Furthermore, One of the big advantages to having a large capacity oil pan, is so that you can run less than it calls for. Keeps the chance down of submersing the crankshaft. |
One of the reasons to blend and recommend a 25W40, it is cheaper to make. You need less polymer to make the oil a multi-viscosity product.
Friction modifiers do not shear, polymers do. Ken |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4354267)
I check the oil level when flat. Then mark the dipstick. This will be a reference for when sitting in the water.
You don't want to add more oil than the pan (flat) disctates. Having the rear (or any) of the crank turning in oil will foam it. Furthermore, One of the big advantages to having a large capacity oil pan, is so that you can run less than it calls for. Keeps the chance down of submersing the crankshaft. Right on the money... after putting 10 qts in my 10 qt pans the oil line was at "add" not "full" |
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