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Originally Posted by MER Performance
(Post 4366200)
horsepower1 (Scott) Please remove your "Like" from my "Post"
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I'm using a different builder this time around so hopefully all goes well this time. I haven't even mentioned this to the original builder, I'm not looking for anything from him. Time to move on from this I guess and maybe post some pics of the new build.
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Originally Posted by apollard
(Post 4366362)
The temp sensors read vapor temps with a very slow response time. So, if you were not getting water flow, they would have been surrounded by steam / air and read incorrectly. It takes a long time for the heat to get high enough to read on a temp sensor that does not have water on it. I burned up a car engine when it dumped the water quickly - temp sensors got into the hot range after it started showing signs of damage. Even after I stopped, it took a long time for them to hit the overheat range on the gauge.
See this all the time at work. If one at my shop does not check coolant level in radiator for many drivability issues (not just heating/cooling), you get a dope slap from me. And sometimes more. LOL. |
Any pics? Are your new motors done yet?
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3 Attachment(s)
Short blocks are done. It took a while because I was trying to decide if I wanted blowers. Now waiting on cams.
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2 Attachment(s)
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Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4373835)
Short blocks are done. It took a while because I was trying to decide if I wanted blowers. Now waiting on cams.
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Well, the heads are only the 305s and I'm sticking with the 4150 flange Vic Jr. I'm only changing the cam. I'll try a dominator with an adapter on the dyno to see if it makes a difference. No real hp goal. That being said, they will be 8 ci bigger, about .5 higher compression and spin them a couple hundred rpm faster. Cams will still probably be on the milder side. Although it didn't work out these engines were supposed to be way over built for the power so they'd stay reliable and last.
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"X" hatch scotchbriting is an old school process to leave microscopic scratches for oil retention in the bearing. Local well known and respected engine builder taught me that trick years ago. I still do it to this day, however, its effectiveness is not always seen agreeable amongst different builders.
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Is that how it looks? Maybe that's why it was done, nothing else really explains it
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