Locate a PROPSHAFT DYNO in Midwest???
 

I live in St. Louis but will travel. Trying to solve an ongoing issue that shows its face with engines in boat that's been ongoing for 3+ years :angry-smiley-038:. Any references would be much appreciated!

Sounds like a good way to break a drive

Lets hope not. I don't need to run the piss out of it to find what I'm looking for. But this will save months worth of water testing.... maybe longer :/

Give this company a call and see whom may own one in your area:
http://www.dynomitedynamometer.com/p...arine-dyno.htm

You might try Grand Sport Center in Illinois, I think they hooked my buddies boat up to one there when he bought it.

Mel Riggs, Riggs marine in Wisconsin has a prop shaft dyno.

Make sure the dyno setup has a large enough water supply for the motor.

what would be unltimately cool would be a in boat dyno that has a shaft that goes directly into the coupler

I always wondered why nobody took a propshaft type dyno and modified it to slide through into the gimbal/coupler once you pulled the drive off.

Sounds like a project for you Steve, I care not to remove my dyno cell and make it portable.....

This go power dyno that Norm has here is almost portable, HMMM!!!

What kind of problem are you chasing ???

There was a member on OSO that had an onboard 'dyno' on his boat. Maybe 10 yrs ago...I think he was active here for a bit.

Your request is a little short of what you have and what you are looking to solve... Nothing that is supported by the drive in a brake form will be able to be secured for any hi HP setup, data recording isn't going to be the same as in the test cell or as someone would use on a chassis-dyno. For sure; using the drive with the brake, could break it, our water brakes are designed to load the engine 100% with water force, it's not the same as running a boat with a prop at propeller slip, when considering load...

This one here. Seems the boat has a curse on the port side. About out of money and patience. Have a very few more things to try but everything that been checked on these engines and the old engines tested perfectly fine. But still the port side is lazy. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ort-motor.html

Oh, yes. make it all adjustable, then make it mount to the trailer or boat... how do you tie the two together for securing it ? one is going to have power input torque the other will be resistance torque.. This would be a job to adapt, into a boat... Just saying

yes,gsc in morris illinois has one,but thats a pretty good ride from st louie.

Yes about 3.5hr drive. Be much worth it if I could pin down what is going on. Im not looking to use this to get max hp readings. Already have those. Just need it as a tool to load the engines to compare readings/voltage drops/fuel psi drops ect. Hopefully they keep it at their morris location. Their location up past Chicago is about 5hr drive. Thanks

I had a 99 33' Eliminator Daytona here that would do the same thing . We found a Old Style Gimbal Bearing in that side. It was Loading the Input Shaft Bearings on the Imco SC and also made the drive hotter. You might check to see if the bearing face is flush with the Aluminium Ring , If its not , you have the Pre 1998 Gimbal Bearing. The new 1998 up have one flush face and one protruding face , the old have both faces protruding.

Thanks man. I actually put new gimbals and aligned both engines a few weeks ago. Didn't fix anything even though I thought it would. Had to make new stringer mounts for both engines as they were about 5/8" to high. At least my drives slide on very easy now.

I don't know; about your boat. But I have seen mismatched lower gear sets that will give you a headache.

they do have one in morris.give them a call,the number is 815 941 2220.tell them i told you to call,i get my mercury parts from them and just bought a srt challenger they had on consignment 2 months ago.

I'm still betting on a fuel delivery issue, nothing else seems to make sense.

pier 57 use to have one

Buck, nothing has made since with this issue. It's very frustrating to say the least. Fuel is definitely another item on the radar. Just odd it's the exact same rpm drop. If it was short on fuel by a certain rpm before you'd think I'd be even worse now, and both engines on that side should have leaned out to death by now! Hell, I went from 88 jets on old engines to 99's in the new to get me 12.5:1 on the dyno. So I'm needing a ton more fuel now comparatively. But still exact same rpm difference. 300 down at 3000 and 500 down at 6000. Definitely something going down just not easy to catch it

Post # 8 and 10 in the video.

You are looking for an prop dyno the 2 main player were International and when Land & Sea were making them many years ago. Land & Sea makes them still but they are more current and expensive. Like 10 k for brand new currently.

I use to have an international but sold it a couple years ago

You might be able to call around the boat dealers close by and see if you could rent time on theirs.

they still have it.

info for whomever

http://www.internationaldyno.com/products.html

sorry post # 8 and #10 here in this link then click on the youtube links

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...s-install.html

That's something I'm worried about with prop shaft dyno. The water. I have thru hull pickups and just at 1800-2000rpm I can pull a strong garden hose half shut. The headers get hot when on the hose with no load. With a load would be horrible and I have stelling dry's. If one of them go Im up ****s creek

Yeah Shogren Pier 57 has one

just fyi,no longer shogren pier 57,back to shogren.

What a fustrating issue, I know that you have checked everything about 5,6,7 times now on the motor and drive side. I also know that the problem is present in neutral which makes some of what I am thinking irrelevant, assuming you have verified the actual trim angle and drive height is equal on both sides? You did let a little secret out in this post that I don't think you mentioned before are you sure the water pick-ups are in the exact same position and are not spoiling the water to the drives. It is possible that your issue is not with the motor that is low on RPM's, it could be with the so called good motor that is high on RPM's. People much smarter then me will know better what that does.

One quick test that I can think of that might show this is to run the boat a degree or two off centerline both directions to see if it changes anything. I know that doesn't explaine the drop in neutral but it could certainly be playing a factor while underway and loaded.

Thanks for the response. You could be on to something and my thoughts weren't far off this yesterday. I will know more hopefully Thursday but when I put the drives back on swapped I did make some adjustments to the tie bar. I thought The neutral differences could be a fluke and unrelated and here's why: initial carb accelerator pump reaction vs throttle lever position. I noticed the port (just off idle) doesn't respond as fast cable wise as the starboard. Like an initial slack in cable. When I checked the cables before the first checkpoint was about an inch up at which point they are about equal. Before that the starboard cable reacts faster. Maybe because of the shorter cable. I tightened up as much slack as possible in port cable but this tells me that likely the neutral tests have all been inconclusive. At least that's my theory there. Regardless both the carbs have definitely been going full throttle. That has been tested many times and the levers have plenty of room left when the carbs are buried full open.

Running the new slip numbers the starboard engine at 6000rpm is at 7% slip. The port would be at -1% slip at 5500. I don't think the one is aerating. Looks like the higher reving engine is right on.

I have a prop shaft dyno (land and sea). I've done a lot of boats up to 750 pshp. It won't hold much more than that. Just doing a sweep test only takes about 8 seconds so cooling is not a big issue. If you need to run an extended load test then it's an issue. I'm in central Texas so it might be a little far for you to drive, but I've had several people tow that far to find a problem.

Bob Lloyd

like here-
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-pictures.html

Not quite what you want, This uses a Stellings extension box. Shows real time HP and TQ while driving.

Well, I swapped the drives and also adjusted toe to 1/8" in. Also adjusted the port throttle cable a bit. Not sure what exactly to say because the problem didn't chase to the other side. It basically went away. AFR was mid 12's all the pulls. Very confused and don't know exactly what fixed it BUT I'll take it! Also posted this on other thread....