Pulling an engine TRS SETUP
 

I am pulling engines from boat and would like to leave transmissions in. Is the easiest way just to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing?

Simple question, hopefully a simple answer. Thanks.

U can do it that way , but your gonna have a hell of time putting the motors back in . The easiest and right way would be pulling the drives off and then pulling the motors and trannies together.. If u leave the trannies in they will need to be supported..

Okay, so pull drives and then unbolt from transom assembly like a bravo (2 big bolts)? Then pull engine/tranny as a unit?
Thanks for the quick response

No idea why you'd want to leave the trans in the boat, as Tom said lining it back up will be a major pain. You can leave the drives on and pull it also.

Well that's why I was asking. Initially I thought leaving them in may be easier but that's not the case. Thanks

leave the drives on , unbolt the rest if you can move motors forward enough ,, pull the engines and trannies together if you have the room ?

Well I'm pulling the drives off anyway, wouldn't the input shafts get in the way if the drives were on?

You can pull them with the drives on, putting them back in you will want to pull the drives first. I pulled the motors and transmissions together.

Ok, sounds good. I pulled the exhaust which gives a lot more room. Looks like they will be coming out this weekend.

I always left the exhaust on and just pulled the risers, but it took some contorting to get the motor mount bolts in. How bad was it getting the exhaust out in the boat?

Start to finish maybe 2 hours max. Really wasn't bad.

What are you doing to the motors? I think I saw you were going to do heads.

You still have to pull the drives off (I think as someone stated) when you put the engines back in. there is no way in hell you could get the input shaft to line right.
Also If you have the velvet drives with the shift interlock valve on the top of the trans, don't forget to disconnect the lines from that valve. Every time Ive pulled my engines I have always forgot about it. Also, when you pull the trans/ engine out, look at the fiber washer/ spring washer that go between the trans mounting ears and the transom assembly. I found the spring washer on one of mine had cracked.

All of the washers, springs, and bolts were brand new when I put the motors back in a couple of years ago.

I put about 100 hours on this year, and after adding steering the boat is great.
It has a minor oil leak, and I want to add lines to easily drain the engine oil.
My plan is heads and cams. I'm thinking dart 308s and a cam similar to/or 525efis. I think that and labbed props will get me high 70s. I have a set of 25 mirage plus props to lab.
One thing is low idle oil pressure is low after running. Runs maybe 15 to 20 but goes right to 40 if you bump them to 1200 or so. I don't think anything is hurt but may need a high volume oil pump? I'm probably gonna pull some bearing just to check/measure the condition.
The boat has run flawless.

The oil pressure has done that as long as I have owned the boat, even on the original motor. 20/20 hindsight I wish I had put high pressure pumps in them. Usually after idling for a minute they come back up. I thought there was a good chance it was either foaming the oil or oil temperature was high. The other thing I wished I had done was upgrade the oil coolers, lines, and fittings.

I am really happy to hear the boat has run well for you.

Yes, it comes back up fairly quick, and never runs below 40 at 1200 or so. I can always add bigger coolers and may research high volume pumps while it's out. Another possibility is 50 weight oil, as I have run 40.

Want to watch me do it? I'd rather do it that way. Hate trying to put trs or ssm drives back on after. I've done it this way with about 10 different trs boats couple ssm 3's, and a couple of ssm 6 boats. Formula 311 included

Showoff.

To see upper 70's with a TRS 311 you will need closer to 600 hp spinning labbed 25 plus's to at least 56-5700, that's what it took my buddys and he did everything to get it there, went 80 with 502's and Edelbrock heads one time... but with the merc HP500 heads would only go 75...5350rpm

Same here. I've done it many times, pulling AND installing engines, with drives still installed, on both TRS, and SSM plug in setups. I actually find it EASIER, to guide the shaft into the tailstock when installing the engines, vs trying to guide the shaft in, when installing the outdrive.

hmmm never tried, I hang my drives from engine hoist so to me its easy to do drives, I always thought you had to pull them....I figured it would suck to put engines back in....

As long as you have enough room, which your Cig does, to move the engines forward while pulling, its no problem. I usually will hang the engine, so it wants to lean towards the transom when installing, then pull it towards bow while its hanging from hoist, insert penis, then let engine lean back towards transom again. Have a buddy rotate the prop shaft, and adjust engine height a tad while he is doing that, and usually the penis slides right in.

really?? the penis? lol

I'm trying to make it easier for you to understand, in laymans terms. I know a penis is something you can relate to. :cartman:

hahhaah

Yeah have to see, I am running 70 to 72 now with mirage plus 23s. We'll find out when they go back in I guess.

Spent 10 years trying to hit 80 in a 311, takes perfect combo.... the boat ran perfect and it was tough to do. once you get 75 anything over is just that much harder..

Yeah I know they take a lot to get beyond 75. I spin stock 25 mirage + to about 70 @4900 rpms now. They are a bit slower on the top end than the 23s, but the slip is quite low. I like the cruise with the 25s, about 50 @35-3600. I figure between the heads/cam and labbing props if I can gain 600rpm and turn them 5500 that would be nice. Once I start putting it back together, I'll probably start a thread. It's not one of the big money, big cubic inch threads, but still interesting for some I'm sure.

454's or 502's? All build threads are good lots of good info here.

They started as 454/420s. .040 over with mild roller cams now.

I will say this.if you never installed a trs drive,but have done bravo or alpha drives,then your in for a eye opeaner.I have always installed mine with the motor/trans installed.i hang the drive on my engine cherry picker and aline it that way.the first time I tried I could never get it to aline up.a buddy came over and schooled me.i can do it now rather quickly now.practice makes perfect.

Nice heads and cam should get you around 530-550 hp and mid 70's I would not expect much more then 74 but should see that

Masking tape on the U joints is a life save if engines are aligned right they slide right in....

Yes, last time I ended up using masking tape to tape the ujoints straight. Drives slid right on no problem after fighting it for hours before.

I have pulled my engines in all configurations. I hate putting my starboard TRS back on and will not pull the drive unless necessary.
I pull the engine from the transmission and prop the transmission up with a 4x4. When I install the engine I leave the spark plugs out and just turn over the engine with a ratchet. It aligns the coupler and transmission. No big deal.

I have heard of that being used before.another trick I learned is to use a old shaft to aline the splines before you engage.

I wind a piece of string through the forward u-joint and with the joints positioned properly I can move front yoke up down and side to side .Then I steer it in .Getting the splines to align is just a matter of barely moving the prop. If it doesn't go pull it back and move prop slightly and go again. Once in ,since the string isn't tied I pull one end of string to get it out. When trs's were common this was my standard operating procedure. Works for me. I've seen people use tape but don't like the idea of leaving it in there.

Engines are out and in the garage, went pretty smooth