Offshoreonly.com - Manley Nextek springs? Anyone?

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This is what Manley valves did for me:

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/DSC01806.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/DSC01807.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/DSC01808.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/DSC01809.jpg

Granted this was a 6.1 Hemi and not a BBC, but they only had 5,000 miles on them with a mild cam. Went back to stock Mopar springs with a bigger cam and stroked it to a 392, and put 85,000 miles on it before I sold it still running strong. I will NEVER run Manley anything ever again. There customer service sucked too.

I just had the same situation on my stock 5.7 hemi. Got a new engine installed under warranty due to it. Piston and head were destroyed. In my situation, it was a dropped valve seat.

I've had Manley "Inconel" valves in my boat engines , never had a problem with them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by murfman (Post 4387725)

This is what Manley valves did for me:

Granted this was a 6.1 Hemi and not a BBC, but they only had 5,000 miles on them with a mild cam. Went back to stock Mopar springs with a bigger cam and stroked it to a 392, and put 85,000 miles on it before I sold it still running strong. I will NEVER run Manley anything ever again. There customer service sucked too.

So the valve failed, but what was the root cause? Was the rest of the valve train well arranged?

You can't just drop a hollow post like that railing a well known manufacturer without some back up data.

I don`t blame the tire when I get a flat, I blame the nail.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4387802)

I don`t blame the tire when I get a flat, I blame the nail.

I always want to know who the sombeech was that left the nail !
edit , I aggree .. what was the root cause?

some movement is normal there, yours looks like to much for sure, found out it best to get springs with the matching retainers/seat from same pace, also you asked how to get certain installed height..different retainers or longer valves..

Using Manley was nice when I lived in NJ because the factory was only 20 minutes away but I stopped using them about 7 years ago. I'm not sure if the quality has improved but I stopped using Manley when I was seeing quality issues with timing sets and valves. From there I started using Ferrea valves, Cloyes or Rollmaster, Manton or Smith Brothers and Isky or PAC springs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4380724)

Anyone running these springs? Doing some spring shopping.

Yesterday I tore into my stuff, as I plan on replacing valve springs. Had isky's. Took a couple springs off, doing some measuring and checking. Didn't like the wear marks in the ID locators. Started looking further. Spring fit sloppy on the locator. The locator shoulder measured .680. Spring's inner ID, .740. It had a nice .060 clearance. Same story on the retainers. Looks like the springs may have been wandering around. Guess is pays once again, to take stuff apart yourself and check it. :pacifier:

I've had good luck with the isky's, but just looking around a bit.

their endurance spring is a great one for marine use... very expensive though... PAC is also a suitable alternative... I've been running them for a while now... great spring and great value...IMO

Quote:

Originally Posted by horsepower1 (Post 4384957)

Clearly the wrong ID locator for that spring and I agree...there was no way you were getting 165# with those installed heights. The variation in installed heights comes from measuring the first one and "assuming" the rest will be the same just because the retainers and locks are "supposed" to be the same. Depending on where you get them (retainers and locks) they may vary as much as you see or even more. To get installed heights right, every valve needs to be measured. Springs, retainers and locators all need to be matched for proper fit. I'll share one other little detail most don't know; if you look at the pic of your valve spring, the ends of the coils are different on the inner and outer. The outer looks like it's clipped off straight and square, and the inner looks like it has a point to it. There is a top and bottom to each valve spring...the top is the end with the point, and the bottom is the end that is cut square. If you look at your spring, the other end of the outer will have a point, the the other end of the inner will be cut square. That spring in your pic needs to have the inner removed and flipped over so the points are on one end and the square cuts on the other. The pointed ends go up when you install the spring. I can see that the tip of the valve stem in the video doesn't look real happy either.

agreed... the proper time MUST be taken when assembling cylinder heads for any application... but especially a blower app... each spring height should be carefully checked adjusted to spec then rechecked for accuracy and proper fitment then assembled... too many short cuts ... but there are two things that don't belong together.. that's cheap and good!! better luck next time Joe

On high performance setups its good practice to check the springs ends for sharp and rough edges and smooth them up. I like the beehive springs when they can be used in a set up. There light weigh coupled with a titanium retainer are good for 1000 to 1500 more RPM because of weight reduction. The variable rate of them have an advantage too.