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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4381403)
i want a blow by meter,where can i get one?
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4381384)
I'd like to see a test with a blowby meter installed, with a properly setup gapped ring, vs a gapless..and see what is really going on. Conventional gapped rings aren't designed to seal sitting on engine stand with the engine off. I think its pretty much been proven many times by some pretty big time engine builders/race teams, that the low leakdown numbers when comparing gapless rings, have no real world relation to what is really going on once the engine is off the stand.
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4381481)
Ran the top gapless rings before I hatted them motor used more oil than my standard gap ring pack, Just rebuilt 2 900sc mercruisers that also had the top gapless it used oil. I have herd lot of complaints about that before. If you ask me if the engine has no blow by the ring pack will fill up with oil and it will not preform well at all.
And the cylinder prep was done correctly! |
Originally Posted by horsepower1
(Post 4381512)
Actually it's pretty much the opposite. Gapless tops almost always show a few more HP and if that's what you're looking for, then they're the way to go. I hate them because they're a PITA to install so I usually just stick with conventionals, especially on builds where I'm not looking for every single last HP but then, I have a twin turbo BB going together that we used the gapless top on. I think I let Ed @ TS talk me into that one. Pro Stock drag teams run them as thin as .031". I know that's not really relevant to the discussion, just showing to what degree they'll go to use them. Pretty much used in all high end racing. Blow by testing is where they usually shine the most. Every serious dyno set up should have a blow by meter. Cyl prep can also mplay a huge factor in how well -or not- gapless top rings work. Gaplaess top, napier second and low tension oil rings usually works out to be a good combination but there is also a lot of disagreement on the benefit of gapless tops. One big benefit across the board that's talked about is less oil contamination and better vacuum.
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4381525)
the zero gap rings are a little tricky to install.if you are not careful it is easy to damage the skinny one.it takes some finness.i think some people don,t like them because they had problems when installing them.
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Originally Posted by horsepower1
(Post 4381527)
Yep...I've also heard where guys install them upside down...
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So is the consensus standard rings for a blown application? Or is there no consensus?
Milds oil stays clean a long time and very little blow by with standard rings. That`s my number 1 concern. Mike I~m going to leave that up to you :coolcowboy: |
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/4...from-old-site)
Gapless more bad than good. TS likes to blame it on valve seals. |
Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4381569)
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/4...from-old-site)
Gapless more bad than good. TS likes to blame it on valve seals. |
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4381564)
So is the consensus standard rings for a blown application? Or is there no consensus?
Milds oil stays clean a long time and very little blow by with standard rings. That`s my number 1 concern. Mike I~m going to leave that up to you :coolcowboy: |
And they have Blow by meters out in the market to check ring seal. I have never used one but some old timer air plane engine techs really like them. Just saying.
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I can only speak for my own experience when it comes to my boat engines.
468ci, 6-7lbs boost, 800hp, twin 850 carbs, JE blower pistons, speed pro file fit plasma moly rings I paid around 150 bucks for. These engines were built in 2012. Blocks were fully machined at borowski race engines in joliet, illinois, and assembled at Mike Tkachs place. They are in my 38 Fountain with #4 drives. So far, 4 seasons, and around 100 hours on them give or take. Summer of 2014, I did an 8 day trip to Loto. I logged over 400 miles that week , and mostly running 4000-5800rpm. During this week, i did not have to add a drop of oil. No oil coming from breathers . Returned home, put boat away. Then took it on a trip to traverse city michigan. Did a weekend up there, along with a 60 mile fun run. Again, spending alot of time at wot, as the water was calm, and my hull is slow. Still, no need to add oil. Oil was still clean on the dipstick as well. Same story 2015, no oil useage, no blowby issues, no dirty oil. Looking thru a bore scope, the cross hatch patterns still look great. Compression tests same as they did 4 years ago. I cannot ask for anything more from the setup in that area. Now, this isnt a long stroke big bore deal, soo....Not in anyway suggesting any of that couldnt be done with gapless total seals, just stating my experiences. |
Dont forget about ring seal = ring lands and good motor oil.
a little added info from R&M http://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-2...-of-gas-ports/ |
and the oil side. 2 companies I allows follow and talk to in person.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...ee-horsepower/ |
I agree with the Importance of the oil.... Just bought 6 qts of brek in oil for an engine i'm finishing up now. Dare I say it is for a "automotive application" on a boating sight?
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4381598)
I can only speak for my own experience when it comes to my boat engines.
468ci, 6-7lbs boost, 800hp, twin 850 carbs, JE blower pistons, speed pro file fit plasma moly rings I paid around 150 bucks for. These engines were built in 2012. Blocks were fully machined at borowski race engines in joliet, illinois, and assembled at Mike Tkachs place. They are in my 38 Fountain with #4 drives. So far, 4 seasons, and around 100 hours on them give or take. Summer of 2014, I did an 8 day trip to Loto. I logged over 400 miles that week , and mostly running 4000-5800rpm. During this week, i did not have to add a drop of oil. No oil coming from breathers . Returned home, put boat away. Then took it on a trip to traverse city michigan. Did a weekend up there, along with a 60 mile fun run. Again, spending alot of time at wot, as the water was calm, and my hull is slow. Still, no need to add oil. Oil was still clean on the dipstick as well. Same story 2015, no oil useage, no blowby issues, no dirty oil. Looking thru a bore scope, the cross hatch patterns still look great. Compression tests same as they did 4 years ago. I cannot ask for anything more from the setup in that area. Now, this isnt a long stroke big bore deal, soo....Not in anyway suggesting any of that couldnt be done with gapless total seals, just stating my experiences. |
Originally Posted by horsepower1
(Post 4381636)
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ;)
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Thanks everyone for the education on gap-less rings. I guess if regular rings have worked fine for so many years no need to reinvent the wheel. I was just curious about them for endurance purposes mostly. Sorry for the non intended hijack
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