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Texas Winterization
Boat is kept in my garage. Just curious, being in the southern part of TX, for "winterization" I haul the boat to the ramp (2blocks) and start it about every 6 weeks or so and let it warm up. Put the prop in/out gear, forward and reverse, move the steering, etc, all at idle. Get to operating temp to open the thermostat. This winter schedule has kept me boating for years.
My question, is starting it each 6 weeks or so enough to keep the engine "fresh" for lack of a better word? Fresh, as in active/used, similar to in season use. Just looking for opinions.... Come on summer! Thx. 35 Outlaw - "OHANA" |
Personally I wouldn't bother with all the starting etc, fill the fuel tank, drain all the water and cover it up, unless you plan on running it over winter.
Just my 2 |
I agree. Especially sine you presumably have short winters/layup times
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ok, thanks guys. Yes, comparatively short layup periods. I have never drained the water. That was another post where folks felt, yes drain the engines. Those blue removable plugs are there for a reason to include at the back of the header rail for the 525efi engines. Will do that next weekend. Boat is just north of San Antonio, TX with the occasional 2 or 3 day stretch in the 20's. No reason for the water to be in there.....Thx.
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Draining is so easy it is worth it just for the peace of mind. Drained mine yesterday just so I wouldn't have any question that it is going to be okay.
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10 min to drain
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You should change all oils and filters especially all fuel filters and I would do fuel samples as well checking for traces of water. I would still winterize the complete fuel system. I would run the boat every 30 days instead of 45 days. It is best to keep fuel moving thru the system and re-oiling the top end of the engine whenever possible. We see alot of condensation in Texas from the vast temp changes one day from the next.
Two problems mainly I see first is water droplets in the fuel and corrosion formed under the distributor cap especially the HVS distributor cap because of condensation. Just saying |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4385410)
You should change all oils and filters especially all fuel filters and I would do fuel samples as well checking for traces of water. I would still winterize the complete fuel system. I would run the boat every 30 days instead of 45 days. It is best to keep fuel moving thru the system and re-oiling the top end of the engine whenever possible. We see alot of condensation in Texas from the vast temp changes one day from the next.
Two problems mainly I see first is water droplets in the fuel and corrosion formed under the distributor cap especially the HVS distributor cap because of condensation. Just saying You said it best BUP, this is the heart of what I was getting to! Just seems like good practice if conditions allow. I'm thinking of pulling that little fill screw out of the mechanical fuel pump and seeing how much lube comes out, if it smells like fuel, then replacing (somehow) with fresh gear lube. I have left the water in the water pump in the past in hopes it would keep the impeller more fresh, not dried out over a lay up period. Again, a function of our southern climate, harsh winter days in the low 30's... :) |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4385410)
You should change all oils and filters especially all fuel filters and I would do fuel samples as well checking for traces of water. I would still winterize the complete fuel system. I would run the boat every 30 days instead of 45 days. It is best to keep fuel moving thru the system and re-oiling the top end of the engine whenever possible. We see alot of condensation in Texas from the vast temp changes one day from the next.
Two problems mainly I see first is water droplets in the fuel and corrosion formed under the distributor cap especially the HVS distributor cap because of condensation. Just saying I havent started my boat in 8 months. Is that bad? |
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