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Bravo 1 steering slop
I found that the slop is not in the cable as I can move the out drive and steering wheel does not turn. Do I have to take the whole outdrive apart? I saw a kit u can get by cutting an area out then install a cover. Don't want to do that. Any other options? Thank you. Oh 1996 outdrive
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The slop comes from where the steering arm attaches to the steering pin and/or where the steering pin attaches to the gimble ring. Also hinge pin bushings and lower pin can add some slop if they are worn.
To do correctly, the engine needs to come out in order to get to the steering arm and pin hardware from in the boat without drilling from the outside. If the parts are worn you cannot reuse them. Will need new pin, steering arm, and gimble ring (or have it welded and remachined). JR Marine is who I used and were good. Watch his video on youtube. |
Thank you!!
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Check the tiller where the pin is for the steering ram. I have seen slop develop there too.
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I will! Thank u so much!!. Going to do the JR kit thing
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That kit only lets you tighten the tiller clamp, correct? There are several components involved between wheel and outdrive movement.
I think you need to do more research before cutting away when it may not do any good. How much play do you have? When you turn the wheel does the tiller move? Does the tiller move and drive stay stationary? Is there any play on lower pin? If the tiller arm and/or upper pin has worn tightening the bolt will not be a fix. If removing the motor is the show-stopper, consider going with external dual ram add-on. That wont fix upper or lower pin to bushing wear but will fix the tiller to pin wear and make a bushing/pin wear a more manageable problem. |
No not true. You remove the lower unit so u can replace all parts with stainless and new bushings. Yes the slop is in tiller arm and below. Seems the slop in the lower unit magnifies to the steering wheel. The R AND R is on you tube and I must say it is well done explains and shows the job. I have no doubt that I can make repair. Thanks for your input!!
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Great advise!!!
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When removing the drive, do NOT set it on your foot...and do NOT ask me how I know this....... but if doing it yourself, throw a piece of plywood or something on the cement, then crank up the trailer jack so the skeg is almost touching the wood. makes managing it much easier.
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Sounds like a plan. K I won't ask lmao. How heavy is the lower unit
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significantly heavier than an alpha... Im guessing around 110, 120 lbs.....its more awkward than anything...
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Sorry my error. Good luck
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Yes. Going to have to figure something out. Lash it up from above or something. I see some good prices for used bravo 1. People who have 100% satisfaction.
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No worries and thank so much for great advise!!!
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In the video he doesn't change the steering arm, but if there is play replace it. Just messing around I took my old steering arm and put it on the new pin in the vise and tightened it, still had play until the bolt snapped.
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Where in Oregon do you live/boat? (I am in Portland)
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Originally Posted by boating4me
(Post 4417363)
Where in Oregon do you live/boat? (I am in Portland)
Thanks for your reply!! |
Wyatt? did you have someone locally that did the work on your outdrive?
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Originally Posted by boating4me
(Post 4417661)
Wyatt? did you have someone locally that did the work on your outdrive?
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I seem to have slack in the helm on my '97 Baja. It seems to be a power assist set up with the cable actuating the ram inside the boat. There's some slop in the wheel before the cable even moves and everything on the back end seems snug enough. Any way to tighten the helm slack?
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Baja, I am having a similar issue, have someone wiggle the wheel and watch where the cable enters the power unit in the back.... It the cable housing and nut moving back and forth?
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I'm not near the boat for a few days, but as I remember the cable is tight in the rear. The slop is in the wheel before the cable even moves.
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My cable is tight too... However, where the cable screws into the power unit in the back is where I have movement. The cable has a female threaded collar (nut) that the is fully tight but the male threads that are part of the power steering unit move an inch or so when you wiggle wheel causing play. The entire unit is not moving, only the part with the male threads that the cable is threaded on to (again, the nut is fully tight)
Anyone have an idea what my issue is? Do I need a new power steering unit? Is there something that needs tightening on my current unit? |
You will never get rid of all the slop with a cable system, never. You need to go full hydraulic to have zero slop.
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