I agree with Mike Tkach - cable adjustment and after that dial in carb adjustments and idle adjustment

Well, if you dont come into the marina at 97 mph, the engines should have a chance to idle down. As an added bonus, you wont pizz off the blowboaters in the marina and they will stop throwing yogurt and granola at you.

Mine did that same thing, throttle adjustment.
See if you can push the throttle blades closed and if so put some more tension on the cables

or see if you can pull the throttle arm down with your fingers to bring idle rpm down while engine running - if it does then either cables need adjustment or you do not have free moving arms. Also unhook your throttle cable to see how free they move especially that last portion of movement to full return so you can get the correct idle speed .

Nah... Bring it in a little hot. Eventually the blowboaters will go somewhere else. Plus it's almost as good of entertainment as the boat launch on a busy day.

All bs aside looks like you got some good feedback. I'd start with checking all linkage and carb adjustments as well as throttle blade position at time. Cables stretch etc. No need to repeat everything already mentioned above rather just confirming I pretty much agree with most mentioned.

Just curious how many hours are on engines/carbs? Make sure both primary and secondary plates move freely. Like some have mentioned I have a feeling your throttle plates are not going back to desired position when warmed up.

Not likely since both engines are performing the same but I've seen metering block gaskets mispositioned throwing off idle circuitry.

Also what rpm when cold? Has this always been an issue? If you take your time and start process of elimination you'll get the problem solved. Without a doubt your Bravo drives will not happy if the problem persist. You don't wanna start a thread on "how to UNWELD cone clutches" or worse how to rebuild upper. Lol

Good stuff!

Engines have 50 hours and yes it's always done it. I appreciate all the ideas.

When they are in the fast idle warm condition disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor and see if extra pressure on carb arm brings the idle down. If it does it's a cable/control adjustment, if it doesn't it's a mixture issue try adding fuel since timing is locked out. Make sure no fuel is dripping from the boosters, at idle all fuel goes through the idle circuit. If fuel is dripping the power valves are bad or float level is high.

I had the same problem few years ago on my 540's,,, after checking all linkage , etc, to get it correct,
on my MSD distributors I went one step stronger on the distributor springs, use the black bushing, 36 degree total advance,, opened the rear butterflies to .018, then readjusted the idle screws, they now idle down to 900 rpm in neutral every time when hot.