|
Rod bearings after 9 years
3 Attachment(s)
So, I had to pull a piston after a darn valve train issue at the end of last summer. (partially my fault)
The piston and #3 exhaust valve got into a fight. Piston won but the valve put up a valiant fight. I pulled my original 420's out in 2006 and rebuilt them. These were the first high performance engines I had ever built. With the guidance of my head/engine builder and the use of his shop this is the what the crank and bearings look like after 9 years. Not too bad seeing that the first 6 years these engines were at anywhere between 5000-6500RPM's the majority of the time. Cruise RPM's were 4800 peak TQ 5200RPM and peak HP 6500RPM. [ATTACH=CONFIG]553246[/ATTACH] . [ATTACH=CONFIG]553247[/ATTACH] . [ATTACH=CONFIG]553248[/ATTACH] |
good for 9 more years,lol.you must have done a good job when it was assembled.
|
What are you using some alien space age bearings? That's like going to the moon and back with all the boating you do. Nice work! I bet you run a heavy clearances or change your oil frequently. Either way you've done well.
|
Mine have looked like that also after many hours on my 454's, I run loose clearances I think that REALLY helps that, clean oil also...
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4422831)
What are you using some alien space age bearings? That's like going to the moon and back with all the boating you do. Nice work! I bet you run a heavy clearances or change your oil frequently. Either way you've done well.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553249[/ATTACH] |
Rookie, instead of changing you oil at the beginning of every season, change when you put it away and make sure you start it and run it for 20 min (to circulate the new oil into all the lifters and such). This way the engine is stored with the best possible additive package your Mobil 1 can offer.
In the spring, just jump in and fire the motor up, no need to change the oil again. Ken |
Youre doing it wrong. Need to tighten those clearances up, and go with 5w20.
|
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4422983)
Youre doing it wrong. Need to tighten those clearances up, and go with 5w20.
|
How many hours in 9 years?
|
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4422988)
Yup, and run the engine cooling water at 200-210*F.:evilb:
|
Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4422995)
How many hours in 9 years?
|
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4422983)
Youre doing it wrong. Need to tighten those clearances up, and go with 5w20.
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4422988)
Yup, and run the engine cooling water at 200-210*F.:evilb:
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4423006)
For sure. Gotta get some heat in them, make more power too. :bong:
|
I'm looking to switch to 0w5 Wolf head.
And I do run Mobil 1 302 oil filters or Purolator Pure Ones. |
Awesome results. I wouldn't change a thing other than changing the oil at the end of the season.
|
Looks good. What happened to your valvetrain?
|
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4423044)
Looks good. What happened to your valvetrain?
|
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4423065)
I don't know exactly. I keep gaining lash on my cams. Rocker got loose, walked and bent a valve. (My neglect I heard it naking noise that day) I switched out 252/264 solid cams to ~235/241 hydraulic roller cams that I do run solids on. This particular engine just seems to beat the snout out of my valve train. Adjusting lash 3-4x a summer. My old solids I would check every summer and adjust a thou hear and there. I'm working with my head guy and I think I'm just going to throw in my old solid springs lightened up a little.
In a recent conversation with a cam grinder, he had advised against running that setup. He mentioned how alot of people assume that a hyd has easier lobes than a solid, when in fact it can be the opposite. His advice was if you wanna run a solid lifter in an endurance engine, run a solid roller endurance lobe profile. I was contemplating going to solid roller lifters to avoid the pitfalls of alot of the hyd lifter issues, but after talking with him, decided to stick with what i have. Did you notice any abnormal wear on the lobes, or valveseats Jason? |
I only spin them to 5600-5800 now, so maybe I'll just throw in a std set of Morels in and see what happens.
|
Never liked the stupid solid roller lifter on hyd roller cam deal anyway. Too little lash, which you need to do to make it relatively happy.
Nothing but a buzzword (from cam grinders/pickers) to look different. But, I'm the azzhole for going against it a bunch, some years back. LOL. Be gone with it and get proper lifters for the cam. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4423065)
I don't know exactly. I keep gaining lash on my cams. Rocker got loose, walked and bent a valve. (My neglect I heard it naking noise that day) I switched out 252/264 solid cams to ~235/241 hydraulic roller cams that I do run solids on. This particular engine just seems to beat the snout out of my valve train. Adjusting lash 3-4x a summer. My old solids I would check every summer and adjust a thou hear and there. I'm working with my head guy and I think I'm just going to throw in my old solid springs lightened up a little.
|
From another forum
anyone using sollid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam or even ever tried just wondering if it works or what the difference is. Any info would be great seeing as i have a good hydraulic roller cam i want to use and a new set of solid roller lifters sitting on the shelf There's no advantage to do this, but if you want to try, you need to understand the differences. A hydr lobe profile is designed to open the valve at .004"-.006" lifter rise, so if you're going to run mechanical lifters on it, you need to make sure the Hot Lash is set between .006" and .009" with a 1.5 or 1.6 rocker, or .007"-.110" with a 1.7 rocker. This will keep the opening and closing valve velocities at where they were designed to be. Most people think the opening and closing velocities on a hydr cam are milder then a mechanical cam, but that's not always the case. Some of the more aggressive hydr roller profiles have velocity/acceleration rates up to 3 times higher then similar sized mechanical roller cams, because they can rely on the dampening of the hydraulic lifters to control valve bounce. If you try and run one of these hydraulic profiles with mechanical lifters, it can actually be much harder on the valvetrain, and require more spring pressure then a comparable mechanical roller profile. Originally Posted by Horndog View Post On a solid roller set up, it is good to run a "tight lash" cam on vehicles that see plenty of street driving. The theory behind this that with the minimal lash, the valvetrain (cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, and valve stem tips) won't get pounded into submission because the lash (gap) between the roller tip of rocker arm and the valve stem tip is much smaller than a "true" solid roller cam. This is actually false. The reason the tighter lash is easier on the valvetrain, is because the velocity/acceleration is lower at the tighter lash point. If the cam is designed with a constant velocity lash ramp, the velocity/acceleration at the lash point won't change with the tighter lash, so it won't be any easier on the valvetrain. It's all about the velocity/acceleration rates at the point you lift the valve off the seat, and when you seat it back down. The amount of lash is irrelevant. If's like you were bouncing on a trampoline, and you hit your head on a 9 foot ceiling, compared to hitting your head on an 8 foot ceiling. The distance you traveled is irrelevant. The pain comes from the force you hit the ceiling with. |
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4423265)
From another forum
|
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4423174)
what are your on the seat&open pressures?
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4423265)
From another forum
|
That's right where I'm at with lash on my hd cams and same springs. I like to know when the lobe is up top the valve is all the way open. Got sick of lifter failure on an aggressive lobe. Ran that way on other engines for years with no trouble.
I know Jims not a real fan of hd lifters either. |
Competent machine work. Never Fails.
|
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4423077)
Did you notice any abnormal wear on the lobes, or valveseats Jason?
The lobes look great. Just witness marks. Nothing that presume wear or lifter bouncing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]553294[/ATTACH] . I pulled the valves out of cylinder 1 and it doesn't look sunk in. Intake looks great Exhaust has a bit of carbon build up. [ATTACH=CONFIG]553295[/ATTACH] . I pulled another cap to look at the bearing and it also looked good. The top brown is oil on the bearing that I didn't clean off. [ATTACH=CONFIG]553297[/ATTACH] . Also, I always was concerned about starting my engines after sitting all winter without priming them. Great film of oil still on crank and bearings. Will not worry about that again. Kind of surprised actually. [ATTACH=CONFIG]553296[/ATTACH] |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4423285)
That's right where I'm at with lash on my hd cams and same springs. I like to know when the lobe is up top the valve is all the way open. Got sick of lifter failure on an aggressive lobe. Ran that way on other engines for years with no trouble.
I know Jims not a real fan of hd lifters either. |
943's
That's to bad about your engine. You'll have it back and going in no time. Still amazed with your bearings and journals. People always think I'm anal when I build an engine cause I will only assm in a very clean environment and clean and reclean each and every piece. Going together for the first time and couple of runs is what I have found to be the worst on the rotating assm's and cylinder walls. At the same time I've seen guys throw them together like a lawn mower and last forever but makes no sense to not take every precaution during assm. I'd say yours is proof. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4422846)
I have no idea brand bearing, something Jim picked up for me. I'll mic it up later. I run them a little loose. Mobil 1 15w50 changed at the start of every summer. I only use maybe 1.5qts of oil for both engines a season. I do remember chucking the cranks up on Jim's lathe and polishing them up to 600 or 800 emery cloth,
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553249[/ATTACH] |
I have those in my builds as well. Just told Mike T this about 2 weeks ago. I really never hear anyone on the Marine side using ACL's. Just had to post.
|
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4423734)
I have those in my builds as well. Just told Mike T this about 2 weeks ago. I really never hear anyone on the Marine side using ACL's. Just had to post.
http://www.aftermarketnews.com/what-...cl-bearings-2/ http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-07-1...losure/6613578 They are Engine Pro race series bearings. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:48 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.