The problem with a probe is that it tells you that there is power there but not what or how much.

Power probe shows how much voltage. If it has + or - and has the ability to power the wire with 12v's or ground it.

So if you have a bad limit switch, will unplugging it enable the throttle controls? I'm trying to understand if they just need unplugged or if you need to close the circuit on the lines from the pump. My trim level is off and my limit is not functioning which prevents me from being able to use the throttle controls. Or, because they're both not functioning properly, are they both bad?

Just got a $700 quote (R&R, level/limit, bellow) to replace the level/limit switch for the one drive and I'm not overly eager to shell out coin for that.

Unplugging the limit switch inside the transom will enable the trim switch (if that wiring/switch is the problem however it will work the same as the trailer switch so be careful)

Cool. So as I understand it, thats what I was looking for. Would the fault limit switch cause the level switch to act wonky too?

Not just unplugging. You also then have to connect the two in the harness together so you are then bypassing the limit switch.

Yes a bad Limit Switch can make the trim switch appear to act wonky though in reality it's the limit switch causing the wonkyness while trimming. BTW some of those limit switches you can take apart and clean them up and make the work again.

I had a trim limit switch that was acting up intermittently for a few seasons till it eventually stopped working. You should have 2 black wires that are molded together that look like a “lamp cord” coming out of the back of your transom assembly inside your engine compartment. Chase those wires to either removable electrical connectors, or in my case I cut them off close to the drive pump and butt connected the two coming out of the drive pump together. Now my starboard drive has no more issues going up with either the switch that trims both drives together or the individual starboard switch on the dash. Drive trim limit switches are probably overkill. I know I could never trim my boat on plane high enough without the props cavitating before the limit switches came close to stopping the drives going up.

You all rock! Thanks for playing along with the word "wonky". I couldn't think of anything else that was fitting.

I found that the trim position has male and female but the trim limit has two females. Also, from reading, the trim limit should be headed over towards the trim pumps. I'll unplug them and make a connector to tie the two of them together. After I disconnect the trim limit I'm going to pull the trim position and make sure the hatch marks on the back side are positioned correctly and go through the tuning process for the gauge. If that doesn't work I went ahead and ordered the rotor assembly and I'll swap it out. The wiring is solid. I went through tracing that last year.

Oddly enough, there are about 230498234098234 of these threads on the inter webz. That's where I stumbled across the part number for the trim position rotor. Here it is if anyone ever needs it. Worth a shot for $17 and a little 2-4-C on the O-rings. My guess is the originals, as with many, don't have enough lube to seal it which allows water intrusion and ends up roasting the resistor plates.

805134A 4

If you tie them together you will not be able to trim up. You need an open circuit to bypass the limit switch. The indicator problem is probably a warn out trim sender