Offshoreonly.com

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)
-   General Q & A (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q-20/)
-   -   Antifreeze (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/33717-antifreeze.html)

Audiofn 09-26-2002 08:04 AM

Antifreeze
 
That is enough out of you Phantom!!!! :D:D I am wondering what everyone uses for antifreeze when they winterize. I have always used the car stuff from the local mechanic. I get the used stuff that he can not put back in cars and just put it in my winterizer tank. I hear that the pink stuff that you get from like Boat US does not really keep the block from freezing? With the automotive stuff in there I actually DO NOT drain the block. I just leave it in there and that way it will lubricate the seals and keep the block from rusting over the 5 1/2 winter months :(:(. Any thoughts?

Jon

birdog 09-26-2002 08:13 AM

Thats how I always do it. Never had a problem in 20 + yrs.

formula31 09-26-2002 08:35 AM

Me too. In spring I drain them and collect the stuff into the left over gallon jugs and use it again next year.

Gary Anderson 09-26-2002 10:13 AM

The pink stuff freezes. It just does not expand. You also need to get most of the water out if you used it.
I've always used the automotive stuff. That include for -30 degree Minnesota winters.
Gary

Sacandaga 09-26-2002 10:54 AM

I've gone round and round on this subject. -50 Pink a/f has a freeze point of +12 degrees, and burst protection (for a copper pipe or engine block) of -50. It will slush at freeze point, but is safe. It must be used full strength, with no water (drain everything first) to be effective. You could always use -100, but that is about $8 a gallon versus $3. Bottom line, there are many different methods and opinions on winterizing, and which a/f to use. If you do use the pink stuff, I would buy a propel gyl. tester to test the stuff first. Have fun.

bn 09-26-2002 11:02 AM

Man, I hate this subject.:(

Can anyone tell me how many gallons of antifreeze are needed to winterize a BB (454)? I was going to put it in a 5 gallon bucket and run it through with the muffs on the drives.

blown formula 09-26-2002 11:40 AM

I would usually run about 8-10 gal. of pink stuff (just to be sure!) thru the engine after draining it. But I also had an intercooler to protect.....
$30.00 per winter for a safe block & coolers is cheap enough.... this year goint to be double for twins:D :D

Smitty 09-26-2002 11:41 AM

Here's what I do:
1. Buy four gallons of antifreeze from parts store
2. Get two 5 gallon pails
3. Dump one gallon in and then add 1 gallon of water- do this twice.
4. Same thing again in other bucket
5. You now have eight gallons of 50/50 mix
6. Hook up muffs to drive, start boat and run til you suck both pails empty
7. Park it and forget it til spring.

P.S. This is the LAST step in winterizing. Make sure you change oil, fog motor,stabilize gas, etc before installing A/F mix.

formula31 09-26-2002 12:07 PM

Slightly different procedure. This way I dont have to worry about water pockets or thermostat.

Drain blocks and manifolds and reclose
Remove suction hose from elbow on inner transom plate and bring hose up as high as you can.
Attach funnel (big) to hose.
Fill funnel with AF while cranking engine, or at idle(remote starter)until it comes out back.
Pull sparkplugs, squirt oil in cylinders and crank over and reinstall plugs.

ThirdBird 09-26-2002 12:37 PM

Hey Bigwave, you forgot the most important step, the engines must be up to operating temperature (thermostats open) before using this procedure. Otherwise, the block does not receive any antifreeze...........not good!!!!

I used to do the muff thing you are talking about but I would lay awake at night in the middle of January in Upstate New York wondering if my concetration was good...............all I could here in my head was the telltale "tink" of cast iron fracturing:eek:

I don't do it anymore, just drain everything real good, remembering to probe the holes, then pour a little antifreeze in the open hoses just to make myself feel better. Draining completely is the best procedure for me, I rest easier!!:rolleyes:

Smitty 09-26-2002 03:11 PM

Thirdbird,
You are absolutely correct!! I just forgot to type it in. Thanks.

I would hope that whoever attempts to do this ran the engine long enough before changing oil to get it hot, then added stabilizer to gas, then ran it more to fog it.

It should definitely be hot by then I would hope.
I have done it this way for 12 years in a row and where I live it can get down to 20 below and I have never had a problem yet.

ThirdBird 09-26-2002 03:17 PM

Yeah, your right Big, people should know. But.......just in case, I thought I would mention it. No offense intended toward your directions buddy:D

blown formula 09-26-2002 04:18 PM

*** just a thought !!!
If you add stabilizer (as you should), you should do so BEFORE the boat is pulled to fully mix in the tank and fuel system. (lift boats)

stevel 09-26-2002 04:54 PM

What is the easiest way to pull the thermostat? Do you pull the cover off of the top or remove the whole casting and remove from the bottom of the housing?

timucin 09-26-2002 05:16 PM

I rebuilt or modify engines every season thats why I dont have such a problem...engine stays in pieces for all winter..

ursus 09-26-2002 06:48 PM

This is Mercs Reco'ed fogging procedure for EFI engines ( Not Carburated)
 
Just thot Id add this while were talking about this most saddest of subjects :( (putting boat away for winter) :(

Fogging Mixture :

In a 6 US gal (23 L) remote outboard fuel tank, mix:

5 US gal (19 L) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline.

64 fl oz. (1.89 L) Mercury or Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard oil.

5 fl oz. (150 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer, OR 1 fl oz. (30 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate.

1. Disconnect and plug boat’s fuel line from Water Separating Fuel Filter inlet.

2. Connect remote outboard fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the inlet of the Water Separating Fuel Filter.

3. a. Cool Fuel models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
b. VST models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 10 minutes.

4. After specified running time is complete, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut engine
off.

P.S. don't skip the stabilizer, it can/does lead to stuck injectors in the spring

cuda 09-26-2002 06:58 PM

Re: Antifreeze
 

Originally posted by Audiofn
[B over the 5 1/2 winter months :(:(. Any thoughts?

Jon [/B]
Damn! That 5 1/2 month statement sent a chill up my spine. No pun intended.

I really do feel for our northern brethren. It must be like going to a funeral that you know is soon, and having to do it every year.:(

Tejas Raz 09-26-2002 09:06 PM


It must be like going to a funeral that you know is soon, and having to do it every year.
Man, I grieve for you guys up there. Thank god there's OSO to help ya'll keep your sanity.

I do the ear muff anti-freeze thing too. Run for 10 min. or so. I want to feel hot water out the tips. Hook up muff with the garden type quick disconnects and have a cut-off gallon jug with the twisty type cut-off spout. Hang it off the swim platform full of my a/f mix. When hot, yank the water hose off, plug in the jug, twist the spout to start pickling. 3 gallons does a small block. Soon as I seen a good green flow from the tips. Kill the ignition. Done.

As an added precaution, I also put plastic freezer wrap over my prop outlet and exhaust tips with bungies to keep out cold air. Put the plug in, drop a 60 watt drop light below the oil pan and when it gets real cold, plug it in. I like insurance.

You guys who've been doing this for a long time in the far cold north make me feel better. We don't go below zero down here, but we do see the teens a few times every year. The good part... 5 days after a freeze, it may be 70 out. I'm going to the lake! Just pickle again when it's going to get cold again. In 3 years, I've only missed 2 months when I couldn't get in the water. Love it.

Scott

Steve 1 09-26-2002 09:47 PM

On long term storage We used to Lift the valve covers and back off the rockers on the Cylinders that had valves open that sealed the engine and helped the springs a little .

Along with the antifreeze trick

Bill272 09-26-2002 10:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally posted by Bigwavz
P.S. This is the LAST step in winterizing. Make sure you change oil, fog motor,stabilize gas, etc before installing A/F mix.
One more small point. If you fog the motor before running it to add the a/f mix, you will burn the fogging oil off the cylinders. After changing the oil and stabilizing the gas, I run the A/F in through the muffs (with the engine fully hot). When the A/F is almost gone, I squirt the fogging oil into the carb and shut it down.

I use a kit from Camco that works like the 5 gallon bucket idea. It has a T-connector that lets you run water to get it up to operating temp, then shut off the hose and open up the A/F without missing a beat. The only problem is the valve was too restrictive and my engines would overheat before the A/F was all sucked into the engine. I got a few parts from the hardware store to replace the valve and it's worked great for the past 2 years. Looks like this...

ROGMAN 09-27-2002 10:42 AM

Anti Freeze through the ears / Coat engine down with WD-40 / Clean Bilge area / Install Small space heater as safety precaution. I sleep good during those cold winter nights!!!! Space heater also helps keep the upholstery like new.

Jon

Audiofn 09-27-2002 12:02 PM

Bill272: I had that same problem with mine. I opened up the vent hole more and it solved my problem. I am suprised that I am not the only one that does the antifreeze deal. I feel bad for the environmental damage that I am doing however loosing my engines would be worse.

Jon

Bill272 09-27-2002 12:26 PM

I used Sierra environmentally safe engine A/F from an auto parts store last year and cut it to protect to -50. I'll probably use less and cut it more this year because I'm putting the boat into heated storage, but I don't want to risk it if they have a power failure. I also don't trust the pink stuff (and it kills my grass in the spring), but have used it in my previous boats with no problems.

Audiofn 09-27-2002 02:09 PM

Hey Bill that stuff is bad for the environment as well. Ya have to read the label ;) ;) ;)

Bill272 09-27-2002 04:03 PM

Now why did you have to go and tell me that? After searching the web, I did find some articles saying it isn't truly "safe", but it is safer. I'll deny ever hearing this...

Audiofn 09-27-2002 05:14 PM

:D:D:D;) ;) ;)

Steve 1 09-27-2002 05:23 PM

If you are worried about toxicity why not use Propylene glycol instead !

:D

Interceptor 09-29-2002 05:33 PM

Bill,
Where are you storing at this winter ?

Bill272 09-29-2002 11:42 PM

Check your email Ed.

Sydwayz 10-01-2002 12:16 AM

I have a buddy at Jiffy Lube. They have that pressurized Anti-freeze fitting on the back of the building. I plan to adapt that baby to run right into my flush fitting on the swim platform, and boat all year round!! Two big pipes over my exhaust into a 55 gallon drum will collect all the blow-off.

Aqua-Holic 10-02-2002 02:33 PM

Bill,
Could you let me know what Camco calls the unit that you have. I have looked all over their site, but have come up empty handed. I am going to do my own winterization this year, so I am trying to accumulate everything that I will need now!



Matt

blown formula 10-03-2002 09:16 AM

did you go to the correct site.....there are many CAMCO's. The correct site is www.camco-mfg-online.com/camco-mfg-online/
search for the D-I-Y Marine antifreeze kit. It may be listed along with the BAN FROST -50 degree a/f or the BAN FROST -100 degree a/f.......a good listing of product. :)

Bill272 10-03-2002 09:26 AM

I think I bought mine at Boatus or West. You can also find it here, second item on the page.

http://www.boatfix.com/bypage.asp?page=632


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:36 PM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.