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1 2 NV 05-08-2016 08:03 PM

MEFI 1 350 issues
 
ive sifted through the net and came up with very little so i figured i would post here. i have a marine power MEFI 1 MPFI 350 and last year it had a problem with getting HORRIBLE fuel economy. i ended up sending the ECU to marine power after several talks with them for a reflash. seems the problem persists as i can see black smoke coming out the ass end at idle. this is only the second time ive had it out since the reflash. the first time it ran perfect and started perfect.
also yesterday while it was warmed up i tried to fire it up and it would not start. at first it fired then idled very erratically and died. i finally did get it to start with alot of frustration. we were heading back to the dock anyways so we went home. anyone have some definitive answers? i could just throw money at it and replace all sensors but im hoping to avoid that.
i saw in some other forum where a member said the IAC could cause the horrible fuel economy but could not find any other good forum info besides that. every other place said TPS, MAP, bad injectors, and vacuum leaks. which is pretty much everything but fixing the problem.

oconnor marine 05-09-2016 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4436650)
ive sifted through the net and came up with very little so i figured i would post here. i have a marine power MEFI 1 MPFI 350 and last year it had a problem with getting HORRIBLE fuel economy. i ended up sending the ECU to marine power after several talks with them for a reflash. seems the problem persists as i can see black smoke coming out the ass end at idle. this is only the second time ive had it out since the reflash. the first time it ran perfect and started perfect.
also yesterday while it was warmed up i tried to fire it up and it would not start. at first it fired then idled very erratically and died. i finally did get it to start with alot of frustration. we were heading back to the dock anyways so we went home. anyone have some definitive answers? i could just throw money at it and replace all sensors but im hoping to avoid that.
i saw in some other forum where a member said the IAC could cause the horrible fuel economy but could not find any other good forum info besides that. every other place said TPS, MAP, bad injectors, and vacuum leaks. which is pretty much everything but fixing the problem.

just a shot here, have you checked the fuel in the tank for contaminants, change the fuel water separator filters?
cleaned the injectors?

Trash 05-09-2016 10:56 AM


i have a marine power MEFI 1 MPFI 350 and last year it had a problem with getting HORRIBLE fuel economy.
What do you mean by horrible? What was your before and after comparison data so we can all start from the same baseline?


i ended up sending the ECU to marine power after several talks with them for a reflash
I wish you had posted first. THE LAST thing I would have done is a reflash. In fact I never would have done one. MEFI 1s are very robust (simple, yet robust).


seems the problem persists as i can see black smoke coming out the ass end at idle.
The fact you have black smoke and poor fuel economy obviously points towards a fuel issue, and my 90% guess is you have an injector stuck open, or at least not fully closing. BEFORE you do anything else remove the injectors and get them cleaned and flow tested. I would lay money that's where your problem is. Has the boat been sitting for a while?

It is not the TPS and I have doubts the MAP sensor is bad. Vacuum leaks cause high idle problems not rich conditions to the extent you are seeing. If you can get a voltmeter read the TPS voltage output with Key On, Engine Off. It should be a smooth 5 volt sweep from idle (approx zero volts) to WOT reading of about 4.9X volts DC as you move the throttle. Having said that I doubt its your problem.

BUP 05-09-2016 11:04 AM

Fuel pressure readings ??? , fuel regulator, stuck open injector(s), bad map sensor, problem of air restriction - And how dirty is your flame arrestor - when was the last time you cleaned It completely, can you see day lite thru it ???

Reflash of ECM ???? what tune ??? your problem ???

How well or not does this engine run and idle and power up ???

Scan the engine and note all parameters, does all look good there, any fault codes ???

, Ignition system producing correct amount of spark to lite the fuel mixture in the combustion chambers??? Battery voltage weak ???

Last time for a complete tune up - cap - rotor, spark plugs and wires and coil ???

Spark plugs gaped correctly ??? correct spark plugs ???

BUP 05-09-2016 11:08 AM

bad MAP can cause very rich conditions.

Steve H 05-09-2016 12:22 PM

I would suggest getting it flashed again, back to OEM. Then start looking for the for the real issue: fuel pressure, injector, CTS, etc.

1 2 NV 05-09-2016 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by oconnor marine (Post 4436816)
just a shot here, have you checked the fuel in the tank for contaminants, change the fuel water separator filters?
cleaned the injectors?

it has a new fuel water separator on it but the injectors have not been cleaned.


Originally Posted by Trash (Post 4436837)
What do you mean by horrible? What was your before and after comparison data so we can all start from the same baseline?



I wish you had posted first. THE LAST thing I would have done is a reflash. In fact I never would have done one. MEFI 1s are very robust (simple, yet robust).



The fact you have black smoke and poor fuel economy obviously points towards a fuel issue, and my 90% guess is you have an injector stuck open, or at least not fully closing. BEFORE you do anything else remove the injectors and get them cleaned and flow tested. I would lay money that's where your problem is. Has the boat been sitting for a while?

It is not the TPS and I have doubts the MAP sensor is bad. Vacuum leaks cause high idle problems not rich conditions to the extent you are seeing. If you can get a voltmeter read the TPS voltage output with Key On, Engine Off. It should be a smooth 5 volt sweep from idle (approx zero volts) to WOT reading of about 4.9X volts DC as you move the throttle. Having said that I doubt its your problem.

horrible meaning i should easily have gotten 40 more miles out of the tank of gas i had. as it was i literally barely got the boat restarted and onto the trailer. i was damn lucky to make it back.
i guess i should have been more clear. the reflash was more of an "update". i assumed it was on the original program from whenever it was produced. as with everything electronic firmware and new programs become available. i figured it was a good idea to do.
this is a new to me replacement motor that came out of another running boat. so far is hasnt burnt a drop of oil. i will look into where i can take my injectors to have them cleaned and patterned.
i just happened to have a voltmeter and know how to use it. i will check out the TPS.


Originally Posted by BUP (Post 4436845)
Fuel pressure readings ??? , fuel regulator, stuck open injector(s), bad map sensor, problem of air restriction - And how dirty is your flame arrestor - when was the last time you cleaned It completely, can you see day lite thru it ???

Reflash of ECM ???? what tune ??? your problem ???

How well or not does this engine run and idle and power up ???

Scan the engine and note all parameters, does all look good there, any fault codes ???

, Ignition system producing correct amount of spark to lite the fuel mixture in the combustion chambers??? Battery voltage weak ???

Last time for a complete tune up - cap - rotor, spark plugs and wires and coil ???

Spark plugs gaped correctly ??? correct spark plugs ???

i have a FP guage that i need to install. just need a longer "nipple" to make it work. so as of now i dont have a fuel pressure reading for you guys. i will look into getting that done over the weekend.
the flame arrestor doesnt look terribly dirty but thats an easy thing to clean. i will do that as to eliminate any issues with it.
the engine ran smooth until this start up issue on saturday. before the "update" to the ECU i felt it was slightly sluggish. before i fired it up for the first time i did all the basics. new cap, rotor, plugs (proper ones installed and gapped correctly) and wires.
im assuming batteries are good. i have dual batteries and they are just a couple years old. they crank the engine over quickly. does not appear to have any ampacity issues.

thanks for all the replies guys. it is much appreciated.

oconnor marine 05-10-2016 05:10 AM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4437153)
it has a new fuel water separator on it but the injectors have not been cleaned.



horrible meaning i should easily have gotten 40 more miles out of the tank of gas i had. as it was i literally barely got the boat restarted and onto the trailer. i was damn lucky to make it back.
i guess i should have been more clear. the reflash was more of an "update". i assumed it was on the original program from whenever it was produced. as with everything electronic firmware and new programs become available. i figured it was a good idea to do.
this is a new to me replacement motor that came out of another running boat. so far is hasnt burnt a drop of oil. i will look into where i can take my injectors to have them cleaned and patterned.
i just happened to have a voltmeter and know how to use it. i will check out the TPS.



i have a FP guage that i need to install. just need a longer "nipple" to make it work. so as of now i dont have a fuel pressure reading for you guys. i will look into getting that done over the weekend.
the flame arrestor doesnt look terribly dirty but thats an easy thing to clean. i will do that as to eliminate any issues with it.
the engine ran smooth until this start up issue on saturday. before the "update" to the ECU i felt it was slightly sluggish. before i fired it up for the first time i did all the basics. new cap, rotor, plugs (proper ones installed and gapped correctly) and wires.
im assuming batteries are good. i have dual batteries and they are just a couple years old. they crank the engine over quickly. does not appear to have any ampacity issues.

thanks for all the replies guys. it is much appreciated.

you could try taking off the fuel water seperator filter and fill it with techron black bottle, run the motor and see if that helps clear it up. if it does then i would say its the injectors. and if thats the case maybe remove them and send them to BUP.

1 2 NV 05-12-2016 09:41 PM

i did some prssure testing today with a rent a pressure tester. i jumped the high pressure pump and left the key in the "on" position as to activate the low pressure pump as i turned the battery selector switch off and on. it seemed to run about 42 psi which seems about right but i thought i read on marine powers website for the mefi 1 that the fuel pressure should be in the 30s. ill go look again.
yesterday just for good measure i cleaned the spark arrester too. ill keep updating. i might take the boat to the river this weekend.

1 2 NV 05-17-2016 05:45 PM

i should also note that i cannot fire up the motor unless the pump is in water. so i have no fuel pressure readings while the engine has vacuum on it.

mike tkach 05-17-2016 06:04 PM

black smoke does not always indicate a fuel problem.a weak ignition that can,t ignite the fuel could be the issue.

SB 05-17-2016 06:12 PM

I agree Mike. Famous one is people using standard reach plugs plugs (MR43T's and MR43TS's) in a Vortec head, which takes a longer reach plug. (MR43LTS)

1 2 NV 05-18-2016 07:38 AM

that wouldnt account for the over fueling though right?

SB 05-18-2016 07:55 AM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4440174)
i should also note that i cannot fire up the motor unless the pump is in water. so i have no fuel pressure readings while the engine has vacuum on it.

You can use a vacuum pump like a mityvac or equivalent.

1 2 NV 07-03-2016 06:02 PM

well its been awhile since i did any troubleshooting. the FP reads 42psi while the engine is running. i was too busy to check the FP when the boat was going down the river as it was extemely rough and the wife was tending to the little guy who was scared of the river conditions. the only thing to note right now is by the time i got home the FP was almost to 0. it bleeds fuel pressure off slowly.
so at this point im guessing its the MAP sensor.

1 2 NV 10-16-2016 12:57 PM

one other thing that came up. someone ran their identical engine to mine with a diacom on it. until it heated up to 165 he was burning 9.8 gal hr according to the diacom. after it reached that temp the fuel usage went down significantly to 8.3 gal hr. most people i know burn 7-8 gal an hr with a 350.
somebody also mentioned it might be the temp sensor. ill have to get a different meter to read the resistance in it.

Trash 10-16-2016 01:37 PM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4491974)
one other thing that came up. someone ran their identical engine to mine with a diacom on it. until it heated up to 165 he was burning 9.8 gal hr according to the diacom. after it reached that temp the fuel usage went down significantly to 8.3 gal hr. most people i know burn 7-8 gal an hr with a 350.
somebody also mentioned it might be the temp sensor. ill have to get a different meter to read the resistance in it.

The reduction in fuel use as the motor is warmed up is normal. There is a table in the MEFI 1 that modifies the Base Pulse Width (BPW, fuel injector time on) vs Engine Coolant Temp (ECT). It is effectively an electronic choke. Richer during cold ECT conditions, leaner while at operating temps.

1 2 NV 10-16-2016 01:55 PM

i wish this thing would get figured out. i havent been using the boat much so its my fault. its a pain to haul it to the river so i can test any idea that might come up.

so ive read through the troubleshooting manuals quite a bit. to set timing it says you need the DLC tool. im betting that the DLC jumpers 1 connectors together to set base timing. does anyone know which wires need jumpered? i dont have a DLC.

Trash 10-17-2016 11:20 PM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4491985)
i wish this thing would get figured out. i havent been using the boat much so its my fault. its a pain to haul it to the river so i can test any idea that might come up.

so ive read through the troubleshooting manuals quite a bit. to set timing it says you need the DLC tool. im betting that the DLC jumpers 1 connectors together to set base timing. does anyone know which wires need jumpered? i dont have a DLC.

The DLC is simply the Data Link Connector located near the MEFI 1. You can jumper the A / B ports to get the ECM into base timing mode. You can do this with a paper clip.

Start the motor, bring the rpm up just a little (1000-1200), jumper the A / B pin outs on the DLC connector and you will be in base timing mode. Put a timing light on the balancer and adjust the distributor until you get 8 deg BTDC. Lock down the distributor and remove the DLC jumper. Base timing is now set.

The motor may run goofy or rough during base timing mode. Don't freak out, this is normal. It may stall when you remove the jumper. That's ok too. Simply key off and restart.

That's the Cliff notes version. Others may chime in if I've forgotten something.

1 2 NV 10-18-2016 01:41 AM

thats excellent info trash. thanks for that info. im planning on hitting the river in the next week or 2 and will certainly time the motor.

1 2 NV 11-14-2016 01:53 PM

i got a chance to test some of the basic sensors. tps voltage sweep seemed normal. there was a spot though that kept OL on the meter. it would only do it during a full sweep. just about 4V. if i tried to pinpoint exactly where it never lost signal. the ECT sensor was about 600ohms off. i replaced that. voltage on the map sensor was good but thats while it sat. not during run time.
i think i have access to a diacom this weekend if i can make contact with the guy. i might also be able to borrow a computer from another guy that has the same era 350. im wondering if my computer got reprogrammed with the wrong map. maybe from a 8.1 or something. even then the fuel burn seems excessive.

after that im going to consider repinning my ECU to utilize the mefi4b i have. we will see what the results are.

1 2 NV 11-21-2016 03:36 PM

Well, I got the boat on the water. I timed it and it ran great. 3800 on the tach. Still seemed a hair sluggish. I'm betting the 3800 was more due to the cold as balls temp more than anything else.
I was able to get a hold of another impeller though. It just happened to be the next size down. Threw it on and ran it on Saturday to 4000. Holeshot didn't seem to change much if any.
The only issue I have left is the fuel burn. I didn't get enough hrs on the meter but I'll continue to chip away at the problem. Its possible the change out of the ECT might have fixed the problem.
I was also able to consult with another guy who has this exact same era motor. My low rpm is right on par with what his boat with twins produces. I'm wondering if the rudimentary 1st gen fuel injection system and possibly a lower up motor might e the culprits. Newer 350 efi motors are rated 325-330 typically.
Thanks to everyone that has helped me out along the way. The advice given was greatly appreciated.

Trash 11-23-2016 02:06 PM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4502882)
Well, I got the boat on the water. I timed it and it ran great. 3800 on the tach. Still seemed a hair sluggish. I'm betting the 3800 was more due to the cold as balls temp more than anything else.
I was able to get a hold of another impeller though. It just happened to be the next size down. Threw it on and ran it on Saturday to 4000. Holeshot didn't seem to change much if any.
The only issue I have left is the fuel burn. I didn't get enough hrs on the meter but I'll continue to chip away at the problem. Its possible the change out of the ECT might have fixed the problem.
I was also able to consult with another guy who has this exact same era motor. My low rpm is right on par with what his boat with twins produces. I'm wondering if the rudimentary 1st gen fuel injection system and possibly a lower up motor might e the culprits. Newer 350 efi motors are rated 325-330 typically.
Thanks to everyone that has helped me out along the way. The advice given was greatly appreciated.

The early Gen (i.e. MEFI 1) isn't holding your rpm back. It is likely something else.

1 2 NV 11-23-2016 02:30 PM

Thanks again for the reply trash.

I may or may not have stated the motor is 2nd hand to me and had lots of hours on it. I'm just glad to have scored it for such a price. It works for now. I still plan on selling the boat once springtime comes.

AllDodge 11-23-2016 04:16 PM

With only 3800 rpm check your knock sensor, you should be into the 4800 range


Either that or your over proped

1 2 NV 11-23-2016 04:28 PM

We typically impeller the boats to around 4000. The exception is the high powered ones with lsa and raptor motors. They run around 4500.

AllDodge 11-23-2016 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by 1 2 NV (Post 4503577)
We typically impeller the boats .

How do you impeller a boat?

SB 11-23-2016 05:04 PM

Earlier he mentioned Marine Power, so I'm assuming he has a jet boat. I know, assuming will mean i ended up being an azz assuming. LOL.

1 2 NV 11-23-2016 05:16 PM

The manufacturers generally impeller a boat for good fuel economy, holeshot and load carrying capacity.
Which is probably counter productive to the general consensus of OSO.com
My boat new topped out at 45mph. After taking a bump and getting my hull repaired it went 42mph. However, it packs a hell of a load, runs in inches of water and makes class V rapids it's *****.

AllDodge 11-23-2016 05:22 PM

OK got that also and understand not propping (impellering) for max rpm. Running rapids the impeller can grab air easy and rpms will jump. Only issue with running lower rpm's is your lugging the motor and more fuel use.

Has anyone done a compression test?

1 2 NV 11-23-2016 06:04 PM

I have not. This is still on my to do list


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