Pertronix ignitor III ignition opinions
 

Anyone using Pertronix ignitions on small block chevy's? I want to get away from the thunderbolt IV I currently have on my new 383. I'd like to be able to set up with more base timing and less mechanical advance. With the Merc. V8-22 module I have right now I can only get away with 9 degrees base and it would start and idle a lot better with 13. Also wondering what coil, etc. others are running. Any particular place recommended to purchase from as well would be helpful. Thanks.

Switch to a V6 module. Gives about 10* of advance on a V8 engine with full advance by 2000rpms.

That or a V8-HP will give 20* with full advance at 3000rpms.

Curios as to why are you only running 31* of total advance???? Vortec heads????

That's about all this combo needs. 383 with old school milled, ported, and flowed 882 iron heads with flat tops (-6cc reliefs) 10.02:1 compression Comp xtreme marine 262H hyd. flat tappet cam with 1.5 roller rockers, and edelbrock 600 cfm carb. On the street I'd run more or if I was running past 5000 rpm, but in a boat that's the sweet spot with this one. I like the advance limiters in the pertronix setup and using the heavy springs I can bring it in slow enough to get past the heavy load of getting up on plane before full total advance to avoid detonation. I'm sure a D.U.I. or trying different Merc. modules would work great as well, I just like the ability to fine tune myself with this setup.

pertronix 2&3 are fairly cheep,they look good but the electronics are junk.it,s not will it fail,it,s when will it fail.

I have a pertronix distributor with igniter 2 in a small block. I got it because I need more initial timing without increasing total. But that was back before I knew about the v6 module for the thunderbolt iv. Knowing that now, I would go that route, and have with a friends engine.

I have one in an automotive application. (Big block Chrysler 440)
It has been good for the past few years. I used it to replace the points and condenser and maintain a stock appearance.

That said, I'd go the thunderbolt V6 route.

through the years i have installed a lot of the kits to eliminate the points with no returns with problems.the failures i have seen is when you install their complete dist.the igniter 2 in the 351 engines it the ski boats, seem to fail a lot for some reason.

Is there a better coil to run with the thunderbolt system then if the pertronix is not reliable? My automotive experience tells me there are much better ignition systems than thunderbolt, especially on startup spark strength, but trying to keep a marine rated system. If I stay with the thunderbolt, I'd like to maximize its ability.

If you want to realize your dreams, there is a system that works with the Tbolt IV. Few threads around here of it. Some members use it.

Scroll down to the marine system: http://www.daytona-sensors.com/CD1.html

Thanks, SB. Not a bad price if it's reliable. Anyone running this have feedback on what they were able to open up plug gaps too? I'm going to email and see what stock timing curves it supports.

Read my post #11 here, and click on the .pdf
http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showpos...9&postcount=11

These are the same built in advances on the Daytona Box, as they made the Crane Box, and then Crane stopped selling them as they went bankrpt back then and then Daytona sold direct and added a ton more features. A few places sell the box $50.00 cheaper. Don't forget to get the phased Thunderbolt rotor from them if you don't want to do it yourself. They ust charge $25 for the rotor phased.

I ran the HI-6M and you can pretty much run what ever gap you want, but why ? Anything over .040" and you really start chewing your cap, rotors, and wires. The larger you go, the faster this will happen...it's ust what happens when you crank up the juice on any system by increasing gaps.

SB - A larger gap allows a slightly leaner mixture and less likely to experience knock. I'm not talking .055" I'm talking .045-.048 which Thunderbolt wont do unless you want a mercruiser row boat, (too weak of spark voltage while cranking to start at this gap). Pre-ignition is the number one problem with boat engines pushing for performance, and increasing spark gap to a point is one of the keys to prevent it. A cap and wires periodically are a lot cheaper than pistons and blocks in my opinion.

Is this a wild motor? 14:1 compression?

He's going Borgie on ignitions I'm afraid.

Normal SBC build.

Nice SB...

No just a little over 10.1 Full disclosure as a teenager I used to build 13 cu. in 5hp briggs & stratton flatheads that turned 11,000 rpm and produced 25+ hp. To keep something like that together you take care of every detail. No reason not to produce perfection in every build.

Go carts I assume. Been there done that. Those alcohol builds are a riot. I'm running the pertronics on my 496's. They either came with or I ordered tune kit with weights and springs. Nice thing about them is once you dial them in to your application your done and not chasing ignition problems.