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Old 06-28-2016, 07:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BUP
It does not matter if the WATER CIRC PUMP front of the engine is a marine unit because alot people who never pull that hose to drain the water out completely when winterizing can end up cracking and or breaking off the METAL PORTION of the impeller inside the water circ pump. Have seen it plenty of times from improper winterization or owners who do not winterize. Also saltwater kills these pumps down the road.

I am NOT talking about the rubber impeller for inside a water pump impelling housing - I am talking about the water circ pump on the front side of the engine. It is called an IMPELLER AS well, it is metal.

Ok I get what your saying now and actually hope your right, I winterize by taking out the thermostat and pump 6 gallons of pink stuff through the engine then i remove the cooling line on the power steering cooler and make sure its running pink. I can't pull the recirculating pump off until tomorrow so i ordered this http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13357...th-bypass.aspx (been wanting one anyway) They said it was plug and play , anyone know if there are taps for the temp sensors in the t-stat housings on these ?
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:46 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by professor
Ok I get what your saying now and actually hope your right, I winterize by taking out the thermostat and pump 6 gallons of pink stuff through the engine then i remove the cooling line on the power steering cooler and make sure its running pink. I can't pull the recirculating pump off until tomorrow so i ordered this http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13357...th-bypass.aspx (been wanting one anyway) They said it was plug and play , anyone know if there are taps for the temp sensors in the t-stat housings on these ?
Lots of people are running these, but a lot of them had to add water bypass valves and dumps for the extra water flow. These can also create headaches with hot spots on the heads, etc. Set up right they work well, and clean up the front of the engine. On a stock setup (no supercharger), I prefer to just run a circ pump myself. Do a search on this forum for those who have had issues with them. Probably much simpler to simply pull your circ pump and open it up to check it. There are several aftermarket companies that make replacement marine circ pumps, or you can probably find a good used one from someone who has installed one of the kits that you mentioned.
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by professor
Ok I get what your saying now and actually hope your right, I winterize by taking out the thermostat and pump 6 gallons of pink stuff through the engine then i remove the cooling line on the power steering cooler and make sure its running pink. I can't pull the recirculating pump off until tomorrow so i ordered this http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13357...th-bypass.aspx (been wanting one anyway) They said it was plug and play , anyone know if there are taps for the temp sensors in the t-stat housings on these ?
You are going backwards by doing this and may present yourself with more issues. Oil temp, water psi, and the fact a lot of these the bypass puts too much cold water on back side of tstat and doesn't let it open.

Ck your recirc pump and if it needs replacing, replace it, and go enjoy the water.,
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:29 PM
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^^^^ Sound advice right here from a guy who knows... ^^^^
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Old 06-29-2016, 09:33 PM
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Default its too late

Originally Posted by Budman II
^^^^ Sound advice right here from a guy who knows... ^^^^

Too late , this is the second re-circ pump that has given me issues , I think the pulleys were messed up causing the bearings to get wiped out, it looks like the pulley was rubbing the harmonic balancer pulley. As far as hot spots in the heads and the proper flow , I think running restricters instead of a thermostat may help some. I know a lot of guys running them that have never had a problem. I put a 110 amp1 wire alternator in while i was at the whole mess.




Last edited by professor; 06-29-2016 at 10:18 PM.
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