Milky oil
 

2001 502 mag mpi. Changed the oil after the winter everything look ok. put fresh oil in and started it up for a few minutes. Ran ok. Check oil and it has water in it. Drained and repeated and still milky. Raw water cooled no heat exchanger. Only about 10 hrs on new exhaust manifolds and risers. And just changed water pump impeller. Leaning towards oil cooler, intake manifold or cracked block. Boat has 370 hrs. Any advice would be appreciated😎

are you seeing this on the dipstick or in the valve covers? If in the valve covers its probably just condensation...if on the dipstick then you have an issue somewhere. Keep in mind it only take about a tablespoon of water to turn it into a milkshake....i've cleaned out a milkshake in the past by flooding the engine with a couple gallons of diesel fuel....turning it over by hand and run the oil pump with a cordless drill then drain and change oil twice to clean it all up...

Fresh water or salt? If salt, I would consider pressure testing the cooling system by blocking off hoses and adding compressed air via a schrader valve.

Its brackish. And I noticed it first on the dipstick pumped all the oil out and refilled it. Ran for a another minute or so and pump it back out and still milky

How was it winterized? ??

I poured antifreeze In the hoses at the thermostat housing into the block filled up and unto I heard it run out the exhaust

so you didnt run the engine just poured the antifreeze in there?

First I drained all the water and yea I just filled it. If I ran it would of just went out the exhaust

If you run it for awhile, does the level go UP on the dipstick?
I've milkshaked a few motors, nearly all head or intake gaskets.

That is really not the way to winterize. Water can get trapped in block even if you drain. I have pulled motors and drained what i thought was everything in block and as i move the motor around more water comes out. I have an xr drive and after i drain the block header and oil cooler. I add the pink stuff in hose that goes to impeller and wait till it comes out exhaust. It usually takes me 8 to 10 gallons and i start to get pink out of exhaust around 6 gallons. I do not run a thermostat but a reducer washer and have noticed when flushing on the hose i will get condensation in the valve cover. But after coming back from a run its all gone.

I didn't really pay attention to the level on the dipstick. Kinda scared to run it to long. Maybe I'll run it again and see what happens

Well I changed the oil again and ran it turned milky again only after a minute. So I took off the oil cooler on the front of the motor and it doesn't seem to be leaking so now I guess I'm gonna take the intake off to see if I can see anything there

Just curious what brand exhaust and length of riser did you recently put on it?

Glm

Mmm... Something froze hard is my guess...

Well I took off the intake and didn't see anything noticeable. So I'm just gonna change the intake gaskets and see what happens

After further inspection found a bent pushrod on cylinder 2 exhaust. Did a compression test and found cylinder #2 #4 and #6 had low compression. So I pulled the head and those three cylinders diffenently had water in them the Pistons,cylinders the intake and exhaust ports were all rusty. Not 100% sure if it's a head gasket or exhaust manifold

my bet is the block and or heads are cracked from improper winterizing.

So did you pull the engine? I hate to say it but at this point I'd pull it rather than trouble shooting in the boat with engine parts etc scattered everywhere and find out what caused the problem which I would guess either block or exhaust manifold. Water in # 2 more than likely bent pushrod. Easy enough to pressure test manifolds while you have them off.