procharger vs tbs250
 

Looking for some input from both sides of the fence. I'm finally starting to collect parts for my engine build, boat is a 90 38 fountain fever with 454 mag carb motors. I recently had all the vinyl redone so I do not want to cut up my sun pad for blower hatches or scoops, thus the reson for the low profile blower shop 250s' or prochargers. I want to end up with intercoolers which makes me nervous about the assembled overall height of the TBS250/intercooler/carb/spark arrestor. Does anyone have a similar combo that has a measurement I could compare to on my boat?

Do the prochargers whine as much as the your typical roots style blower?

Also looking for input from owners of each setups, pros/cons/would you purchase again? etc/etc/etc

Thanks
matt

ProChargers won't whine like a roots blower. You'll hear them more at idle making a whistle sound, I kinda dig it. A guy I know has a 32 Fountain with twin hp500's that he put 250's on with out coolers. If I remember right, there wasn't room for them. But the boat ran really really well without them. If I remember right, he was pushing 100mph.

Matt, go on Youtube and there are several videos of racecars and offshore type boats with Prochargers. They rattle a bit at idle, but still have a distinctive cool sound I think.

(I also have two Procharger Carb boxes if you need them)

I don't like the Procharger Rattle / Whine / Ding Ding Ding a ling ding ding / at idle. Sounds like loose bolts, nuts, and washers and something's ready to fall off. Drive's me nuts.

I think it's an acquired taste! haha! (I switched to turbos!--all the whine, no rattle)

I agree with you SB, I don't care for the sound of the gear mesh at idle, but I don't mind it as the shaft speed increases and the audible gear mesh frequency get higher.

Here's my dealings with procharger (ATI)this was not for a boat but a car not that this should matter.
P600 didn't make the boost they claimed parts of kit missing and and intercoolers different from what I ordered ,
They did send missing parts after hours on the phone .
Motor needed more boost so ordered a D1 from a agent not self contained this leaked oil from day one sounded like a bucket of bolts at idle , it did make the boost they said it would .
There was always a pool of oil in the inlet neck which got worse so I decided to take it apart .
Found best part of a tube off JB weld where the oil seal fits , and the hole they machined for the seal was to deep and left 5 thou of alley left to hold the seal in which fell of when the seal came out .
Called them up and the tried to tell me that the dark grey stuff I was looking at was silicon and denied they would use JB weld , finally they came clean and said it was JB weld and only used it on some of the head units when the casting came out not too good .
I am guessing they never though any one would take it apart .
I have kept the emails from them and took pictures of the mess .

Ran a M3 for 5 seasons, not a single issue, but I did my research and set up the fuel system correctly and had very little noise with hatch closed, no where near the noise of friends 525SC's

You'd probably be better off clearance wise, heat wise, simplicity wise, power wise, and cost wise, to stick a couple 420 or 8-71 blowers on , without intercoolers, rather than the 250, with intercooler.

I did have 250 B&M blowers, and stock hatches on my 38 Fever. The hatches needed those dog dish style inserts to fit the flame arrestor, but the top side of the hatch/upholstery remained intact. Being that my boat has SSM IV drives, the engines are prob mounted lower than yours though in the hull.

I have molds for these in case you wanna do some race hatches. You can still lay across them with a towel if need be.