Head gasket?
 

502 MPI 28 hours... Steaming out of starboard tail pipe and oil dripping out of what looks to be between exhaust manifold and head... At #6 cylinder. I thought it was coming from valve cover and leaking down... But it is dry up above the manifold... Wet under.

Haven't seen a headgasket leak oil, but since I witness new things seemingly weekly, it means I haven't seen everything.

I have never seen it either. At first I thought it was the oil cooler.... But I don't see milky oil coming out between the manifold and head... Just oil. Starting to think it could be the oil pressure sender leaking at high rpm and squirting on to the manifold... But this wouldn't explain the constant steam out of starboard pipe... Temps are steady at 150* don't budge no matter the rpm. Motor was built by a reputable builder also. If it were excessive blow by... I don't think the oil would leak out... But no exhaust would leak out of manifold. Going to trouble shoot tomorrow.

Going to start with compression check, because the boat has def lost some power and when I start the boat... It blows a puff of white smoke... That smells like oil

Things that come to mind.
1. look at spark plug for presence of oil burning or water (steam cleaned spark plug.
2. Do you have gaskets between head and the exhaust manifold. Could be the way that oil is getting out of the exhaust port.
3. Do leak down to check ring integrity?
4. Were new exhaust seats cut into the head?
5. Cracked head new exhaust eat letting water in.
6. Is there any oil on the head near ports 2 and 4?
7. What kind of valve cover gaskets? Cork ones that got ripped and are now leaking oil?

valve issue...compression test right move

So I talked to the engine builder today and he says 100% blown head gasket between 4-6. I am going to compress 6 today and see it it blows out of 4. The reason he is so sure..... When he installed the motor... The timing was set to 12* and I am running 87 pump fuel. ... Knock sensor retarded timing... Built heat and popped gasket. I didn't know the timing was advanced... And was never told to run higher grade fuel. Going to pull heads this week and see.

I wouldn't think that 12* initial timing would be a problem. What compression? I used to run my 10 to 1 compression 509 cubic inch engines ( 2 ) on 87 octane with 36* total timing.

Hi,
Not sure on compression. Motor is all stock from what I understand except for srp pistons... Arp bolts. If it isn't from the timing... What else could cause this? Faulty install? Maybe it Leaned out... Possible fuel delivery?

Hi,
Yes there is a gasket between head and mani. Yes heads were completely re built including inconel valves. No oil anywhere except on #6... Bottom side of exhaust manifold. The valve cover gaskets appear to be rubber? Or something resembling rubber (Grey)

could it be the dip stick port spraying oil up onto the block? It is on that side isn't it?

It is right there! Good thinking sir! Thank you I will check that today when I get home and report back.

Just investigated and it is not the dipstick tube leaking... Looks to def be the heads on both side... The gaskets in between the block and head are rusty? It def appears to be coming from the head gasket on each side... Also the heads and exhaust seem to be getting pretty hot... But the gauge is at 145* and it is pumping water. The engine builder (a member here) seems to have done a pretty crappy job for a motor with under 20 hours on it.

And I can't verify timing (neither could they have) because the spray painted the balancer and I can't see any markings on it. :lolhit:

That's normal. Find the engraved line on the balancer and use White out to fill the line in.

Ok. I found it and marked it with a white marker... That would be TDC correct? Also I think I know the answer to this... But the head gasket should not be rusting should it? Heads are coming off tomorrow.

IF you have a timing pointer than you mark the degrees you want BTDC on the balancer. IF you have a pointer that has the degrees marked on it before and after TDC then you mark the zero mark on the balancer.

Sounds like the back of the intake is leaking oil or something of the sort. Head gaskets don't leak oil.

Head gaskets dont rust with 20 hours of use on them. Marine head gaskets are stainless too. But before we all jump to conclusions, did you do a leak down or compression test? Always good to have a baseline. I had 70% leakdown in my cylinder 7 and you could hear the air in the lifter gallery. Pulled the head off and it looks like a broke a ring, you can see the scoring on the cylinder walls.

Compression... All plugs out... Cold engine...
1- 110
2-135
3-110
4-110
5-110
6-110
7-135
8-115

Oh and the is def rust running down the side of the block from the head gasket.

#6 exhaust maninfod casting is full of oil

Number 6 injector harness is missing... Thinkin that's the oil issue! Not firing... Wires are just sitting there... No clip

HOLY Shi" - You sure were sold a bill of goods. PILE OF CRAP that is.
Sounds like it is time to rebuild it right this time. This is just one of the many reasons that I do my own engine work. AND I am very thankful that I have the ability to build engines. The knowledge didn't come easy or cheap.
Are you sure you got the engines you paid for?

Who knows! I am thinking about replacing injector and harness and putting it back together to finish the season and build a new one in the winter? could damage have been done to that cylinder?

Anybody near Cleveland wanna assist in a engine build this winter ?!? I have built a couple 5.0 motors.... Def doing it myself. Thinkin a 540ci for about 600hp at the fly wheel.

If it has been running dry the damage was there when you brought it home. IF the injector was firing and washed the cylinder than that would not be good.

110-135 is a pretty big jump too. 10% is the norm. That's more than that.

The cylinder wasn't firing... Injector wasn't hooked up, it must have been lubricating though because it was pushing oil out of the cylinder. I pulled the heads the cylinders looks new with the cross hatching and the heads and block look great using a straight edge. Going to try and put it back together with a new injector and see how it runs... If it gets me through the season.... That's all I want!

I would think if it has oil in the cylinder then you have a broke or broke rings.Its a lot of work but if you could pull the motor and drop the pan and replace that one piston and rings you might make it through the season.

Chris

Run it.

I am going to!! Hoping the oil is just 29hours worth of blow by that has no were else to go since cylinder isn't firing... If it throws a rod the last day of the season..... O well! Just don't want to be down for 2 weeks building a motor.... Season is too short.

It sounds like the compression was normal (for what it was) A broken ring or ring land would have much worse compression. An injector not connected would be the cause of the oil. Usually there are no seals on the exhaust valve (because it sees pressure all the time), but in your case it was not seeing the exhaust pressure and heat. I would definitely put it back together, and run it. Run the engine at idle and check the exhaust temp at the exhaust port on the underside of the exhaust manifold with an infrared temp gun. http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ing-61894.html Once you verify that you have heat in all 8 cylinders, run it. Worst case scenario is your down on compression.
I think what is on eveybodys mind is who did the rebuild. Did the engine builder do the engine install too? I hate it when someone gets screwed over. Hence the reason I do most of my own work, and I double check the work that my engine builder does too. I also supply him with the specs of what I want my engine set up with. I leave nothing to chance. Just last year I rebuilt my port engine. Once I put it in the boat and was priming it, I could feel the oil pump hanging up. I wound up pulling the engine back up and laying under it in the boat to get the engine crossmember, and oil pan to remove the oil pump. It turned out to be a slight burr on the gear of the pump. You couldn't feel it when it was dry but with it pumping oil it was very evident. Luckily my engine builder got the pump warranted, but this is a prime example of why I do a lot of my own work. You just cant trust people.

That's my plan! Thank you for the post!... Yes my engine builder did the full job. He is a member here... Very suprised he hasn't spoke up yet..... I don't want to blast him because I don't know if he did the work... Or a bad employee. We have spoke several times, and he has offered to fix the issues... I just feel better fixing them myself.

Is the engine builder a commercial shop or someone doing a "side job" in his garage?

Would be good info for the rest of the board to steer clear so someone else doesn't get caught up in a similar mess.

Hi, yes it is a commercial shop.

Why a new injector if it was the #6 injector wire that was missing ?

Hi, I had them all balance and flow tested and 1 (#4) was in need of replacement. The Others were cleaned and are good to go.

Changed impeller today... Had all blades, but seemed very flexible. Injector should be here Thursday

Just wanted to give a final update for anybody in the future who may have this issue. I replaced the injector, boat is running great. I tested compression again.... This time warm and WOT and got: 144-145-143-144-139-145-140-144 thank you everybody for the help, very much appreciated.