Ultralight aircraft perhaps? :eek:

Impeller housing was in great shape (but I still swapped it out given I already had it off)

I will check the wiring to the tstat...I recall seeing 2 sensors in the area but only one eyehook connector on each (I need to look closer to see if 2 wires were bound together)..

I pulled off hoses to check for rubber bits but I did not have access to a hose to flush out their connection points. I will do this too.

I need to research more about what you are describing with respect to using crossovers, I can't say I fully understand this yet.



Not issues, learning experiences. :D Collecting stamps is a hobby.

I'll let Mario 'splain it..... "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti

Engine temp - heat gun shows one engine running ~10 - 20 degrees warmer than the other as measured at the tstat housing, the front of the engine block, manifolds and risers. One engine runs ~150 on the gauge, the other shows ~ 160-170 however the gauge does not operate with the engine on for some reason. I obtained this reading by stopping the engine and turning the key to p1 also, when facing the engine the right side seems hotter. I pulled the tstat out of the engine running warm and it is still warm. I do have another set of gil risers that may fit (I think these may have been off a 502 but they both have the same square bolt pattern. How would I tell if a riser went bad? Same with manifold? risers come off easily, but I really don't want to take the manaifolds off, there is very little space between engines and I find lining up those heavy things makes it a real pain to bolt back on. What I thought was odd was that the oil temp read low on the gauge @ ~200-220.One other thing - all of these readings were taken in the 1K -3K rpm range, I am afraid to run the engines harder until I better understand and/or fix this.....Maybe it is normal that one engine runs hotter than the other?

Now for that warning buzzer - My understanding is this goes off if; the drive oil level is low, oil pressure is low or the water temp is > 200. My drive oil level is topped off, oil pressure is in the 40-50 range and the buzzer seems to go off when the engine that gets warmer hits about 130 degrees (again I only get this reading when I stop the engine and put the key in p1 because the gauge is "dead" while the engine is running). I'm thinking a next step is to replace the temp gauge thinking a bad reading (no reading) could also set off the warning buzzer. Obviously this will not make the engine run any cooler, but maybe it will stop that darn buzzer.

Pull the risers and stuff a rag down the exhaust of the manifold. Get a Hacksaw blade and thrash and clean out the water jackets of the manifold.

Duct tape some small hose on your shop vac hose so you can get down in the manifold to clean the cleared debri out of it.

Hopefully your risers are halfway decent shape yet.

Scott, on my boat the gauge sender is brass and has brown wire, the alarm sensor is stainless and has brown w/gray chaser. Make sure these are correct. Did you try swapping these two temp senders with other motor to isolate. I would do this by swapping wires at motors not actually removing and replacing the physical units.

I'm starting to wonder if I am chasing a red herring. Although my drive reserve containers are topped off. I noticed that the reserve behind the left engine has 2 wires hanging below it and they are not connected. I looked all over and could not find a place where these male connectors could connect. One wire is black, the other is sort of a dark brown/purple. The wires are only about 6", any idea what these connect to?

Sounds like that res. is not connected to alarm system. To clarify the alarm system, any fault causes that sensor to ground the system completing the circus, I mean circuit, they are all connected in parallel. The res. tank has 2 wires because it is not grounded to motor. 1 wire connects to brown w/gray wire the other to ground. If tank goes low the circuit is completed and alarm sounds. Think open switch when filled, closed when low. The disconnected wires from the reservoir means it IS NOT connected to the alarm system. Disconnected sensors WILL NOT cause a fault.

Bravo drives? Have you checked the water inlet on the transom?

Get yourself a heli-coil kit and fix that cross thread issue. Silicone is not the answer for this one...

I don't think the threading issue impacts durability, it just makes starting the threading harder. Silicone is because it is cast iron and I did not have fresh gaskets.