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-   -   Engine Starving for air? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/339550-engine-starving-air.html)

SB 07-25-2016 09:16 PM


Originally Posted by Tinkerer (Post 4463538)
Laugh all you want but I actually built a hood around the flame arrestor on one of my boats and ran a 4 inch rigid hose to it and ran it to open air at the side of the rear bench seat. Worked great untill it sucked up a pop can. I then installed two 4 inch pipes to it and ran well with 100% outside air without being preheated. I work with a lot more than ductwork.. Did I log into Yellowbullit?

http://www.ramairbox.com/product.html
http://www.ramairbox.com/images/proinstl1.jpg

endeavour32 07-25-2016 09:22 PM

now we're talking, that's some real muscle car engineering right there! Who needs high beams when you have ram air!

Wildman_grafix 07-25-2016 09:29 PM

Nice 70, who needs cowl induction!

I think they stole that from the 67? Ford 427 falcon. If my memory is right.

endeavour32 07-25-2016 09:36 PM

So why not use a blow through carb hat and run duct work to my cowl vents? What are the opinions of that? Worth a try or stupid idea?

Faster7 07-25-2016 09:45 PM


Originally Posted by tomcat (Post 4463446)
The amount of air flow you need to remove heat given off by the engine is much higher than the amount of air needed for combustion. You can get a feel for this by looking at performance data from marine engine builders like Cummins.


In this case the answer is 2493 CFM. Add the 1140 CFM you need for combustion air and you are at 3633 CFM per engine. Getting over 7,000 CFM into and out of an engine compartment isn't easy, which is why you can see air temps under the hatch much higher than 120F.

I agree with the posters above advising air temp measurements in the engine compartment. When you can keep the temp rise at a max of 30F you are doing well.

I'd look at it a bit differently, as that 1140cfm of air the engine is bringing in is also removing some engine heat. Either way, to keep temperatures down would take a lot of air. !!

SB 07-25-2016 09:45 PM


Originally Posted by endeavour32 (Post 4463566)
So why not use a blow through carb hat and run duct work to my cowl vents? What are the opinions of that? Worth a try or stupid idea?

1 x 3" or 4" would be too restrictive.

getrdunn 07-25-2016 09:57 PM

Now that's what I'm talking about. Damm straight.

SB 07-25-2016 10:00 PM

http://www.ramairbox.com/index.html

http://www.ramairbox.com/images/16partsx.gif

articfriends 07-26-2016 11:44 AM


Originally Posted by endeavour32 (Post 4463445)
I will be documenting what I do and what the results are, including air temp at the air cleaner. However I think it's way more than a temp issue. It would take a little time to have a temp issue cause a problem, but when the hatch would bounce open and closed the engine would instantly react to the change. It was change you would really feel, and at WOT you need a lot of power to feel any difference. I certainly wasn't creating a 15 hp difference.

Rereading this I see what your saying, no way that hatch bouncing open would change heat that fast so I do agree you must have a supply restriction. Again, a vacuum gauge/map/kpa gauge on manifold should show this in back to back testing.

outonsafari 07-26-2016 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4463505)
Many V boats with a windshield I've been in, the air moves backwards (towards the frt) at the rear seat/ hatch.

The shorter peoples hair blows towards the windshield, the taller people may have their hair go towards the rear.

If you sit on the very corners of the rear seat and stick your head out, your hair will go backwards.

And Yeh, I got geaky enough once on a certain boat (and a few cowl hooded cars) to use those air flow direction ribbons .

so placement of vents and the direction the vent flows is another key factor. (pointed front back or sideways)
a sleeve of dixie cups in the cockpit and the go pro pointed as to record what they do might aid in placement and direction


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