draining the block - easier way? 1/4" valves?
 

I have a 1990 Chris Craft 245 LTD w/a OMC 460 King Cobra.

Each fall, the ritual winterization becomes more of a hassle.

I can drain the exhaust easy enough, with the 1" rubber ends, but draining the block, with those drain plugs is a contortion event similar to a train wreck.

Does anyone make something I can screw in, in there place, that extends it, say 6-12" and puts a nice easy valve on the bottom of?

Would that be too much to ask? I feel like I could make something from lowes, but would rather just buy something people know works.

This: https://www.marineengine.com/newpart...num=SIE18-4218

is what allegedly fits

Would this be as easy as 1/4" NPT, to a piece of 12" long 1/4" PEX, to a 1/4" ball valve?!

Thank you guys!

anyone have anything for the 1" ID hose on the exhaust? a rubber hose that's 1" on one end, and 1/2" on other with a simple valve?

anyone else hate how NO ONE designed these things to be WORKED on?

thank u much.

Getrdunn and I have a slick set up to drain our blocks. It basically consists of 1/4" to AN-6 adaptor to AN-6 hose which is run up to the thermostat housing and then connects to the other side of the block via the same connections. It takes about 2 minutes to drain both blocks. I've used it now for over a year and it works perfectly.

I can't get to mine either. I suck anti freeze thru the water pickup in drive pull the circulation water pump hose to remove mix then fill block with 80% green thru thermostat housing. Sleep good all winter

Ha, so you just go drain to drain, so nothing leaks. I get it.

Looks like I'll build something this fall, when I have to pull the plugs anyway.

I see you have a 292. I'm looking at that, unless a 353 is in the budget. (Used).

I'm thinking 1/4" to 12" of flexible 1/4" tube with a 1/4" ball valve at the end. I'll zip tie it up so it doesn't swing all over the engine bay. Then just open the valve in fall to drain it. Shame I didn't think of this... 20 years ago lol

Now in stainless:

http://www.spraysmarter.com/stainles...50Bhg#419=3994

Valve.

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?...oducts_id=1932

And some standard 3/8" clear tubing. Some zip ties. And TA-DA. No more contortion and burnt hands. (I change the oil at the same time). Or did. Now I could wait to the next day, but should install these, then change oil. Then drain block for the winter... Why don't they teach this stuff in high school?!

Obviously the exact parts may be different. EBay has some pretty cheap stuff. One could even hard mount the drain end.. Get pretty fancy.

You could mount this low, under the engine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-22223-...5XVSK4&vxp=mtr

I use ball valves on pipe nipples, whatever length works best. Can still stick a welding rod in if i need to clear out debris.

I was also going to do ball valves but I like the system I described above way more. No ball valves, nothing to mount and worry about, dead simple, and doesn't leak. I would get push lock fittings and hoses, it will cost $65 for both engines and it looks nice.

The problem we have had with draining the blocks is that all the rust and black goop ends up in the bilge. IMO, it is much cleaner and easier to winterize with antifreeze.

I've only been in fresh for the past 26 years. Now brackish... just need this thing to hold together 4 more years... or until my car is paid off... lol.

1/4" npt to -6 AN adapter on each side of block joined at housing for simple disconnect and drain. Push lok hose and fittings.

That is the way I use to do it until I pulled my engines in the winter, and found the blocks were full of frozen water. I was lucky and nothing was cracked, but that was the last time I ever stored my engines without draining them first. I would alway run at least 5 gallons of antifreeze through each engine, once up to temp. I'd rather have some rust and goop in the bilge than cracked blocks. Its easy to hose out a bilge, not so easy to replace cracked engines.

Not only that but I kinda like to the rusty scales and black goop etc out of my blocks if it was in there. The beauty of this simple set up is you can drain every so often to prevent build up of any kind including sand potentially causing hot spots in the blocks. Might not be for everybody but sure is slick.

You can also use a T fitting and cap one end and simply have another hose handy for draining through drain plug. Not a bad idea to put some air pressure to the lines occasionally also just to make sure they don't scale over. Especially if you only drain once a year.

Nice. I'll take pics of mine this fall when I build something.

Wow,.... I see frozen busted blocks happenin' all over the place,.....

I use plain ole brass hex-head pipe plugs, 'cause ya Gotta probe the holes in the block to dislodge the sand, silt, 'n rust to drain it proper,....

Run antifreeze if ya want, but ya Still gotta drain the block 1st,....

Otherwise, eventually, you Will Freeze, 'n Bust yer block,.....

I drain, 'n store Dry,.... Never had a busted block in over 40 years,....

1/4" ball valve right off block easiest and cheapest thing, don't use long nipples they can break under rough water conditions, shorter is best

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I antifreeze and then drain locks and exhaust, sea pumps, as much as ican, I store in conditioned space but still drain

Nothing wrong with that either. I understand what Bondo was getting at also by not reducing down due to scale etc blocking the drains. With or without sea strainers I still think it's a good idea to drain blocks a couple times a season to avoid any kind of build up. All I know is if I don't get a gallon + or - out of each side there is potentially some blockage. When winterizing as long as I get two gallons in I'm comfortable.

I use to wintereize completely different with great success by running on muffs til stats open and immediately run 5 gallons of antifreeze through with short hose and plastic can laying on swim platform etc. Was kinda nice cause I didn't have to remove or anything. Now I just like to drain blocks and fill. "Just my preference". But if I didn't have any way of measuring to a degree how much water drained from blocks I wouldn't trust method used. Like endeavor32 mentioned it's amazing how much build up one can get in a block. Sea strainers prevent a lot of this however will still get scale.

I never had many issues with blockage, worse case a thin screwdriver fixes it I leave all valves open all winter

You guys must have easier access than what I have in my Formula. You are not getting anywhere near the drain plugs in my boat. I've tried every possible thing I could think of and I alway came up short. Never short on a few good curse words, but certainly short on progress. With the system I described I drain the blocks, blow air back up the hose, then if the block are done draining, dump some antifreeze in the block and if it comes out the hose, I'm done. Pretty much zero chance there is going to be any issues come the spring.

The best part is it's fast, easy and no frustration.