Winter storage
 

2000 500EFI's very difficult to get to block drian plugs. Whats the best way to store for winter?

In southern Florida:D :D :D


Sorry, I couldn't resist:cool:
I have the same problem , I start them (one at a time), get it warm , and change from water to antifreeze (5 gallon jug) and hit it with fogging oil near the end of the antifreeze , so it's smoking real good then shut it off. But mine has carbs.

Like mopower, I do the antifreeze thing. I never touch the drains (they break off too easy!). So far my EFI hasn't had any trouble with fogging, but I don't shoot enough in to stall the motor, only enough to start some smoke. Make absolutely sure it's warm enough to open the t-stat or antifreeze won't get throughout the motor.

Don't fog the motor by spraying thru the throttle body!! Read the manual. You have to fill the fuel filter with half fuel/half 2 stroke motor oil to fog the ENTIRE fuel system. I know the proceedure is posted here on OSO in the past. I did it last year, and it worked great!!

Actually there is a new procedure out from merc, basically the dif is to ad stablizer to the mixture as well and run it for 5-10 min rather than 1-2 as per the old procedure using the fuel filter full of gas/oil.


Fogging Mixture :

In a 6 US gal (23 L) remote outboard fuel tank, mix:

5 US gal (19 L) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline.

64 fl oz. (1.89 L) Mercury or Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard oil.

5 fl oz. (150 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer, OR 1 fl oz. (30 mL) Mercury or Quicksilver Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate.

1. Disconnect and plug boat’s fuel line from Water Separating Fuel Filter inlet.

2. Connect remote outboard fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the inlet of the Water Separating Fuel Filter.

3. a. Cool Fuel models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
b. VST models: Start and run engine at 1300 rpm for 10 minutes.

4. After specified running time is complete, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut engine
off.

P.S. don't skip the stabilizer, it can/does lead to stuck injectors in the spring

There is a kit available from camco manufacturing (www.camco-mfg.online.com/camco-mfg.com/ ) it include a jug, adapter & valves to hook up antifreeze and water. Available is also ban frost 2000, -100 degree or -50 degree RV/Marine antifreeze. Hope this is helpful !!

Ok, so if you follow the above directions when do you run the antifreeze through the system? When you pull to an idle?

This will be the first year I have acutally had to winterize my efi motor:rolleyes: Last year was easy due to the fact the motor was strung out all over kansas and missouri:eek:

Thanks

Chris

283Check, do it right
 

Do it the right way, and make sure you drain the block before running the antifreeze thru it.

There is absolutely no way that you will be able to run the antifreeze thru the motor with the water still in the block. You will not get a good mixture. There will still be water mixed in with the antifreeze. I know those drain plugs are hard to get to, but would you rather struggle getting at the motor mount bolts when you have to take the motor out in the spring when the thing cracks.

You have your self a nice 500EFI, don't ruin it, do it the right way.

Run the motor up to temp, hook up a jug with the mixture that Ursus listed, run it for 5 min, then shut the motor down and drain the block. After that, start it back up and then run the antifreeze thru it until it comes out the exhuast, then you're done.

You could also gravity feed it into the block, but I find it easier to run it thru while the motor is running.

I guess that is my question, just trying to get it stright in my mind. After running the mixture for 10mins, shut down and drain the block cooler and pump? Then with the fogging mixture still hooked up start back up and run the antifreeze through?

I'm just wanting to make sure I don't run the fogging mix out when putting the antifreeze in!

That's it!
 

283Check,

You got it right! Don't worry, you won't run out of 6 Gallons of Fogging Fuel Mixture in 10minutes. You have plenty of time, and you will have plenty of gas left over.

When I was a mechanic, I made a full 6gallon jug full of fogging mixture and it lasted the whole fall. I probably did about 25-30 motors with that jug.

Thanks Panther I have a couple more weeks before its time but just want to make sure I have my ducks in a row..

:confused:

Why?

Also,
Panther wrote; "Do it the right way, and make sure you drain the block before running the antifreeze thru it."

RV anti freeze or Sierra ? Could be a big difference here.

Before you ask, I have a manual.

This is what is on Mercury's website about why not to fog an EFI.

Why is Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor not recommended in the newer EFI and OptiMax engines?

A: Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor uses a thick base designed to protect the internal engine surfaces. In some applications we have seen a build up of the thick base inside the injectors, causing the injectors to stick or operate incorrectly. On these models we recommend Quickleen and 2-cycle engine oil as a replacement for Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor. Quickleen is used to clean the injectors. The engine oil lubricates, as well as prevents rust from forming. We continue to recommend Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer to help prevent the formation of varnish and/or gum in the gasoline. Always follow the storage procedures outlined in your Operation, Maintenance & Warranty Manual or Service Manual.

My 1st yr to use the antifreeze also. Motor has usually been apart by now last couple of yrs. :rolleyes:

Couldn't decide between the nasty green stuff or the safe RV/Marine stuff. No where on the RV antifreeze does it say anything about having rust inhibitors, which is what I want! No winter corrosion thing going on while stored. I assumed that was because it is mainly for water lines and holding tanks which are mainly plastic where the only conscern was freeze protection. So.........

I used the NASTY!