I bought all new senders from hardin and the chinese **** they sent me had all my guages reading crazy this last time. Ordered real senders and all my problems went away...

Dodge truck I had. 2 different types of Chinese senders both had me thinking it was running hot. Bought a Dodge sender and temp was right back where it should be. Huge pita cause I changed heads and intake so I thought for sure I screwed something up.

I am running a 454 with a 7 qt pan. Normal cruising I see 190 for oil temps.

Extended running over 4K, temps climbs to approx 260.

Idle the last 1/8 mile into the boathouse..temp back down to 190.

I am not worried at all, using 20w50 foe a viscosity.

Ken

I would never run my oil at 260, but thats just me. If my oil did get that hot, id be investing in a bigger cooler . Just my opinion. And mercury racing's.

Yes that's awful hot, I can run Miles and miles last season and never see more then 225-230, went 5500 for at least 5 miles running last year, 260 is WAY too hot for oil temps

I think a few guys missed Dan said he is using THERMOCOUPLER Gauges not senders...

I know alot of oil companies , say how thier oils do just fine at elevated temperatures, but i dont care so much about the oil, as i do the engine.

Pac racing had a good chart showing the variances in valve spring pressures as the spring heats up. We rely on oil for lubrication as well as cooling of engine parts. I dont really want 260 degree oil spraying on my springs, etc.

Plus they dont test oils viscosity at 260. How do we know the oil meets the criteria at 260 degrees? There is no regulation on it at that temperature

Has he verified it is this hot , seemed that was the jist of the original question?

edit , is this both enggines or only one.

I am ok with 260, I would start to worry at 300, thanks for your concern and solutions.
Oil is tested for viscosity at 40C and 100C. Anything below 100C does not meet the advertised spec and anything above 100C doesn't either.

So in answer to your question, there is no criteria for any temp except 40C and 100C.

So unless you can run at exactly 100C, you are not in spec, but I am splitting hairs.

Ken

My question is if everything is reading OK w infrared gun but the guage and its 50 deg higher is not why are we assuming the guage is correct?

I must have missed something.

Seems to me if you run higher HP engines at high RPM for an extended time, managing the oil temp is worth the investment.

UPDATE:
After years of messing with it the answer was staring me in the face the whole time and it not only solved my oil temp issue it solved my oil pressure issues.
All the oil lines are -12 except for the oil cooler lines for some unknown reason they were -10AN
Basically as soon as the oil started to get hot the oil stat started to open and reroute the oil thru the smaller lines causing a retriction, this is why my oil pressure would develop a 30psi delta between filter and block.

Oil temp read great at the filter because the oil was getting cooled off but not enough volume was making it thru the cooler to drop the temps in the pan.

Changed out cooler lines to -12AN and now oil temps after cooler are 150-180* and about 40* more in the pan and pressure no longer drops off.


Runs like a champ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c869wJXTlJE

I love stories with a happy ending!

in 2002 people told me I was crazy/didn't need -12 oils and full sweep fittings.even the guy I worked for.I knew in my heart,more flow and bigger oil coolers(w/ thermostats) was a must for anything over 650hp(my old 454's).kept basically the same set up for the whipple 490's now.now I have huge oil filters.
hopefully others will follow suit w/ what you have done here.good job

When it comes to Fluid Conduit , Be it Water or Oil . Bigger is always better , less pumping losses , more volume , reduced heat , reduced pressure drop.
Some of the napcar engines have -16 scavenge lines from the pans , -12 for main pressure , and dual -20 for tank return. Always made more power on the dynos and could reduce oil pressure , because we didn't have large Delta P's . The Toyotas only run about 45psi at 9000!

I had similar issues years back. The previous owner had rigged my engines with -8 oil lines to the filter and cooler. Oil psi at the dash, was always around 50psi, and would fall off at higher rpm.

When I redid the engines ,i went will all -12 stuff and full flow fittings. Problem solved.

I wanna say that in a psi application like this, a -12 will flow nearly twice as many gpm than a -10?

When I spoke an engineer at Barnes while designing my dry sump system, he was adamant that -12 be the minimum oil lines used. I have -12 on the scavaging lines, cooler and t-stat lines and one -16 supply line to the pump with two -16 return lines to the tank. All fittings are -12 o ring or 3/4" NPT minimunm.

I had a member here say I was wasting money on -12 when -10 would be just fine. I listened to the engineer at Barnes.

Also, while proper fittings and hose is expensive, in my opinion, it's cheaper than internal engine components. :cartman:

Great update, great info.

Excellent, everyone is on the same page.
CP doesn`t even make these in -10 so that tells me something.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14609...r-fitting.aspx


I wouldn`t have thought that a -12 outflows a -10 by that much but as Joe had found it`s almost double. 14GPM vs. 28gpm . The thermofilter uses 28gpm filters, so why would anyone use -10AN:rolleyes:

-10 vs. -12
http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...39163226-3.jpg





After a hot lap before
(oil temp second from right)
http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s7/...35275640-3.jpg



After a hot lap after

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s4/...43240799-3.jpg

I was going to ask your oil pressure. but I read to this point first. I would like to ask Mike about this and see if he has seen this.
20 pounds oil pressure can reduce 20 deg. oil temp. ??
The reason I say this is my new motor I built has everything the same as the other motor except; New pistons custom forged to resemble stock and more volume oil pump. It runs 20 deg cooler oil temp than the old motor. New motor 50-75 psi old motor 30 55 psi.( according to the gauge) I am getting 180 at deg. cruising on the new motor and 200 deg. at cruising on the old motor for oil temp.
This leads me to believe more oil pressure means lower oil temps.. Correct??

PS I 'm looking to freshen my old motor with new heads and pistons cam etc like the new one. :)

I don`t know about yours but in my case the restriction in volume caused a higher temp in the pan and lower oil pressure. I don`t believe when everything is set up correctly higher oil pressure is going to cause a lower oil temp.

You can see my oil temps going up fast and at that time we were still working out the set up , it wouldn`t go over 5200rpms.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFIbjPLbM2g


Last season.. Oil pressure was always going down with rpm.. below 40 ish psi @ 6000rpm
Bearing looked fine when taken apart thou.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06RG...ature=youtu.be

(Mild thunder goes for a ride at 4:05) :D


100 miles since upgrading lines to -12 lines

195* oil temps at WOT is the most I`ve seen after the cooler.
No less than 60 psi .

So much better :thankyouthankyou:

Awesome. Bet you are so glad that is past you.

Again, good stuff.

That low oil temp is the best feeling. I'm stoked for you! My last boat was alway s 240-260 at wot. This one never goes over 220 that I can remember. Always runs under 200 for the most part. My new motor has lighter pistons of the same spec.( they had to rebalance the crank) Like Gordy said to me; The old motor is probably just working harder. I think I''ll wait until I upgrade my old motor before I try any more Kilo runs. Lol! .( But i would say it will pick up a couple mph.)

Are you running Torco 20-50?