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WTH is going on with my oil temp
My oil temp is located in the canton pan. Oil temps were climbing to 250* but when I`d shoot the oil lines coming from engine or the oil filter my infrared gun never read more than 190*
Decided to replace the sender type gauge with a thermocouple type gauge but the readings are the same. :confused: After a ride at 4500 I saw 265* and climbing ....open hatch shoot every oil hose I can see, nothing over 200* Line from oil cooler 101* ish Pull the dipstick. feel the oil , doesn`t feel like 265*. Wouldnt that be burning hot? Shoot the oil pan, 201* :confused::confused::confused::confused: |
next time pull the dipstick and shoot it with one of those lazer thermometer gizmos. They are cheap and a nice tool to have. Never mind...just reread it and you have one, dod you shoot the oil on the dipstick
I know they make temp sensor dipsticks for bug motors.... wonder if they can be adapted or if one is avail for bbc's?? |
most of the temp gun,s won,t give a proper reading if shooting a braded stainless an hose,i try to shoot a black hose or surface and have found that it gives a better read of actual temp.just offering food for thought.
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yes, don't shoot the lines, try the filter itself
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ICDEDPPL -
Is this a new issue or did you just hook up an oil temp gauge ? If you have had an oil temp guage, Has your oil temp sender always been in the pan ? Did Canton send you the 270* pan vs the 225* pan by mistake ? Bad joke, I know, lol. |
Did you try shooting temps of all of the same things on the other engine? As someone else said the infrared won't work on reflective surfaces and I'd question the temps of a rubber hose if that's what you have but certainly the pan and the oil filter should be two good sources. Check one engine against the other and go from there.
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Buddy of mine had the same issue. Changed the oil and temps changed. Don't know if he changed weights though. He wasn't sure of what weight to run either not knowing what the engine builder sets his bearing clearances to.
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I`ve changed oil 3 times 20w50 and 50weight this time around. I`m shooting the AN fittings with the gun at the ThermoFilter (pictured)
SB , The oil temp issue has always kinda been around in one form or another , I~ve always contributed it to some previous issues. Mike, you remember the oil adapter was modified (drilled) I think for more flow ? Maybe it`s not large enough and I`m not getting enough oil flow heating up the oil in the pan.? At 4200rpm I have 70psi at the mechanical on the Thermofilter (pictured) but 50psi above the oil adapter. (also switched those gauges to mechanical) I plan on moving the oil pressure tap to the oil galley as Ive read above the oil filter may give wrong readings but maybe that has something to do with it.. http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...73471550-3.jpg |
Can you suck some oil up the dipstick and check it with a cooking thermometer, that would end guessing.
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How about a bourdon tube temp gauge mounted on the engine , to rule out any electrical issues
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I have been having the same issue on my motor since it was refreshed last fall. After hitting every line, fitting I could find, oil filter & pan. Then doing it on the other. That motor was actually cooler at all the same places than on non refreshed motor. Swapped sending unit as well. Just left it that it had to be the gauge.
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I battled the same issue for an entire season. It turned out the sending unit was t the right match for the gauge. Gaffrig gauges use a different ohm setting. My gauge read twice the actual temp.
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Put some small pieces of dark masking tape in the areas you plan to take readings with the infrared thermometer gun. If the surface is reflective the gun will tend to read low.
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4468149)
ICDEDPPL -
Is this a new issue or did you just hook up an oil temp gauge ? If you have had an oil temp guage, Has your oil temp sender always been in the pan ? Did Canton send you the 270* pan vs the 225* pan by mistake ? Bad joke, I know, lol. I'm wondering if gauges are coordinated with senders? As in matched set, specially staggered so you can pass on the outside in turn 4.... |
new senders matched to gauges, and then a complete new gauge and thermocouple style sender.
Canton thought it was a long shot but if the pan is overfilled the oil will pick up heat from the crank. aid a lot of circle track guys have that issue due to running shallow pans. He thought try a half a quart less oil , or move sender to different location as the oil pan can become a heat sink with no air moving across it. |
I would think oil pressure would sacrifice a bit being its that much more hotter than the other oil ? Oil pressures the same as oil in other engine . I would think oil pressure would show a heat issue. And yes 265 oil is frilled hot to the touch , I wouldn't want to stick my hand in boiling water.
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4468445)
as the oil pan can become a heat sink with no air moving across it.
These cars did not have oil coolers and where not to get oil coolers. |
be sure you do not have a lean condition heating up the pistons
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Isn't the oil in pan "hot oil" ? So after a 50 or so degree drop its 210-215? Or am I wrong?
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4468504)
Isn't the oil in pan "hot oil" ? So after a 50 or so degree drop its 210-215? Or am I wrong?
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I agree with genob as a first poke at the issue. Have you run an o2 sensor to see what air fuel ratios you are see at cruise and wot? Lean will heat the oil fast.
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i believe he has perminant a/f meters in the boat.i know for sure the engines have piston oiler,s.
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4468522)
i believe he has perminant a/f meters in the boat.
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Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 4468519)
I agree with genob as a first poke at the issue. Have you run an o2 sensor to see what air fuel ratios you are see at cruise and wot? Lean will heat the oil fast.
Definately a smell I can distinguish too. |
Sounds to me like the piston oilers are doing there job. Putting a lot more heat in the oil. Now it's time to step up the rest of the oil system to handle the extra heat. Get a bigger oil cooler. Sometimes you end and up having to run 2 oil coolers. We have motors out there that run oil through not 1 but 2 14plate coolers...
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Does that filter head have a provision for a sending unit on it somewhere? If so try wiring one up at that point and compare the 2 engines.Edit- looks like you've tried that.
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I Monitor after cooler so I know whats feeding bearings, after a safer tune this win ter on Dyno I am struggling to see 150 AFTER cooler, I am addressing that now, but all last season with mid to high 12's for A/F I saw190-220 after cooler, I changed NOTHING else, so tune can play a huge role, Also Dan is making a little more power now too, I know he went to a smaller 9 plate over the 14's last season because he was cooling too good before, do you still have those 14 plates?
Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4468516)
i was thinking the same thing.hot oil from pan through pump then through cooler then back into oil galley,s.250 in the pan might be 210 after the cooler.are the temp readings the same on both engines?
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Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 4468537)
Sounds to me like the piston oilers are doing there job. Putting a lot more heat in the oil. Now it's time to step up the rest of the oil system to handle the extra heat. Get a bigger oil cooler. Sometimes you end and up having to run 2 oil coolers. We have motors out there that run oil through not 1 but 2 14plate coolers...
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Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 4468537)
Sounds to me like the piston oilers are doing there job. .
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Everyone is being so helpful lately. I miss winter with all the bashing and insults. :nicethread:
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4468596)
Everyone is being so helpful lately. I miss winter with all the bashing and insults. :nicethread:
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4468596)
Everyone is being so helpful lately. I miss winter with all the bashing and insults. :nicethread:
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what would borgie use for oil on these engines?0w20.
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Hahahahah ^^^
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All good points, I will be putting the sender after the cooler to see whats there. I get more oil temp with piston oilers but even at 4000 rpm cruise it starts to get up there.
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Just had the million dollar idea...I dream it, you build it we will both get new boats.....
The super chiller oil pan!! The cooler vanes in the pan double as baffles and the entire pan is water jacketed, |
what are the A/F at cruise and WOT? since we richened mine up I cannot get oil temps, and we did not change much at all, what are you seeing on wideband?
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4468651)
All good points, I will be putting the sender after the cooler to see whats there. I get more oil temp with piston oilers but even at 4000 rpm cruise it starts to get up there.
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Originally Posted by offshore312
(Post 4468428)
Heck, I was going to tell him to set up (2) VAV's with chillers upstream... (worse joke) :lolhit:
I'm wondering if gauges are coordinated with senders? As in matched set, specially staggered so you can pass on the outside in turn 4.... |
Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4468666)
what are the A/F at cruise and WOT? since we richened mine up I cannot get oil temps, and we did not change much at all, what are you seeing on wideband?
2 jet changes made a difference in oil temps? .. you sure ****er? |
No the jetting joe and I did at Ryan's did though, I changed nothing else since then and this season with even warmer lake water I am not getting more then 150 oil temps, last season I saw 190-210 average all summer long
Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4468726)
I`m in the high 11`s at cruise.
2 jet changes made a difference in oil temps? .. you sure ****er? |
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