Reoccurung water pump failures...
08-25-2016, 06:25 AM
#71
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Are you blocking off the nose cone pickups when on the hose with the new drive. I know you are saying that you are having the same same problem with the old drive as the new one. However, even though the result is the same in a burned up impeller, it could have been being caused by two differnt things. Air introduced at the transome assembly or at the nose cone will equal a burned up pump at some ponit in either case.
I would take SB's advice and stop running it on the hose until you install a t-flush kit. Your on water failures I think are just chance after the impeller has been damaged from running on the hose.
I would take SB's advice and stop running it on the hose until you install a t-flush kit. Your on water failures I think are just chance after the impeller has been damaged from running on the hose.
Theory wise, that could be part of the current issue, but it still pulls water instantly with a new impeller.
But, for good practice, I will plug them in the future when flushing.
What would be the correct way to do that, duct tape, small wood dowels...
I am going with the SB plan for the near future as well.
Last edited by nsformula; 08-25-2016 at 06:34 AM.
08-25-2016, 06:29 AM
#72
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Good points, I have not been plugging the lower ports on the new drive.
Theory wise, that could be part of the current issue, but it still pulls water instantly with a new impeller.
But, for good practice, I will plug them in the future when flushing.
What would be the correct way to do that, duct tape, small wood dowels...
I am going with the SB plan for the new future as well.
Theory wise, that could be part of the current issue, but it still pulls water instantly with a new impeller.
But, for good practice, I will plug them in the future when flushing.
What would be the correct way to do that, duct tape, small wood dowels...
I am going with the SB plan for the new future as well.
08-25-2016, 06:46 AM
#73
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Breaking impeller blades off....doesnt seem like something that is caused by lack of water,unless they are old an rotten. I sounds like water combined with a weird pressure reversion is causing the blades to get ripped off. When I had water issues with fresh impellers, it would melt them.
I had a double impeller failure whilst boat was in the water. Here is how it went... I was idling into the inner harbor in Baltimore. I ran out of fuel (not proud of this) literally at the fuel dock. The fuel dock had already closed,even though it was like 5:00. I got my buddy to tow me about 1/8 mile to pier to tie up for the night. Morning came and we headed straight for the fuel dock. Fueled up,ran blowers fired up both engines,went about my business...next thing I know I have two overheat alarms screming at me. Shut them down,felt risers,they were hot. Pulled both pumps, and almost all blades were broken off of the impellers.
I feel the failure occured when I ran out of fuel, not afterwards. Is your engine rotating backwards when you shut it off?
I also had two transom housings that corroded and crushed the hose coming in from the helmet.
Now everything is new and the Hardin stainless pumps are kicking ass on my 496 mag ho's. Good luck.
I had a double impeller failure whilst boat was in the water. Here is how it went... I was idling into the inner harbor in Baltimore. I ran out of fuel (not proud of this) literally at the fuel dock. The fuel dock had already closed,even though it was like 5:00. I got my buddy to tow me about 1/8 mile to pier to tie up for the night. Morning came and we headed straight for the fuel dock. Fueled up,ran blowers fired up both engines,went about my business...next thing I know I have two overheat alarms screming at me. Shut them down,felt risers,they were hot. Pulled both pumps, and almost all blades were broken off of the impellers.
I feel the failure occured when I ran out of fuel, not afterwards. Is your engine rotating backwards when you shut it off?
I also had two transom housings that corroded and crushed the hose coming in from the helmet.
Now everything is new and the Hardin stainless pumps are kicking ass on my 496 mag ho's. Good luck.
08-25-2016, 07:57 AM
#74
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Thread Starter
Breaking impeller blades off....doesnt seem like something that is caused by lack of water,unless they are old an rotten. I sounds like water combined with a weird pressure reversion is causing the blades to get ripped off. When I had water issues with fresh impellers, it would melt them.
I had a double impeller failure whilst boat was in the water. Here is how it went... I was idling into the inner harbor in Baltimore. I ran out of fuel (not proud of this) literally at the fuel dock. The fuel dock had already closed,even though it was like 5:00. I got my buddy to tow me about 1/8 mile to pier to tie up for the night. Morning came and we headed straight for the fuel dock. Fueled up,ran blowers fired up both engines,went about my business...next thing I know I have two overheat alarms screming at me. Shut them down,felt risers,they were hot. Pulled both pumps, and almost all blades were broken off of the impellers.
I feel the failure occured when I ran out of fuel, not afterwards. Is your engine rotating backwards when you shut it off?
I also had two transom housings that corroded and crushed the hose coming in from the helmet.
Now everything is new and the Hardin stainless pumps are kicking ass on my 496 mag ho's. Good luck.
I had a double impeller failure whilst boat was in the water. Here is how it went... I was idling into the inner harbor in Baltimore. I ran out of fuel (not proud of this) literally at the fuel dock. The fuel dock had already closed,even though it was like 5:00. I got my buddy to tow me about 1/8 mile to pier to tie up for the night. Morning came and we headed straight for the fuel dock. Fueled up,ran blowers fired up both engines,went about my business...next thing I know I have two overheat alarms screming at me. Shut them down,felt risers,they were hot. Pulled both pumps, and almost all blades were broken off of the impellers.
I feel the failure occured when I ran out of fuel, not afterwards. Is your engine rotating backwards when you shut it off?
I also had two transom housings that corroded and crushed the hose coming in from the helmet.
Now everything is new and the Hardin stainless pumps are kicking ass on my 496 mag ho's. Good luck.
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08-25-2016, 08:53 AM
#76
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Thread Starter
This is an easy fix and will guarantee water gets to the pump no matter how long it has been sitting.
I also bought clear 1 1/4 reinforced hose for the transom to sea water pump, maybe I will be able to see water or at least know the condition of the hose in the future,
It will likely discolor though.
I also re-evaluated my air lock theory.
The cooling system is vented to the atmosphere thru the exhaust, unlike an automotive system which is mostly air tight.
The open system in the boat will drain, but not likely airlock
Last edited by nsformula; 08-25-2016 at 11:36 AM.
09-05-2016, 10:51 AM
#78
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$4.99 says that you have an air leak some where on the suction side of the pump. Pressure from the hose feeds the pump so the lack of suction is overcome. If system is already primed like after your on-water repair the water is sealing the vacuum leak enough to keep pumping. Supply hose or pump housing or??
09-06-2016, 09:05 AM
#80
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Thread Starter
I did end up taking the drive off, even though it is new, to double check the hose from the bell housing to the transom and it is in perfect condition and installed properly and not leaking.
I took the inlet hose from the transom to the pump off and checked the inside and it is in good condtion, you can see thru it and it is not coming apart on the inside.
I replaced the w/p inlet hose with new hose and put at tee in it .
I know this does not address whatever is causing my problem but it does allow me to flush the engine and prime the w/p if I need to.
Many people have said I have a leak in the suction side of the water pump, which makes perfect sense, but, I have not been able to find that leak with 2 different drives.
Also, as I said, if there was a leak there, why can I put a new impeller on it, and touch nothing else, and have the new impeller pull water right away.
One thing a local tech said I may have a thermostat that is not seating and allowing the block to completely drain leaving the impeller dry after storage.
I'll pull the housing and have a look.
I took the inlet hose from the transom to the pump off and checked the inside and it is in good condtion, you can see thru it and it is not coming apart on the inside.
I replaced the w/p inlet hose with new hose and put at tee in it .
I know this does not address whatever is causing my problem but it does allow me to flush the engine and prime the w/p if I need to.
Many people have said I have a leak in the suction side of the water pump, which makes perfect sense, but, I have not been able to find that leak with 2 different drives.
Also, as I said, if there was a leak there, why can I put a new impeller on it, and touch nothing else, and have the new impeller pull water right away.
One thing a local tech said I may have a thermostat that is not seating and allowing the block to completely drain leaving the impeller dry after storage.
I'll pull the housing and have a look.
