Ive made several purchases on here in that manner, never a problem.

Why not a postal money order?

Kodiak is what they are. Never used them however would be a step up from stock and do have individual runners but not what you'd want if you have much of a cam at least with those stock risers. Also if your decking your heads make sure you check piston to valve clearance with that lift of cam especially if you advance it.

Check on available risers on those kodiaks but personally I'd stay away from them.

What is the problem with sending a check?

I'd be more worried about valve event timing, and radial clearance with a big intake valve , as far as the piston to valve clearance goes. The valve is at max lift when the piston is down in the bore quite a ways.

With low lift marine cams you don't have piston to valve issues at max lift its at .005-.010. And isn't really an issue until you get into larger valves 2.3&up the valve hits on the corner of the pocket. Even this doesn't happen much until you step up to a 24* head.

I had an intake 2.30 clearance problem with valako's prototype dart heads milled to get 9.6:1 comp in a 454 mag with stock Pistons. Cam was 502/465 hp advanced 4 deg.

A heads up to OP to check regardless as I'm not sure what he is or isn't doing with his build. Just simply stating a fact. That cam was only 571 lift if I recall.

Exactly it's not max lift that gets you on a BBC until you get over .850

No offense guys but I'm not mailing anyone a check and waiting on them to send me something back. PayPal is completely safe for both parties and used on almost every trading site around. I don't even have a check book anyway...lol

I ran a Marine Kinetics cam with 114 LSA and if I remember right around 237/243 and .645/.610 with standard Stainless Marine risers and never had an issue with reversion. Not all manifolds are equal. Gils are more prone for reversion due to their design than for example, Stainless Marine. Due to this you would need a longer riser with the Gil. Others will chime in, but IMO duration is far more important when it comes to reversion than the lift of the cam. What you posted is by no means a wild lift number.

OP. Good idea to check for clearance regardless. Just gave you an example of what can happen when installing aftermarket performance heads, then usually leads to larger valves, possibly bump the compression. That alone is enough to check as the stock 365 mag Pistons don't have much intake valve relief. What causes the biggest issue with p2v clearance is if you did by chance advance your cam which changes your valve timing and decrease the int clearance and increase the exh. Not a big deal here just thought I'd give you some advice if you haven't run across it before.

I will pass the info along to my mechanic. I know the heads are dart pro 1 that's pretty much it.

Usually reversion is caused from too much overlap. As duration numbers get higher, so does overlap. As lobe separation gets narrower/tighter, theres more overlap for a given duration.

A cam with a 114 LSA, can have more overlap , than a 112 LSA, depending on the duration.

Combustion chamber design, can induce exhaust flow reversion as well .

And of course, exhaust manifold design.

My buddy ran crane 236/245 114 LSA cams in his 454s, with stock crappy merc iron center rise manifolds that came on 454/502 mags, for over 10 years , without any reversion. I was surprised when we took the cams out, that they were that big. On oso, that combo would have meant immediate water reversion. He has since went to stellings and dry tails, but prior to that, never had a reversion issue.

So what would be the most "cost effective" manifolds to go with?

Offshore777 has a nice set of Gils with long tails for sale in the swap shop. They look like new and he only wants $1100 for a set of them. Depending on the specs of your cam you should be fine with them. Are Gils the best? No! Are they bad? No! For what you are building they will work just fine.

Man that would be great!

I'll text him in the morning... Thanks

Stainless Marine. Buy them once and then you don't have to pay for a second engine.

Well I may have too, I may lose out in these Gil's for sale!

Like black baja said look for a set of stainless marine manifolds and risers. There are a few sets for sale as of recent. I saw some on Craigslist and eBay by accident also. Never hear any issues with cracks and ruining an engine with them. Gil's are fine but always risk for cracks and the stainless marines will give you same performance.

Do the stainless marine manifolds allow for the risers to be rotated inward to help with spacing issues? I know the Gil risers bolt to the manifold with 4 bolts, so they are pretty much fixed in one orientation unless you cut and reweld the flange. Seems like I recall that the SM's use some kind of collar to attach the riser.

What's the deal with Eddie Marine???

Nobody has anything to say about Eddie marine manifolds?

Them seem like the best bargain for $1799 and offer dry tails for $500 more.

We have used Eddies on a bunch of boats they are much better than Gil's and easier to work around...

SM's use a flange with v-band clamp

I've recently spent a ton of time comparing the options on dry exhaust and finally settled on stainless marine as the best bang for your buck. My boat had EMI exhaust on it and the quality of the stainless marine manifolds seems to be much better. One example is the flange that mates to the heads. The EMI's also have drain plugs at the bottom of each of the exhaust runners, which I never liked. To totally drain them you would have to remove all of them; removing just the water inlet wouldn't do this because of how the manifold is shaped. On the stainless marine manifolds there is only the water inlet on the bottom and it appears just removing the inlet hose will allow the manifold to drain fully. Finally stainless marine sends you the manifolds first and you take your measurements for them to build the risers from that, which takes a lot of guess work out of whether things will fit or not.

Hardin Marine Seaward Series???

My Stainless Marine exhaust are from 1990 :)

Gee wiz just go buy some already. Lol. Gains will be minimal anyway if any on 500 hp or less. Just find a set of used ones here on OSO.

If you see some tag me in them, every time I find some they are sold
And the ad is old, or I'm a day late...

When your spending $3k per set you want to get the best bang for your buck. I'm not a baller like most people on here, just a construction worker trying to have nice stuff. Sorry if I pissed people off, I thought the forums were for questions and answers...

I think Sick Stinger on here has some Stainless Marine exhaust in the Swap shop for sale at a good price.

Some of us live on a dirt floor. Not everyone is a baller here. Well maybe on Saturday nights with a rented pimp suit. Lol.