Hydraulic steering
 

Replaced the helm, cable and also the transom assembly and still have some play. Go figure it will just be there with the standard power steering Merc setup. Wouldn't mind going external rams but don't want any holes drilled below the water line. Thinking of installing an internal hydraulic steering similar to what is installed on inboards. Issue I'm unsure of is, can it handle the torque of over 500 hp single motor and 11K boat?

This is a pre-repower pic, but note the water line is above the gimbal ring
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps3f473e8d.jpg

Your putting all that leverage/load on the tiller arm connection.it doesnt really matter how much you build/overbuild whats inside the boat, your still putting it all thru that little tiller arm.

Good point, guess maybe the real question is will a internal setup work without play or at least a lot less play then the standard power steering ram setup?

you could start rebuilding everything to the point its pretty tight, but it wont last all that long. Especially with a b3 hanging off the back.The holes arent a problem if you seal it correctly.

If you decide to go external- I've got a nice Latham Twin ram set up I'll make you a good deal on.

Everything is not more the 5 years old and not that many hours. Changing the helm and cable did help but didn't remove that much slop. I really don't want the rams outside below the water line, so if it can be done above then I'm open. Otherwise I would like to find an internal system that would work.

As before the transom assembly is only one season old and is a HP assembly

Geometry is not your friend as far as keeping things above the waterline.

Where is the slop comming from?

The only difference between and HP and non HP assembly is the gimble ring. The gimble ring on an HP is thicker where the wear pads on the drive slide. Yes, they also use different pins but I doubt they are really any stronger than the standard screw in style. Either way, neither has an advantage over the other when it come to developing play.

The play will usually develop in the swivel shaft due do the high loads placed on it. External steering is going to remove some of these loads from this shaft and help it last longer. There really isn't anything you are going to do inside the boat that will solve your issue. With an inboard, the hydraulic ram is connected directly to the rudder inside the boat. There is NO WAY for you to do this with a sterndrive inside of the boat. If you want tight steering you need to be connected directly to the source that is steering the boat. You already have at least 16 holes in the boat with the bennett tabs, what are a few more holes, especially if you do them yourself and do them right!

I think its the cable. Motor off and there is 3 to 5 inch slop with new cable and helm. I do notice on plane, more so idling out thru no-wake. Its a nit from my thought, but if I can get rid of it, or at least 80% that would be great