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Just put them in to the correct depth, I would use Yamabond #4 on the threads, hold the stud with the allen while tightening the nut. all will be good

Quote:

Originally Posted by class6 (Post 4526646)

Just put them in to the correct depth, I would use Yamabond #4 on the threads, hold the stud with the allen while tightening the nut. all will be good

Thanks...Would you use it on both sides of the gasket, too or RTV like Ultra Copper?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92cobalt243 (Post 4526604)

Finally got these manifolds ready...but tell me if this a problem...I took all 4 pieces to the welder to fill the passages (the studs were still in the manifolds). When I took them to another machinist to clean up the surfaces they said the aluminum threads stripped out & needed timeserts, then a resurface...They look real good, but I've never used thread inserts before.

So tell me if this is a problem or not...I don't know if the original studs actually reached into the water jackets of the manifold (I did not pull them). Tonight I threaded the new stainless studs into the timeserts & they pretty much insert to varying depths...some penetrating too deep to get a washer & nut on. Are the studs SUPPOSED to loosely screw in at the proper (equal) depth and then rely totally on a thread sealer (ARP?) to keep the water out of the very same joint I just welded up? What's the proper method for studs, timeserts, and thread sealer?

I also have the EMI exhaust and the studs do not make it into the water jacket. I did have one go in a bit further then the others but could still get the washer and nut on. If your studs are loose just sitting in the threads then I'm thinking they may have been installed using cheap tools. Cheap taps can throw tolerances off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllDodge (Post 4526661)

The studs are loose fitting in the insert until they reach the bottom. The inserts are not loose in the manifolds. I suppose I can get some longer studs on the few and use a good sealer...but it seams like the thread contact would be the seal-point, not the bottom. Were your EMI manifolds the newer dry flange or the older style wet flange joint?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92cobalt243 (Post 4526681)

They are the newer dry joint, about 4 or 5 years old now. Suffer from CRS so everything starts blurring together:confused:

Doesn't the stud have to thread to the bottom of a time-sert which creates the anchor into the base material (manifold)...if so I would need some longer studs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by class6 (Post 4526646)

Just put them in to the correct depth, I would use Yamabond #4 on the threads, hold the stud with the allen while tightening the nut. all will be good

class6-would you do the stud set up allowing to cure before attempting to clamp/torque to 30#? Or try to make it happen all at once?

All at once so everything sets in place. When you tighten the nut while holding the stud. nut and insert become tight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by class6 (Post 4527337)

All at once so everything sets in place. When you tighten the nut while holding the stud. nut and insert become tight.

Thanks for the response...would you also use that stuff as a gasket dressing, light smear?

I use old school Indian head. I still have cans that are 25 years old. Still works great. What gaskets are you using