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Is anyone running an in the tank fuel pump?
So I am probley going to get a new fuel tank made and was thinking of putting an electric pump in the tank. Has anyone done this? What's your thoughts? I would think that they would stay cool, and as long as the tanks baffeled good it should be protected from the vibrations and impacts. Was thinking of the add on aremotive or something similar so it comes with the mount. Thoughts?
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Since Ive replaced three now over the last 2 years in my vehicles I wouldn't consider it. They are so chinsey also. At least easy to get at on a boat. Never thought about it to be honest.
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Many of the wake and ski boats use them, see many with Ilmor engines. Unable to say about the high performance motors. I like the idea of external pumps for ease of access
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I have never had any luck with external pumps. But all I have ever had was Holley Blue or red. I just thought the heat and lack of air moving in a boat would kill an external quick.
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Mastercraft has done so since the 90's in certain models - currently all Indmar including with the Ford Raptor engine of theirs installs all fuel pumps in the gas tank. All the wakeboard boats are going this route and a lot has been set up that way.
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Kinda what I'm hearing is the smaller more inland ski boats etc use them but how would they hold up out hammering big waves. Like you mentioned it would have to be protected and well secured somehow to hold up I'd think. Good thread though but I think I'd stay external mounted pump. Easy access and proven to work in all environments.
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I looked into this hard a year or so ago as a way to defeat the dreaded symptom known as vapor lock. There was one guy who had built a small intermediate tank with an internal pump and return system. Looked like a cool set up but costly and would not work well for my situation. External pump and tank return will be the easiest route I'm sure. Good luck !
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Ran across this. Looks interesting and fairly simple if not costly. If my external ever gives out I may consider going to something like this because the gas keeps the pump cool and generally pumps don't like to suck fuel out of the tank as you might have with an external.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZSBssihF8U |
I just wish someone made an inexpensive lid / mount. The pumps are relatively cheep at 120. But they want an arm and a leg for the bulkhead. If I knew how to seal the wires up I would make one. I have been looking at car fuel pumps too that are all one unit.
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the problem with V hulls is the fuel pump depth when going with in the tank fuel pumps is not long enough. I wanted to go this route 100 % but changed my mind. Anyways here is what Mastercraft has used for over 20 years even when ILmors were NOT around for the marine side.
Not my video but found this youtube link for reference viewing. The problem with their in tank fuel pump, is the bottom round fuel filter that needs to be changed but never does. Common killer of these fuel pumps and Im sure this is what happened to this guy as this is his first time pulling the fuel pump as you can tell by the video. Anyways you can see the bottom round filter when he pulls the fuel pump out, I have actually seen this filter a completely blackish brownish from never ever being changed. For some reason the vid starts 5 min into it. Back it up if need to be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhn1CwEhzzM |
they are pushing them big time for high H/P and EFI setups, I have stayed with either aeromotive or magna fuel setups, no issues with either, I think the oems started in tank pumps for ease of packaging, one draw back is that fuel in the tank is used to cool the pump, so if people continue to run at low fuel levels a lot..pumps fail.
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Walbro makes some decent in tank pumps for big hp apps. They draw less current than the aeromotive and big holley units . Run one of the large sock pre filters, and a delco secondary, should never have to worry about pulling the bowls or needle valves on a holley for years. Cleans up the engine room a bit also. But def not a plug and play proposition.
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The Holley Hydromat would be a great pick-up solution for V bottom boats: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/
I think the in-tank system is a great idea and I would do it right now, but I feel a little uncomfortable about how to rig a water/fuel separator on the pressure side...any ideas? There are USA made, hi-flow, good quality in tank pumps available. Another reason the in-tank set up appeals to me is that its easier doing a complete engine overhaul than changing out one of Merc's block mounted, cool fuel pumps!!! |
I ran the Permacool fuel filter/water psi separator at 60+psi for years. And I can attest it separated water. Got a bunch once.
I would think any of the spin on's can handle a good amt of psi as they are set up like oil filters and as we know they all handle a lot of psi. If you want to ensure the delivery of clean and water-free fuel to your engine, you'd better use one of these filter and water separator kits from Perma-Cool. They're compatible with diesel, gasoline, methanol, ethanol, and all fuel additives. Their high-efficiency filter elements remove harmful contaminants that can clog carburetors and injectors, which would otherwise restrict performance. They'll withstand up to 90 psi line |
Thanks SB- I just looked at the Permacool 81794 and it takes 90 psi...I guess I have been in the dark this whole time thinking I had to use one of little AC/Delo metal filters like the HP500efi used, but its fuel/water separator was low pressure being before the block mounted pump. Thanks for the heads up.
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I'm running my seperators on the pressure side.
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this looks pretty easy: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-132
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Thanks for the link BUP. I'm not going to read 800 posts, but that system seems overly complex to me and a closer cousin to an automotive system. I would say that in-tank pumps (that are of quality) have shown to be at least as reliable as their external pump counter parts. I have never had the pleasure of replacing an in-tank pump on an auto, but I have replaced the external Merc one on a boat in 100 degrees and I can tell ya, I would have gave a couple thousand at the time to just lift an access port on the floor and have the pump within easy reach!! Not only that, but a high % of boaters in warmer climes will have occasional issues with hot starting. If the in-tank pump ever does shoot craps, you can pick up a cheapy anywhere and still be on the water at least. Many of the small marinas are not likely to carry the right external pump if any and its going to be $$$
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The off road guys have run alot of r and d on these. Lots of water exposure,,vibration and impact ect.
I think for them it is dealing with vapor lock on high hp holley carb aps more than anything, that steers them to the in tank route |
I run one in my boat, Its the complete fuel pump, with fuel gauge and smart pick-ups. I don't have any pics of it right now, but its a really clean set-up.
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So far this is the least expensive in tank I have found. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd227.htm It's certainly not long enough, and I don't care for the pump zip tied to a plastic tube. But it's nothing that can't be modified safely. The only question is with the wire mounting. If it doesn't have studs I won't splice wires in a tank. Making new sillicone wires is no biggie.... It seems that the most expensive part of making a bulkhead pump mount myself is the wire fittings. Hermetically sealed electrical studs run from 50- 200$ I still need to call a few places but at this point to make one would run about 300$ Pluss the time to weld everything up. So it's probley going to be an external unfortunately. But the search continues lol....
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Originally Posted by justintocars
(Post 4523677)
So far this is the least expensive in tank I have found. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd227.htm It's certainly not long enough, and I don't care for the pump zip tied to a plastic tube. But it's nothing that can't be modified safely. The only question is with the wire mounting. If it doesn't have studs I won't splice wires in a tank. Making new sillicone wires is no biggie.... It seems that the most expensive part of making a bulkhead pump mount myself is the wire fittings. Hermetically sealed electrical studs run from 50- 200$ I still need to call a few places but at this point to make one would run about 300$ Pluss the time to weld everything up. So it's probley going to be an external unfortunately. But the search continues lol....
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[QUOTE=justintocars;4523677]So far this is the least expensive in tank I have found. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd227.htm It's certainly not long enough, and I don't care for the pump zip tied to a plastic tube. But it's nothing that can't be modified safely. The only question is with the wire mounting. If it doesn't have studs I won't splice wires in a tank. Making new sillicone wires is no biggie.... It seems that the most expensive part of making a bulkhead pump mount myself is the wire fittings. Hermetically sealed electrical studs run from 50
Most if not all OEM use an epoxy for thru fittings. In the past I have used Devcon and it has worked amazing for wire pass thru. I'm lucky enough to work in the OEM and had Walbro make me a one off pump to fit my tank. |
Originally Posted by turbom700
(Post 4524208)
Most if not all OEM use an epoxy for thru fittings. In the past I have used Devcon and it has worked amazing for wire pass thru. I'm lucky enough to work in the OEM and had Walbro make me a one off pump to fit my tank. |
Originally Posted by justintocars
(Post 4523677)
So far this is the least expensive in tank I have found. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd227.htm It's certainly not long enough, and I don't care for the pump zip tied to a plastic tube. But it's nothing that can't be modified safely. The only question is with the wire mounting. If it doesn't have studs I won't splice wires in a tank. Making new sillicone wires is no biggie.... It seems that the most expensive part of making a bulkhead pump mount myself is the wire fittings. Hermetically sealed electrical studs run from 50- 200$ I still need to call a few places but at this point to make one would run about 300$ Pluss the time to weld everything up. So it's probley going to be an external unfortunately. But the search continues lol....
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