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Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4529062)
Anodes will assist in giving more material to sacrifice, but does not do the same job as the mercathode.
I have one of the Merc probes and its a piece of wire that has been platinum coated around a small nylon stick. You could probably get close if you silver plated a 18AWG wire, but not exact due to differences in properties The 2nd paragraph is what I'm trying to get away from if possible. "Known Knowns" seem to lacking with MerCathode testing and usage. Other than being unreliable and a PITA to test.:D |
These can be helpful. If you're on shorepower or in a marina overnight. Extra protection doesn't hurt.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...owpxoCXPvw_wcB |
Originally Posted by I.C.U.Lookin
(Post 4529376)
These can be helpful. If you're on shorepower or in a marina overnight. Extra protection doesn't hurt.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...owpxoCXPvw_wcB |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4528483)
Do you ever have the boat in the water, slipped, overnight, etc., WITH the shorepower attached? This is when the Mercathode is most important.
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
(Post 4529370)
Thanks for the info.
The 2nd paragraph is what I'm trying to get away from if possible. "Known Knowns" seem to lacking with MerCathode testing and usage. Other than being unreliable and a PITA to test.:D a. MODELS WITH ELECTRODE MOUNTED ON BOAT TRANSOM Fresh Water Areas Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas Quicksilver VOA Meter 7.5 - 10.5 millivolts 8.8 - 10.5 millivolts Digital Meter 750 - 1050 millivolts 880 - 1050 millivolts b. MODELS WITH ELECTRODE MOUNTED ON BOTTOM OF TRANSOM ASSEMBLY Fresh Water Areas Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas Quicksilver VOA Meter 6.2 - 11.8 millivolts 7.5 - 11.8 millivolts Digital Meter 620 - 1180 millivolts 750 - 1180 millivolts Start on page 7A-20. http://www.boatfix.com/merc/servmanl/14/14a7.pdf BTW if your not seeing any paint missing off the drive after being in the water my guess is your fine |
Originally Posted by Tractionless
(Post 4529379)
I don't fish.........hahaha good idea for extra peace of mind.
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Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4529394)
It's real easy to test, after sitting for 24 hours and the boat plugged in connect the probe to the positive connection of a digital multimeter. The other connection goes to boats battery ground. Set meter scale to 2000mV and drop probe in the water within 6 inches of the rear of the drive. There are two types of anodes and yours is listed at the bottom set
a. MODELS WITH ELECTRODE MOUNTED ON BOAT TRANSOM Fresh Water Areas Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas Quicksilver VOA Meter 7.5 - 10.5 millivolts 8.8 - 10.5 millivolts Digital Meter 750 - 1050 millivolts 880 - 1050 millivolts b. MODELS WITH ELECTRODE MOUNTED ON BOTTOM OF TRANSOM ASSEMBLY Fresh Water Areas Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas Quicksilver VOA Meter 6.2 - 11.8 millivolts 7.5 - 11.8 millivolts Digital Meter 620 - 1180 millivolts 750 - 1180 millivolts Start on page 7A-20. http://www.boatfix.com/merc/servmanl/14/14a7.pdf BTW if your not seeing any paint missing off the drive after being in the water my guess is your fine |
I ditched my mercathode system. I do a few overnights a year, and slip it for one full week every summer. No issues at all. I boat in freshwater only.
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How fast the anodes are eaten up is something to look into as well. Once 50 % gone they need to be replace asap or sooner.
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Originally Posted by 79formula
(Post 4530426)
I ditched my mercathode system. I do a few overnights a year, and slip it for one full week every summer. No issues at all. I boat in freshwater only.
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4530520)
How fast the anodes are eaten up is something to look into as well. Once 50 % gone they need to be replace asap or sooner.
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