Interresting teardown
 

I'm getting ready to rebuild my boat engine. I bought it two years ago knowing it had issues, it was running very rich, I pitched the edlebrock carb in the dumpster put on a 750cfm Holly marine carb, pitched the dinky flame arrestor and got a big one, added 12degrees timing and all was well. The fuel pump went out and that's when it all went south. I must have damaged the diaphragm it pumped the crankcase full of fuel and washed the bearings out, needle and seats where fine. got the engine on the stand and found it had a hydraulic roller valve train Good. Pulled a head and saw fly cuts on top of the bores for valve relief? went back to the head sure enough monster valves. 049 big oval port heads. pulled the camshaft comp cams 260h. it gets better, the boat has silent choice exaust now were for the air to go. good 4 bolt block with cast crap for a rotating assembly. Back in the day I built loads of 440 mopar drag engines, I lost a good friend because a eagle h beam rod broke on a 500hp motor that was the 90s who is the go to today. my pockets aren't deep enough to go with oliver rods. bearings and ring gap marine builds are uncharted waters for me.

You're friend passed away because a rod broke? I think some have liked the Molinar (sp?) rods. Isdedpeeps on here used them I think.

Molnar cranks and rods are pretty commonly used here but not really sure what it is exactly what your looking for. Advice on ring gaps and bearing clearances? Or rotating assm? If your. It going crazy on build you'd be safe with pretty much any imported 4340 forged internals. Molnar is just in gr but will cost you a little more money.

ooohhh I did call him a friend, he was a stupid pr2ck that thought he could win a race doing a 7500rpm water box burnout, you most likely have one in your hood. you know the type. Thanks for the tip, I will google molinar.

Rob,

I have never had an issue with Eagles good stuff, including a couple of 650 hp 440 stroker drag enignes. If the rod broke it was likely caused by something else.

For what you are doing I would not hesitate to use them, just make sure to check everything 100%. If you want to spend a little more money Callies is probably the next step up without spending a mint.

What kind of power are you trying to make ? The stock GM steel cranks will live forever at moderate HP levels.

I would use stock GM forged cranks and 7/16 rods in just about any build. Seems to be a lot of them in the swap also. 4" anyway.

The rod parted just below the wristpin. a lot of people are telling me the same thing, Eagle stuff will handle 1000hp. The crank in it now is cast, stock rods 3/8 rod bolts, a forged rotating assembly is a must for me. I have to keep the build modest she's a old boat with a Alpha drive so 400/450hp. A fresh crisp engine able to do long runs at 3500/3800 without filling the bilge with oil and broken parts. I talked to my machinist today same thing Eagle, he is swamped with work he said he would sneak me in being one of the few willing to do are own assembly work. I have two 427 GM forged cranks but no 454. I sure would like to bypass the silent choice but I don't want to turn it into a cop caller, haven't been stopped in two years not bad for a tramp boater like me. Thanks for your advice Bill.

Thought u had a good 4 bolt block. There's a bunch of used blocks around. Look on Craigslist in your area. I wouldn't be afraid to run 2 bolt main or cast in anything 450 hp plus or minus. Your drive will brake before your engine. Anything over 370 hp in front of an alpha is pushing it. Key with engine build is good balance job. Your 049 heads are good. Just do a reasonable rebuild and cost should be minimal.

have two 427 cranks no4" I will pony up for a respectable bottom end. Yes I was hinting abought bearing material and ring end gap. this is my first marine build and want to get it right. oh love that picture big launch.

yes good 4 bolt block I have, I just cant bring myself to throw 29 year old rods that are stretched out worse than Madona's pee hole back in it. I pamper the drive, change the lube twice each season the drain oil has always been clean, no holeshots just run hard as hell when the big lake is calm.

First, what Edelbrock was that? I love their Carbs on boats. Boats are a different world then street motors and they are built tough and simple and easy to fix a rich or lean.
Second, an alpha drive you don't want anything stupid. Alphas behind BB's were a big mistake for Mercruiser even for their 330 BBC and is the reason the Bravo came out.
Third, what comes around goes around. Eagle's name has gone to $hit over the years and Scat has become more desired. Figure that out.
Forth, this is what I did 6 years ago an I run the piss out of it in a heavy 19' Nova.

1980-90, 14015445 (7.4) 454 - 4 Bolt Main Big Block

Dipped And Honed The Decks And Cylinders Cut .060 Over

Block Was Detailed With All Casting Debris Removed

Scat 9000 Crank 4.25, 496 Stroker - cut .020 under

Scat 26385716 - 6.385 in. Connecting Rods - Floating Pins -I Beam Forged 4340 steel

Howards Cams 120255-12 - Max Torque Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 288/294, Lift .585/.610, 112 L/S

Howards Valve Springs 98636 (recomended) - 130# / 330#

Comp 780-16 Spring Retainers

Cloyes Gear 9-203 - Cloyes Wear Plate, .031 in. Thick

CCA-205 Cam Button

Maxspeeding Hydraulic Retrofit Roller Lifters

Probe 496 Dome Top +18.0cc, .060 - SRS - PHV Series Piston Set

Cloyes True Double Roller Timing Chain

Mahle - 4.310 Plasma Moly Coated Piston Rings

Melling 10778C (Anti-Cavitation) Oil Pump

Melling HV Oil Pump Shaft

New Solid Harmonic Balancer

Rotating Assembly Fully Balanced

Trick Flow Chromoly Pushrods TFS-21417800-8

Heads 6272990 / Date Codes 1/25/81 and 1/29/81 / Open / 118cc / 3 Angle Valve / porting services - Mullen Race Engine Cylinder Heads, Carson, Calif

Summit Racing / SUM-V8030-8 Stainless Steel Valves 1.880 in.

Summit Racing / SUM-V8022-8 Stainless Steel Valves 2.190 in.

Chevrolet Performance Head Bolt Kits 12367779

ARP 1.90 Rocker Studs

Norris S/S 1.7 Roller Rockers

EDELBROCK BBC R2 AIRGAP INTAKE

Pro Comp 2752 Fuel Pump

MSD Ignition

Pro Comp Distributor

Super Stock Coil

8mm Accel Hi Performance Wires

New Single Wire Alternator

Mini (gear reduction and fully marine) 3HP Starter

Edelbrock 800 Carburetor

12" Aluminum, Oval Air Cleaner With K&N Filter

Brass Freeze Plugs

Stainless Steel Bolt Set

4" Stainless Steel "Tall" Risers

496 MerCruiser Exhaust Manifolds

Sherwood Motor Mounted Raw Water Pump

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Clevite 77 Cam Bearings

Federal-Mogal 4400 M20 Main Bearings

King Engine Rod Bearings CR 808 HPN 020


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Edelbrock 7202 Intakes Gasket Set

Trick Flow Gasket Set

Fel Pro Q2904 Rear Main Seal

Fel Pro 1804 Oil pan gasket

Fel-17040 Head Gaskets

well not sure on how much power you are looking to make, But I have run several non forged setups, beat the hell out of them, never had a issue due to them, at power level 90% of marine engines are, put in a set of ARP rod bolts, make sure rods are round, crank good, set bearing clearances and roll on..buts thats me..

Sounds like someone was trying to go for the gusto with a peanut motor.
A forged mag crank 7/16 rods and a set of trw minidome ls6 replacement pistons should all balance properly and still give you the right compression if you have 118cc or so chambers.
May have to buy a new flywheel.
Odds are , it will offer less vibration at mid rpm than before also....

You may have to buy a complete shortblock to get these goodies we speak of though, but will save some hassle