Oil temp locations...??
 

Oil temps... where do you read? What's the temps you see and like...

I always read after cooler at filter mount up top, I see after a hard run 220-230 most... average running it's at 180-190... last season I could not get them above 150-160 no matter what I did... that was after a safer tune was set I can assume cooler piston temps led to less oil temp.

I am adding temp stats this year, I have taps in pans so I thought about loving temp senders there and read what oil in pan was, or maybe just leave as is...

What do you guys do for readings? Where and what's temps? What should it be in pan?

Usual oil flow is out of engine, into filter, then into cooler, returning to engine. The logic is filtering hot oil is more effective than cold. Any temps read in filter housing would be before the cooler. I prefer to read temps before the cooler and not to exceed 260. I always run straight weight 40 or 50 weight oil. The oil temperature needs to get above 212 to boil out condensate and by-products of combustion. Oil thermostats are designed to get the oil temperature up even during light loads to minimize moisture build up. If the oil cooler is large, an oil thermostat is more important.

sounds like you may need a oil thermostat, had the same issue with my old setup, added canton thermostat and temps stayed constant

Buddy's 489's - Hardin t-stat coolers, 190 t-stats, temp at the filter housing, 170 - 190 after the stats open, 210 - 220 after a long, hard run, 20W50 Shaffer's Synthetic.

While we're on the subject does anyone know the pipe thread size on an 1996 Merc. 454 oil filter housing plug? Damn Gaffrig temp. Gauge didn't come with bushings nor the temp. Sending unit (electric). Also what sending units are you guys running? Thanks for any help you can lend.

Keith

A 15w50 at 230 degrees, has same or less viscosity, than a 10w30 at 180 degrees. A 15w40, has similar viscosity at 240 deg, as a 5w20 at 180 degrees. Something to think about

Also, you do not need to get oil to 212, to boil anything out. Theres millions of vehicles, and boats with stock mercruiser 454s, 502s, that never get to 200 degrees, and dont have water in their oil.

You need the sender that's calibrated for your gauge, I think its 3/8 pipe

Bob Teague always recommended to take oil temp readings from the pan as that is where the motor is drawing oil from. Clearly not as easy if the motors are in the boat though.

I pick up my oil temp in the filter housing.

Ken

In the pan on my wet sump engines and in the oil tank on the new dry sump engine.

interesting questions, whats more important to know , how hot is coming out or what temp is is going back to the pan . Both important things to know I would assume.

I always monitored going back in... my buddy wants me to monitor at pan now..

what you see at pan?

180 / 190 at cruise and 220 or so when running WOT.
It drops right down once you come off the throttle.
This was on a smal block ford in the pan.

Cool, yes Bill said put them in pan this year.. so gonna change it.

I dont think you would see much diff from pan to filter housing before cooler..

mine were in housing after cooler before..

Temp location is a matter of Preference and Convenience , you just have to be aware that some locations will show a higher temp than others .
Biggest thing is make sure your sender is immersed in oil completely , some senders in oil filter blocks only have the tip in the flowing oil . They have a
rather large hysteresis from actual if that is the case.

Went out this past weekend in S. Fla. 75* ambient temps. Water temp. Probably a little lower, I didn't check. I installed the temp. Probes in the OE oil filter housing on raw water cooled 1996 7.4 Lx MPI's. I noticed the oil temps. Run damn near the 140* raw water temp at or around idle then raise as rpm's do. I was seeing 190* while cruising at 2500 rpm and 220* when I bumped it up to 3000 rpm. I guess my worries of not boiling off condensation are now gone even though I've never had discolored oil upon their changes.

My vette has a oil temp gauge, 10qt dry sump LS3, I have yet to see the temp above 180* this spring.
If GM is fine with those temps and not worried about getting it higher to "burn off condensation" then why worry about lower temps in boats.


40* weather, after 1 hour on the highway:

http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s1/...68465476-3.jpg

i still laugh when someone posts that the oil needs to be at 212 to boil the water off,water boils at 212,oil does not.so many people are confused about this myth.

I believe a better phrasing would be the water needs to reach 212, but it will evaporate much lower as the temp difference to air is more important, just as water evaporates off of a hot bath into the cooler air well under boiling the boiling point.

Correct, for all liquids it's just that the closer the temperature is to it's boiling point the easier/faster the liquid evaporates.

GM does some strange stuff at times. Our Catty shows 12.6V on the display and only shows more then that (13 to 14.5V) right after starting.

An unknowing person might see 250 degrees and freak out. Wonder if the sensor is located right after the cooler?

I was thinking of this thread a while back while changing hydraulic fluid in my tractor that was all milky. I poured some into a coffee can and put it on the stove at 250ish and waited a couple hours, still milky. Let it cool down overnight and repeated but heated it up to 300 for a couple more hours and it pretty well cleared up. I was suprised it took so long.

Should gone to 375 and thrown in some french fries...

Many car manufacturers lie to you with qhat the guages show. Many years ago, Chrysler owners where coming in with complaints of low oil psi, especially at idle. The response, being sick of dealing with customers complaining and not believing them that there was no issue, a year or to later on next round of new cars Chrysler upped what the guage read. :) Oh, the power of computers. LOL.

Oh jesus now my gauges are all incorrect?
 

Is this something Chrysler admitted to? Did you reprogram the computer personally? Maybe they fixed the problem?

So I guess it`s a GM conspiracy that the oil temp is inaccurate .. So how does this inaccurate GM gauge work then, at ambient temps it reads same but as it heats up it reads lower ?? is that it?
Maybe the outside temp gauge is reading too high?
Maybe it`s really 80* but GM wants me to wear a sweater.

Maybe the Russians hacked my garage thermostat which also reads the same temp.


http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s5/...80563713-3.jpg
http://33outlaw.zenfolio.com/img/s6/...80563829-3.jpg

My hot oil pressure reads 25# I should probably call GM and tell em they forgot to reprogram it to read higher.




I don`t get it , your Caddy shows a lower voltage at rest then it does when the alternator is running!? Wow thats crazy , more voltage when the alternator is running??! i`d contact GM , tell em your alternator is charging your battery and making more voltage, sounds like a recall issue.


wtf people

I put mine right here.............there's a 1/4 npt plug in it from the factory, guess Merc may use it on some other engines

Doh !

Well, I guess I should have been more clear. Not all gauges in all cars are lying to you. LOL.

Typically only happens when the Manufacture realizes that a bunch of owners will continually complain about something that the factory feels is totally fine.

2 examples: I worked at a Chrysler / Toyota dealer.....learned this during a new vehicle roll out service training...straight from the horses mouth. At the time, coolant temp as brought to 210*F and all the old timers where schitting themselves thinking this was messed up, even ith ust having a C thru H temp gauge. This got changed so it would read in the middle when fully hot...instead of near 3/4's. Yes, Chrysler did this thru programming also. No, we could not change the programming in the shop.

Oil psi on some cars would go down to 15 or so psi at idle. People would freak......as I mentioned....they changed this without creating more pressure. :)

You haven't heard about some radio's in modern cars adding to your exhaust note (inside the cabin of course) to make you think your sports car or truck sounds cooler ?

Maybe need Ricky Ricardo to esplain
No, this is the heads up display like your vette. My previous post was all with the motor running, nothing was at rest with the motor OFF.

Prior to start, have no idea, never looked. Last month was checking things and put my meter on the battery and found 12.1V so had the battery replaced. Then was checking the heads up and noticed the 12.6V and wondered if the ALT had an issue. I'm use to seeing around 14V when the car is running all the time, unless there is some kind of heavy load. So I put the heads up on the BAT, stated the car and noted the voltage increase to 14.5V. After a short time it dropped down to 12.6 or 7V (don't remember).

BTW: Hate to tell you this...no I don't..lol.....person I know became very wealthy (to me) a few yrs before normal retirement age. Was average income just before. How did he do it ? Invented an additive to put in soda's (won't tell you which one's bought it) to make it stale / flat tasting after a certain amt of time unopened. Believe it or not.

When I see him I call him fuker...and he just laughs. I like my soda. :)

It's more of a technological world we live in...you don't know what you don't know...until you find out first hand for the most part.

Does your Caddy have an alternator with a clutch ? Many vehicles have these now. That could explain it.

Edit in: Guess not. It's a mechanical one way that decouples during belt quick deceleration.

Don't know, never thought of looking for something like that, its a 2012 SRX (actually the wife's car, mines a diesel pickup).

Most likely computer controlled voltage regulator. Cranks to 14 to recharge after starting, then holds system at 12.7.