496 ho electrical issue?
#41
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I got a call from Jeff yesterday. He said the IAC driver would intermittently work and when he opened it, it had been hot enough to melt some of the solder out and possibly contact a point next to it. Replaced the driver and all is well. I should have it back in next week so I will report back if all is fixed with it.
#44
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Well I got a chance to get the pcm back in the boat and fire it up. Not good... The boat will fire up and run perfect for anywhere from 2-10 seconds then loses power shuts off. It doesn't stumble or run rough just acts like the key is being turned off. I sent it back to Jeff at whipple today he said it may be something to do with the "clock" in the pcm. I hope that fixes the issues as I don't really want to buy a new one!
#45
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I am about to re approach my problem from the end last season.
Everything seems normal, no stumbles no alarms ect
BUT when I fire up the starboard cold, voltmeter shows 12V or less at idle, though running fine, and the engine just shuts off in 4-5 minutes.
and yes the shutdowns started the day I noticed low voltage
volts come up to normal at 1K RPM.
so I'm guessing I have a lack of, or loss of voltage at idle
on following attempts (out of cold/rich mode it seems) it shuts down sooner, like 2-3 minutes at most.
My question is how does this stall the engine at idle? Is the most likely culprit fuel pump shutdown?
my question too is why does it start and run completely normally for that 5 minutes cold but shorter once it is seeing some temp?
don't these circumstances narrow it down?
Everything seems normal, no stumbles no alarms ect
BUT when I fire up the starboard cold, voltmeter shows 12V or less at idle, though running fine, and the engine just shuts off in 4-5 minutes.
and yes the shutdowns started the day I noticed low voltage
volts come up to normal at 1K RPM.
so I'm guessing I have a lack of, or loss of voltage at idle
on following attempts (out of cold/rich mode it seems) it shuts down sooner, like 2-3 minutes at most.
My question is how does this stall the engine at idle? Is the most likely culprit fuel pump shutdown?
my question too is why does it start and run completely normally for that 5 minutes cold but shorter once it is seeing some temp?
don't these circumstances narrow it down?
Last edited by Rippem; 04-17-2017 at 11:52 AM.
#46
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Got the pcm put back in and the boat stays running now and idles as it should. I have only ran it on the hose and it will idle all day long with no codes. When the RPM's go over 2,000 it throws knock sensor codes for both sensors. The engine sounds great and idles and revs as it should. I have no idea what would trip both knock sensors simultaneously....
#47
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Got the pcm put back in and the boat stays running now and idles as it should. I have only ran it on the hose and it will idle all day long with no codes. When the RPM's go over 2,000 it throws knock sensor codes for both sensors. The engine sounds great and idles and revs as it should. I have no idea what would trip both knock sensors simultaneously....
Well I got a chance today to put it on the hose and came to the conclusion that the ECU is the problem.
The starboard motor (the one that cooked the IAC) would fire up then die within 10seconds. Swapped with port motor and it would run fine. What was weird was when I would put bad ECU on the other motor and it would stay running. It would throw knock sensor codes and sound the alarm every minute or so but it wouldn't die.
I figured I would send the ECU to whipple.
The starboard motor (the one that cooked the IAC) would fire up then die within 10seconds. Swapped with port motor and it would run fine. What was weird was when I would put bad ECU on the other motor and it would stay running. It would throw knock sensor codes and sound the alarm every minute or so but it wouldn't die.
I figured I would send the ECU to whipple.
#48
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Got the pcm put back in and the boat stays running now and idles as it should. I have only ran it on the hose and it will idle all day long with no codes. When the RPM's go over 2,000 it throws knock sensor codes for both sensors. The engine sounds great and idles and revs as it should. I have no idea what would trip both knock sensors simultaneously....
Are your knock sensor wires tie wrap next to the spark lug wires?