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Should the guys at Riggs know that the ecm was flashed by whipple when they scan the engine
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Anyone have a ballpark what I'm looking at spending to fix this money pit
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Originally Posted by Questofpower
(Post 4552830)
You are only a few miles from me, I am not sure who would be reputable around this area. I will help you figure this out if I have to fix it myself.
Post the engine serial number (it is ok to do that we can't do anything with it). BUP who responded on here is one the best 496HO problem solvers in the country. Because of where you bought the boat there is a chance he may have worked on it and the previous owner did not want to fix per his recomndations. I tell you listen to him. I want to add I have never ever touched this boat nor seen this boat ever - and the reasons I want to post this is 1. I do not want my name associated in any form linked to a problem child like this --- The deal with me would have been, if the boat was in my hands whenever timeframe(s) - I would have either passed on touching it or the boat would have left my hands without one single issue being 100 percent turn key lake tested and lake ready., I very much so wanted to post this to make sure my name was never on this boat period. Sorry for being so adamant about this here. Hopefully not sounding like a pita either. |
4 batteries and all hooked to what and where and why ??? Also sounds like a wiring mess in the making as well
I did list voltage as an issue, all ECM's / PCM's hate low voltage and unsteady voltage. They need proper voltage and steady voltage constantly. How many accessories are spiced into any of the wiring harnesses here ? a complete not to have anything sliced into a computer control engine - any inline splicing of whatever added into the mix can cause voltage problems hugely . Just saying |
Originally Posted by Snobo4rder08
(Post 4552849)
Anyone have a ballpark what I'm looking at spending to fix this money pit
That said, diagnostics costs money and who know's how long and how much you will be charged for this part of the repair. Good news - you can put a $$$ amt of diagnostics not to exceed without contacting you and getting further authorization if need be. And yes, you can get this in writing. I've done this a bunch of times for customers......many (not all) are low blue collar and low income and schit bricks over $50 let a lone a few hundred. This puts them at ease and it mostly makes sure I don't waste my time ($$$) also. |
Originally Posted by Snobo4rder08
(Post 4552849)
Anyone have a ballpark what I'm looking at spending to fix this money pit
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Hey everyone again I say thank you for all of the info not the kind of guy to get into a legal mess with anyone, wisconsin breed through and through just honestly want to fix my boat.
BUP, There is 1 battery for starting and there are 3 others to run 12 speakers, 3 wetsound subwoofers, and two amps. There is also led lighting around the speakers and there is led lights out the transom. Other then that there is nothing out of the ordinary for electrical |
Also forgot to add would anyone know why when I lift the back seat why a huge 2x2 foot would be cut from the engine bay into the seat through the fiberglass ? Again I'm assuming blower?
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Could it be the starting battery is isolated from the others,,,,,and the starting battery is used only for cranking. Hmmmm. Everything else is on a dead battery(s) or one's not being charged at the moment.
So, as Bup mentioned, and I mentioned in quotes below, let's get looking at the batteries, switches, and alternator first.
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4552837)
The above plus engine shutting off / running like crap, sure sounds like a voltage issue to me. Before digging into wiring, please question your battery (s) and alternator.
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Originally Posted by Snobo4rder08
(Post 4552886)
Also forgot to add would anyone know why when I lift the back seat why a huge 2x2 foot would be cut from the engine bay into the seat through the fiberglass ? Again I'm assuming blower?
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