I had a Hardin SS pump that did not pump the volume of water the stock pump did . Have heard others with the same complaint . Just an FYI .

You gainned very little cooling by going to the longer 2" cooler. A 3" has about 3 times as many tubes inside it to cool the oil. But as I'm not trying to spend your money look at a couple things. First, where the adapter fitting go to the cooler, are the holes in the cooler the same size as the -10 line? Thats about 5/8" ID. If the cooler doesn't have holes the same as the line, you add a restriction which can increase temps. I have always measured my oil temps before the cooler. Its a never ending debate, but as long as you have at least 1 number you are ahead of the game. Before I did cooling changes, I ran 260+ at WOT all the time. I changed to a 3" with -12 lines and lowered my water temp, and dropped the oil to 230 max on a 25 mile WOT run. If I had to guess, my oil was 50-60 degrees cooler after the cooler, so hitting the bearings at 180 or so. I was also running about 100 HP more than you, which of course needs more cooling.

So after you make sure about the cooler inlet sizes, you need to check the cooling system. With a 140* Stat, you should be around that number. Make sure your impellor is putting out what it should, and backflush your engine and cooler to make sure there is no crap in the water passages. You said you had EFI, so as I had carb, some of this may be incorrect or may have to have the tune adjusted for. I ran water temps right around 125-130. I forced it there by throwing away the Tstat and using Moroso restrictors. No restriction never got me above 100, I ended up with the middle size one. The other thing you can do is drill 2-3 holes in your Tstat to let more water through. Again, I had a Carb. You may be stuck with running higher temps for the EFI. Someone here with efi can tell you that answer.

As was aready said, having the wrong A/F numbers can increase temps quickly. If the computer has been "tuned" have someone that knows what they are doing look at it and make sure your A/F numbers are correct.

If you are running a good Full Syn oil it can handle crazy high temps. Over 300. Not telling you thats okay, just what the oil can take before it loses viscosity. Your 80 psi is crazy high. The old 10 psi per 1000 is fine. I ran around 60 psi turning 5500+ for 6 years and never missed a beat. There is no way that you should need 50w to make pressure unless your bearing clearances are too wide. 10-40 or 25-40 should be fine.

Did check the level and it was a tad below full, so do believe I'm good
My bypass valve has been blocked off.
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Sure hope it isn't the pump, but plan to install a pressure gauge soon

Will keep investigating to find the issue

water psi is a touchy subject, in regards to cooling. Its hard to reallly factor what the optimum pressure reading really is. Reason being, each setup can be different.

Lets say you compare two engine setups. Both the same engines, just rigged differently.

One engine, has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. It has a aftermarket thermostat housing, with -10 AN lines feeding the exhaust.

Other engine has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. This one has 1 inch or -16AN lines feeding the exhaust. For arguments sake, lets assume they both are running crossovers.

The engine with -10 lines, may show 20psi of water psi, while the one with -16 lines, may show 10psi of water pressure in the system. However, the one with -16 lines, is moving more water, thru the cooler, the engine, and the exhaust, therefore doing a better job of cooling things.

There is always the argument that if water moves too fast , it wont cool as well. Any engineer of heat exhangers will argue that. More flow/volume simply works better. The only reason this argument came about, was in cars, where if you removed the thermostat, and had too small of a radiator, the water may not spend enough time in the radiator, to be cooled down. In raw water cooled boats, we are not recirculating cooling water. We have an unlimited supply. Plus, we are not using air for an exchange. Reducing water flow, would be like the car guy saying "we have too much airflow past the radiator!"

Its hard to see,but is there a bypass valve in the oil in passage of the oil filter pad?if so,need to remove it.

Good info MT and have to agree with you. Don't know what the final outcome will be, but for right not I'm sure glad I installed the gauge and started changing things to increase oil flow. Guess the only reason I didn't start leaking from the remote filter before (pressure never went above 58 maybe 60 with old sender) is because using the stock oil lines was giving me so much restriction I wasn't getting the flow.

There is anything in the hole, had my head down there to make sure before installing the new remote filter head

Starting to think I have a ticking time bomb. Have a high volume oil pump so that's good with the HP I'm producing, but if I continue to develop 80 PSI oil pressure running hard, I'm going to spin a bearing or blow the oil filter apart. From what I understand is to use a high volume pump you need to increase the bearing clearance and if the was not done then I have an issue.

All that over 80 psi ? Nah.

Please explain, I already have a leak around the oil filter gasket?

I have 100psi of oil pressure cold getting on plane at 4k rpm. 75-80 onve warmed up. No issues past 5 years

80 psi should cause no issues. Quazzillion out there that run 80 psi. In fact, a pretty standard pressure for high po engines.

100 psi MT? Wow ! Go big or go home right ? :)

You don't have any issue with 80 psi. You don't need it, but its not going to hurt anything. Truthfully you need to forget about the oil pressure and worry about the high oil temp, which will cause you problems way before th e80 psi will.

Thanks,
Looked up the burst pressure of the 51060R filter and its well above 100 psi, so I'll let this one concern alone and go back to the other issues along with the heat

Did this get answered?

As a heads up too, there has been many people that have seen oil temps drop a bunch after tuning the carb / fi.

Response in post 47. There is no bypass valve in the hole.

The motor was first tuned with a different prop set on then what I have now. Do agree, if its off the heat will increase, and plan to have the AFR checked soon. As before I'm glad I installed a temp gauge, because the water temp gives no indication of an issue.

Here is a better pic

Had a short couple runs today and no WOT, just cruised at 3600 rpm, using 20W50 Castor Oil. Motor stayed at 160 degrees for max temp both runs

Cold start about 60 psi, idle out thru no wake, motor at almost 140 degrees, throttle up, seeing 75 psi and temp came up after 7 mile run to 220 degrees.

Back in, temp at 110 degrees, throttle up and see 78-80 psi, temp comes back up after a bit to 220 degrees.

Idles hot both times after runs around 40 maybe a tad above.

My filter is still leaking a slight bit of oil (2nd one). Do I crank it down tighter or something else?

You show 110, and 140 Water temp where you list the oil temps, and as you can see, it lowered your oil temp a bunch. As I said above, that is the same thing I saw and why I lowered my water temps, to help keep oil cooler.

If your filter is leaking, check the surface on the remote mount. make sure its flat and smooth. You only need to tighten the filter as normal. I have never had an oil filter ever leak around the gasket.no matter the pressure.

I thought that my filter was leaking and it turned out to be the fitting right above it on my Hardin bulkhead.

The 140 was because of initial start up and the long no wake, the 110 was starting up to head back in and just a short idle out of a cove and are water temps. Took a couple miles for the oil gauge to start showing anything. Both cruise runs ended up with the oil at 220.

I did check the fittings and will look into the filter further

Hello guys
I have done now a first day with my 600SCi and only like to now if my gauges tell that all is ok! Engine and boat run without any problems!
Water is at 150 degree,Waterpressure is over 30 Psi at WOT,oiltemp 150/160 Psi,but oilpressure 65-75 Psi! Are this all is ok?
I run the full sync merc oil 20W50 that they offer for all racing engines!All gauges are smartcraft!
The intercooler have 10AN fittings for a bit more flow.drive is at moment XR with dual water pickup.
Hope you can give some infos if this all is ok! I only think about oil pressure as rest looks fine.
I use before standart engines that have not that high pressure at oil!
thanks!
michael

Sounds perfect to me other than water pressure may be slightly high.

Ok thanks! Merc manual say minimum 30 Psi at wot!
At 3500 Rpm it is only 25 Psi! So thats all in a good range!
Or better lower?? I can open the restrictors in the CMi to lower the pressure maybe??
The Speedo is set to metric,so show KmH!
Michael https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7975eff63f.jpg

Sounds like you got yours under control now.
I installed a 2.75x18 cooler this season and so far the oil temps going into the cooler has been no more then 200 degrees. At 200 I think I'm good with lake temps at 82 degrees, will keep watch as the summer continues. I'm on the second season of my impeller and the Hardin marine pump, with water pressure at 20 to 23 psi WOT. Cruise 3600 rpm is around 18 to 20 psi

Agree, but was hitting well past safe level when I started, at least I'm not getting into the extreme zone as I was before. If I can keep it around this area under normal loads, might look into those next.

That said have not been paying a lot of attention to oil temp since they started staying in the below 250 area. Have been concentrating more on AFR and wondering if the SS sea pump was not such a good buy. Also auto trim tabs

I thought I read earlier in the thread that you have the stock merc remote oil filter mount?? is that correct?? if so it should have an oil thermostat in it if its a merc racing one...if so you may want to change that just to take that out of the equation of possibly sticking??

Correct have a stock Merc remote which has 5/8 NPT to 3/8 flare fittings, and replaced the 3/8 lines and fittings with AN-10 size, and high flow oil remote adapter (removing the stock center fitting). The thermostat is a good idea if (my important IF) I'm able to keep the temps within a safe range. I started off with a 12x2 inch cooler and my temps were exceeding 280 degrees and did not even know it. Changed to a 18x2 last season and I could not go for much of a run beyond 5 or 6 miles without it getting to high.

Do agree getting to 212 will boil off the water better then 200, but oil changes every 20 sum hours and fresh water, I'm not thinking its that much of an issue currently, but have been wrong many times before (sometimes more error then others).

Appreciate the comments it keeps me thinking and but no means do I know even half of anything

This year yet another larger cooler, dual AFR meter, water pressure gauge and I'm starting to get a handle on my issues not known previously. Trying to get a measure of fuel, timing, heat along with oil type. Running 20W50 but they guy I'm working with wants me to go back to Bard Penn 50W. As the data progresses, I'll add/change more things

Latest update:
Installed a 2.75 by 18 cooler and not even at WOT it does not get above 220 degrees. Second season on impeller and Hardin pump. Water pressure at 5 psi when cold and about 2 psi when warmed up at idle. Pressure goes up to 25 cold and 22 or so when warm above 3000 rpm. Normally temps staying between 210 and 220 with water temps at 84 degrees. Do see the latest cooler will take care of my oil temp issues. Not so sure about the Hardin pump but for not its working.

Oil pressure does not drop below 40 psi at idle even after a WOT run for maybe 5 minutes. Do not see pressure above 80 psi but then again I'm warmed up by the time I get out of the no wake zone to throttle up

Now to continue on with AFR changes and auto trim tabs

Oil temp
 

I am running a 427 bbc, deep pan, 18 inch oil cooler driven by the jet. 240 is not unusual, have two gauges two sensors bottom oil pan top of block both read about the same running wide open for more than 15 minutes we are at 300.