I had a Hardin SS pump that did not pump the volume of water the stock pump did . Have heard others with the same complaint . Just an FYI .

You gainned very little cooling by going to the longer 2" cooler. A 3" has about 3 times as many tubes inside it to cool the oil. But as I'm not trying to spend your money look at a couple things. First, where the adapter fitting go to the cooler, are the holes in the cooler the same size as the -10 line? Thats about 5/8" ID. If the cooler doesn't have holes the same as the line, you add a restriction which can increase temps. I have always measured my oil temps before the cooler. Its a never ending debate, but as long as you have at least 1 number you are ahead of the game. Before I did cooling changes, I ran 260+ at WOT all the time. I changed to a 3" with -12 lines and lowered my water temp, and dropped the oil to 230 max on a 25 mile WOT run. If I had to guess, my oil was 50-60 degrees cooler after the cooler, so hitting the bearings at 180 or so. I was also running about 100 HP more than you, which of course needs more cooling.

So after you make sure about the cooler inlet sizes, you need to check the cooling system. With a 140* Stat, you should be around that number. Make sure your impellor is putting out what it should, and backflush your engine and cooler to make sure there is no crap in the water passages. You said you had EFI, so as I had carb, some of this may be incorrect or may have to have the tune adjusted for. I ran water temps right around 125-130. I forced it there by throwing away the Tstat and using Moroso restrictors. No restriction never got me above 100, I ended up with the middle size one. The other thing you can do is drill 2-3 holes in your Tstat to let more water through. Again, I had a Carb. You may be stuck with running higher temps for the EFI. Someone here with efi can tell you that answer.

As was aready said, having the wrong A/F numbers can increase temps quickly. If the computer has been "tuned" have someone that knows what they are doing look at it and make sure your A/F numbers are correct.

If you are running a good Full Syn oil it can handle crazy high temps. Over 300. Not telling you thats okay, just what the oil can take before it loses viscosity. Your 80 psi is crazy high. The old 10 psi per 1000 is fine. I ran around 60 psi turning 5500+ for 6 years and never missed a beat. There is no way that you should need 50w to make pressure unless your bearing clearances are too wide. 10-40 or 25-40 should be fine.

Did check the level and it was a tad below full, so do believe I'm good
My bypass valve has been blocked off.
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Sure hope it isn't the pump, but plan to install a pressure gauge soon

Will keep investigating to find the issue

water psi is a touchy subject, in regards to cooling. Its hard to reallly factor what the optimum pressure reading really is. Reason being, each setup can be different.

Lets say you compare two engine setups. Both the same engines, just rigged differently.

One engine, has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. It has a aftermarket thermostat housing, with -10 AN lines feeding the exhaust.

Other engine has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. This one has 1 inch or -16AN lines feeding the exhaust. For arguments sake, lets assume they both are running crossovers.

The engine with -10 lines, may show 20psi of water psi, while the one with -16 lines, may show 10psi of water pressure in the system. However, the one with -16 lines, is moving more water, thru the cooler, the engine, and the exhaust, therefore doing a better job of cooling things.

There is always the argument that if water moves too fast , it wont cool as well. Any engineer of heat exhangers will argue that. More flow/volume simply works better. The only reason this argument came about, was in cars, where if you removed the thermostat, and had too small of a radiator, the water may not spend enough time in the radiator, to be cooled down. In raw water cooled boats, we are not recirculating cooling water. We have an unlimited supply. Plus, we are not using air for an exchange. Reducing water flow, would be like the car guy saying "we have too much airflow past the radiator!"

Its hard to see,but is there a bypass valve in the oil in passage of the oil filter pad?if so,need to remove it.

Good info MT and have to agree with you. Don't know what the final outcome will be, but for right not I'm sure glad I installed the gauge and started changing things to increase oil flow. Guess the only reason I didn't start leaking from the remote filter before (pressure never went above 58 maybe 60 with old sender) is because using the stock oil lines was giving me so much restriction I wasn't getting the flow.

There is anything in the hole, had my head down there to make sure before installing the new remote filter head

Starting to think I have a ticking time bomb. Have a high volume oil pump so that's good with the HP I'm producing, but if I continue to develop 80 PSI oil pressure running hard, I'm going to spin a bearing or blow the oil filter apart. From what I understand is to use a high volume pump you need to increase the bearing clearance and if the was not done then I have an issue.

All that over 80 psi ? Nah.

Please explain, I already have a leak around the oil filter gasket?

I have 100psi of oil pressure cold getting on plane at 4k rpm. 75-80 onve warmed up. No issues past 5 years