TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Toe-in being the bullets are closer together than the prop shafts.

Digging into search, I found that Formula was setting them up with a 1/2 inch toe-in, but then changed their thinking and set them up parallel.

Something to play with.

class6

Yes. Set them up or at least check them to see where you are. Check them at level/neutral trim. Make the nose 1/8 more than center of prop shafts.

mcollinstn

Check the top Gimbal bearings. Your drives may be about ready to fall off.
Also, check the steering assist valve for smooth action and all of the internal tie bar and joints.
Finally, make sure the steering cable is well-lubricated, not kinked anywhere, and is firmly secured at the helm box.
Also, the keyway on the steering shaft to pinion might need checked.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Top gimbal bearings?

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Everything feels solid, but I'll give it a thorough inspection.

Today, no issues with steering, but we ran in choppy conditions for the most part.

hustlerguy

If your trimmed up to high you will loose steering capabilities.
The prop could be cavatating, the scag and propeller could be in a low pressure pocket caused by your hull.
That is why when your trimmed down you have good bite. That's why in rough water you don't loose bite your going up and down with low pressure no bite on props then bite, then no bite then bite, on and on...
Different prop and or less positive trim angle I would say May be your answer.

ezstriper

the P/S actuator is taking a crap, unit where hoses connect to, if it's not been changed will have the the old style with a seperate cylinder and 2 short extra lines, new style eliminates those parts, but you need to change the hoses over to the O-ring style ends(no big deal) or it time for hyd. upgrade

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Bringing this one back up to the top...

I did some testing with some 4-blade Bravos yesterday (going to stick with 3-blades). Anyway, I noticed a lot of twitchiness this time out. The more trim that's added, the worse it gets. It's best descibed as the boat skating and tendancy want to grab/hook with corrections. Not at all confidence inspiring.

I've checked the steering with the engine running, and there is minimal give in the system. The tiller arms are tight; everything seems solid. Is there a way to test the steering actuator?

And what about the nose cones? I read about the changes in the pivot point of the steering (and to use hydraulic steering with them) as well as pointy nose cones (which I have) inducing stern lift. I can picture how the pivot point change could make things act weird (picture a plane with a full rudder on the nose instead of the tail).

Really need to get thai straight. Interesting that in rough water this isn't a problem so maybe it's a combination of things.

rak rua

Forgive me if this question is too obvious, I know you don't have external steering but you do at least have a tie-bar?
I had a 27 Pachanga with 502's, the gimbal bearings were bad and no tie-bar. Couldn't drive past 50, replaced gimbal bearings, much better, then added the tie-bar and she was a new boat.

Strangely, the terrible steering response was not nearly so bad in choppy water.

RR

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Yes, got the tie bar. Both drives are also connected to the internal steering. Again, everything is tight back there. The drives have no up/down movement, and the side-side movement is minimal (with the engine running).

Regarding the gimbal bearings... these are TRS drives, and they do not use a traditional gimbal bearing. There's no noise or vibration so I think those workings are in order.

On a separate note the toe settings need to be looked at (they appear to be a good deal toe-in where they should be slightly toe-out). Haven't' gotten there yet.