I have seen someone install the wrong head gaskets on a gen 4 block and have the same issue. verify that the correct part number was used.

Compression test results135-145 on cylinders 2-4-6-8-1-3-7 cold motor obviously.

#5 was 180. Turned motor over without the gauge and it shot water out.

quit for the night.


Hes pretty confident its not a casting issue. Im still thinking intake gasket failed but i guess we'll see, its gotta come off either way.

dropping motor back off on monday.

Will update again will i hear more info. Last year i got to boat till 4th of july. This year i made it to memorial day. If my wife had her way this thing would ne sold and id be riding in a pontoon. i think this boat hates me.

That happened to me once on an old motor, the intake passage rotted through and dumped water in

if it had water in a cylinder, don't think its the intake gaskets, head gasket, head or splint cylinder wall..

I agree about not being intake gaskets since #5 cylinder was the one with water in it.

Hes gonna run a leak down test and go from there. Even if its just a gasket he Said he would also pull the pan off and check everything. Will run it on his stand once he fixes everything. The block was checked for cracks last summer before the rebuild. My old heads had a crack so thats why i bought new. Hes stepping up and taking care of it, apologized for it happening on my vacation. Chit happens i get it.

At this point i really dont care. I just want to get some boating in. Like was mentioned earlier its probably better to ensure it gets cleaned this way. Ill have a few nights just cleaning the bilge, oil lines etc. i have the motor just about ready to be pulled should finish up tonight. Saturday its suppossed to be 100 degrees here and my wife and i are doing a beer run (3 miles 18 obstacles with beer at each one) if i dont die and stay sober (doubtful��) Ill take the boat to a buddies warehouse and use his forklift to hoist it out. Most likely will be sunday morning.

ill report back next week when i hear something. Thank you for all the replies and a special thanks to derekandkathy for taking the time to email me with help. I really appreciate the knowledge you guys have.

Sorry to hear of your troubles. Sounds like builder is doing the right thing. I hope you are back on the water shortly. Best of luck.

Sounds like a bad head OR a bad exhaust manifold

Stainless marine manifolds and long tails were dry as a bone. Also the exhaust ports in the head showed no signs of moisture and this motor has ALOT of water in it.

While they are off i wouldnt mind having them checked just to rule it out. Can i pressure test them myself some how?

also the oil cooler. I dont think either of these is the problem but i dont wanna do this a 3rd time

Double post...again.

Put a block-off plate over each of the 4 water passages on the heads with an intake manifold gasket on there. Fire up the pressure tester. If it doesn't hold pressure, it is not the manifold gasket or the intake itself. And you have the added advantage of being able to check for head gasket water leaks-which are now air leaks-under the intake which is no longer there. Oil cooler. Pressure test it by itself while it is out. Either the water or the oil side.

Hopefully he just forgot to torque down the intake bolts. I'm hoping for the best for ya.

Dropped off this morning and he already has the heads off

said the head gaskets were fine. Also doesnt think its an intake gasket

he said there looked like some built up rust at the bottom of the cylinder walls that he doesnt think is from water being in there for a week. Hes wondering if it started leaking last year? Ive been religiously checking oil and have seen no signs of water untill now

i did pressure test my oil cooler. I plugged one oil line fitting and used a hose barb in the other and hooked the radiator testor to it. Pumped it up to 25# and it was still at 25# an hour later........good?

havnt checked exhaust yet cause im not sure how i can? If it was exhaust related i would think it would have hydro locked? He said it had more water in the motor the. Hes ever seen. In his opinnon there is no way it could have been flushed. At this point its a complete tear down

Have him put heads on and pressure test. He can probably even use head gaskets over...for pressure testing. Email me his number and I will describe my test rig to him. The good news is he is on it. My biggest fear was he was gonna get to it mid-august or so.

Bummer to hear especially since the problem isn't immediately obvious or simple. Keep focused on that first beer on the water once it's sorted. Best of luck!

Thank you. Its a bumer for sure. It starting to sound like this could be a exspensive fix.

He is gonna finish tearing it down today and inspect even closer. He will be checking the block and heads if he doesn't find the smoking gun. I cant really complain about the builder. Hes s good dude and so far is basically stopping on his other builds to get me back running. I know he is just as curious as i am right now

he definitly wants the exhaust verified to at least rule it out. Anyone have any ideas on how i can pressure check them? Its stainless marine manifolds and tails.

So far the only thing i have to go on is the fact that this happened in the span of 10-15 minutes, motor still holds compression on all 8 cylinders, water in#5 and rust build up in the bottom of the cylinder walls.

Stupid phone.

You can leak test them at no pressure. Stand them upright and fill water passage till it comes out the riser. Look in exhaust ports for water coming in. Won't tell you they are for sure good, but it'll for sure tell you if they are bad. As far as capping off water exits in risers to use pressure, you need to get a little creative. They have balloons and such. Put in to block water holes and inflate them, stuff like that. I still think he should pressure test the block and heads. You may well never see a hole by using eyeball. Now, if he removes rotating assy and sees nothing, he can still bolt on the heads and pressure test the empty block. Those are dry joint manifolds. Unhook water hose to risers and cap them. Turn on hose into manifolds. Look for water in ports. House water is 30 to 50 psi.

Yep just got off the phone with jerry at stainless marine. He said i have an old system but still thinks its ok. He walked me tjeough how to test the manifolds and risers so i ll start on that tonight.

Also he said the pieces inside ratteling around are actually zincs that were inside the fittings at one time. No worries about them as they wont hurt anything

How did he say to plug water outlets in risers?

He said the risers are definitly more tricky, but to use a plumbers ball and run water through the other end. Not perfect but about the only thing i can do

he did say its pretty rare to see em crack even an older system like mine especially in fresh water

One thing you can do. Seperate riser from manifold. Set riser up so exhaust outlet,is straight up. Fill riser slowly. You get a bit more water weight which acts as pressure. And you can see in the inlet side. But the water volume your engine is getting in is difficult to get from exhausts, especially cuz it wasn't an overnight thing. When engine is running most of water leaking in exhaust gets blown out the exhaust.

My thoughts exactly but im just doing what he asked. Im not doing this again and im making sure everything is verified before i start this thing up again

Checked each manifold. I put a hose barb in one water port and plugged the others. Hooked the garden hose up to the barb and let her rip. Our city water is at least 30# and i didnt see a single drop after 5 min. Still need to check risors. Im wondering if i am asking for trouble trying to separate the risor from the manifold? Im sure it hasnt been apart for a long time.

Nah, they are stainless. They didn't rot. Hook hoses back up between man-riser. Stand upright and hose test. Looks like the only way to pressure test those risers would be to weld those water exit holes shut. And I don't think this riser type has a rep for cracking and leaking.

I use a plumbers test ballon to seal off the water exits. It's not perfect but gets the job done.

CHERNE Multi-Size 3 in. - 4 in. Test-Ball Plug-276348 - The Home Depot

Tested the port side riser best i could. Nothing noticable that i could tell. I would assume if this was a riser issue it would be pretty easy to see it with as much water as it had in the short amount of time. Will check other side tonght.

Havent heard from builder since monday. Have a call in to get an update. Hopefully he has found something.

The odds of it being a SSM manifold leaking are pretty slim.

I agree. Seems like u dont hear about them failing very often. Why is ssm not as prone as some of the others out there?

Plus, he pressure tested the manifolds. Only the risers were not tested under pressure. And they were eyeball leak tested at no pressure, which would still show most leaks, and all bad leaks. That block and heads need pressure tested.

The verdict is in!
 

just got off the phone. He said he went back to the head gaskets and found signs of both leaking. he didnt surface the heads cause they were new. Heads are getting surfaced and block checked as well. Block was pressure checked and is fine.

i need to get a new fuel pump. Had a holley mechanical. I saw the thread reccomending cv pumps. $500 aint in the cards unfortunatley.

I was running a mechanical fuel pump ( I think it was a Holley ) and it supported 650 HP - You don't need a high $ electric one.

I dunno why you feel you need to replace that pump. It just got oiled up real good. But if you insist, I'll pay for shipping and you can send the old one to me...I still want to hear he-or you-pressure tested that engine before it goes back in.

The builder told me he called holley about it and they told him it was shot and blew out the diaphram.

Everything will be checked before it goes back together for sure.

Ok. Motor is back together and in the boat. just for the heck of it i decided to pressure check again

no water in block. Room temp. Pump it up to 20# and it slowly leaks down. Could hear air hissing in the front of the motor. Started spraying soapy water around and discovered its leaking air at each flange on the crossover. Ive never noticed water leaking there before. Pulled the crossover back off and gaskets looked ok. The flange does have a slight warp to it.

Is this a problem? Its never leaked water before. Can i double gasket it or has to. be replaced? Never had this issue before?

Are you using any silicone or installing the gaskets dry ?

Installed dry.

Can your engine guy have it surfaced .