Good news is the engine appears to good now. Its back in and ive had it running for about 15 min on the hose while ibwas setting timing. Runs good...no leaks etc so im hoping its fixed. Praying its fixed

bad news is my drive is now stuck in reverse. Can move the gear lever full forward to full reverse at the helm and nothing. Feels like its not attached

Prop is spinning when motor is running, however it didnt do this yeaterday when i had it running on the hose. I didnt try shifting it yesterday either.

Does this sound like a shift cable at the drive issue? Im thinking(hopeing) my cable didnt engage with the drive. Ill pull the drive back off tomorrow morning when i can get some muscle to help me. My drivestand doesnt move so i have to do it the old fashioned way.

yep, lower shift cable

Agree, you missed the little catch when you were offering the drive up, set the drive straight up and down, buuild a small wood platform to support the skeg. with help slide the drive off the studs. you may have to straighten the shift wire with a pair of pliers. make sure the catch is open and in the out position, then go back on making sure the ball goes into the catch.

here you go

At least you aren't back with "milkshake!!"

Yea. One step forward one backwards

drive is fixed. It was exactly what i thought


new problem.......again

shes gettin hot. Water temp creeps up to 200 i was watching and shut it down. Let it cool dwn and did a once over and sidnt see anything obvious. Tried again and started creeping up so i **** it down and put it back in the garage. Its hotter then hell in iowa right now. Turned the ac on and pulled impeller. Havnt taken it apart but i can see the vines look ok througj the inlet/outlet ports

pulled the intake hose. Some water drained. Pulled the ouutlet port and lots of water drained (hot water). Pulled thermostat. 160 degree with 3 small holes drilled. I can move thermostat with my thumb pretty easily. Very little water in the intake under the thermostat. Exhaust hoses mostly dry.

ther is not the same amount of water coming out rhe exhaust either. Its spitting it out at best.

Have run the boat on the hose close to 20 min before and wasnt an issue.



Any ideas?

Double check that the hoses are correct on the pump. I, I mean a friend got them backwards and would run fine on the hose but not prime at the ramp. Such a dumb friend.

Run it without the thermostat. You can move it against the spring but that doesn't mean the thermostatic element is any good. I've had a couple turn to garbage sitting in the off season.

Thanks i verified hoses are correct. I also pulled every hose off and blew air back through em. Also back through oil cooler. Nothing i could tell is blocking anything and i flushed every hose and oil cooler while the motor was out.

Just for the hell of it ran up and bought a new thermostat. The new one is way easier to open. Putting it back together now. Ill report back later.

Huh, I never found thermostats easy to open by hand. Maybe I should just work out more. :)

Also, even with t-stat closed, there should be water coming out of the exhaust like a mother f'r. Unless you have a crossover without a water bypass and a t-stat installed, then nothing will come out until a intake or headgasket pushes out or t-stat finally opens.

Bravo pumps move a pantload (yes, a measurement here) of water !

Its running fine now. On the hose for 10 min and never went over 150.

Not sure if it was the thermostat or the garden hose wasnt aligned right on the drive. My neighbor was helping me. I put it on the drive and fired it up but didnt look at it after that the first time.

After the tstat replace i did the same. Only this time also hopped back out and checked it. It wasnt aligned perfectly. Once i moved it all it sucked all the water up from the hose instantly

always check the simple things first

gonna water test tonight..........good or bad out come im drinking like a fish!

I hate muffs and went with the Perko system where the hose directly connects with the intake line, and never looked back.

another overlooked place is the fitting in the transom the water comes thru. it can pack up with stuff. pull hose and put a long drill bit thru it, by hand of course.

didnt make it to the water today, and tomorrow we gotta pool party so will have to wait till one night this week after work for a water test, but its got close to 45 minutes run time now and so far so good.

Spent the whole day on the water. Went good for the most part

i had to tune my new quick fuel carb a little. Rear float was to high and floding it. No biggie and ran good after that

my audible alarm was sounding. Tracked it down to water temp. Gauge never went over 150 all day. I noticed my water psi changed as the alarm sounded. 10# when it was going off. No alarm =15#. Motor was never hot to touch anywhere.

my oil temp climbed to 225 after. 10 minute run at 3800-4100 rpm. Came right back down after i left off. Normal?

there are 2 temp senders. one for alarm and one for the gauge. your pressure is dropping, mebbe the alarm sender is in a location that loses water and gets a shot of steam. OK, switch sending unit locations. and once again, man am I glad current issue has nothing to do with the title of this thread...

I think your right on the steam theory but what confuses me is both senders are in the front of the intake manifold. One each side of the thermostat. I wouldnt think swaping em would change anything.

some temp senders don't read hot without water. they somehow don't see hot steam at all. you are running a crossover? rebuild the raw water pump, and flush and check entire incoming water circuit. this is what circ pumps are for, but you don't have one. slight drop in psi with circ pump wont starve parts of the engine of coolant.

Cross over with bypass.

Ive flushed every hose. Oil cooler, fitting, newer impeller, plenty of water out the exhaust

i have a 160 thermostat with 3 small holes drilled in it. Think a 140 thermostat would help?

water pressure fluctuation. where is the pressure gauge? in engine, or before engine. have you checked the fitting where water comes thru the hull? it is the smallest dia part of water sys in the first place.

Water psi is taken on the front of the intake same place as the gauge sending unit. Sender for the alarm is also front of the intake on the opposite side of thermostat

i know hoses/oil cooler are fine as i checked everything when the motor was out.

Im pretty sure i checked the transom fitting too last year and it was fine. (Didnt do this before engine rebuild)

i ordered a 140 degree thermostat since that is what was originally in it and al i could find was a 160 last saturday

seems odd that gauge reads perfect at 150 even at higher rpms but alarm is sounding when i would think they are each getting even water flow at all times

wonder if i am sucking air somewhere.

You could always unhook the water alarm sender.

My OCD wont allow that.....lol

im gonna check all hose connections, try the 140 thermostat and see what happens.

If it still sounds alarm im going to swap the 2 senders while on the water and try again

the only thing i have to go on is
the water psi is 10# when sounding. 15# when off. Seems like it would be related to thermostat opening/closing?
temp gauge stayed at 150 the whole time till i came back to idle then dropped a little
alarm only sounds when above 2500-3000 rpms.

Got a pic or diagram where all your senders are ?

Alarm sender on the right.

I'm seeing adapters under each sender. Wonder if you have a grounding issue.

I thought about that but
1 it was like that when i bought it and the problem just started
2 if it was a bad ground would it make the alarm sound? I would think the other way?

Possibility that the senders being in pockets in the adapters could have them up out of actual water flow.

have you actually shot the engine w/ a infra red temp gun and see if its hot?

Make sure it's not the drive oil bottle sending the alarm, disconnect one sender at a time to be sure,

hi-water-temp, drive-oil, low-oil-pressure.

Sending wires crossed???

Thanks

im sure its water temp, but i dont think its hot. I think its steam I disconnected each sender to verify

i havnt checked with temp gun yet but i will be this wknd. I could put my hand all over the motor and nothing felt hot but the actual sender was hot. I also swapped wires and gauge went dead.

I got to thinking tonight. When the motor was out i inspected all the hoses and discovered a piece of smaller hose inside the bypass hose from crossover to thermostat housing (for exhaust). I thougjt it odd and removed it. Now i am wondering if someone placed it there to force more water to the block.

I got the 140 thermostat and it doesnt fit. I must have orderd the wrong # or something. I wont be able to get a new one in time so i thought i would try a 4th hole in the 160 thermostat and see if it does anything.

have you cleaned the senors since your milkshake incident? or got knew ones?

i havnt but i did some teating today.

Over 3000 rpm alarm sounds after 5 min. Water temp =125. After 10 min oil temp =200.

I stopped after 10 min and lifted hatch. Laser temped everything. Risers/manifolds 110. Starboaed side of manifold= 150. Port side (where alarm sender is) = 190. Motor/heads = 150ish. Oil filter =175.

Water psi is 8-10#. I think this is a bit low but i also drilled a extra hole in thermostat.

My plan now is get. 140 thermostat and gonna replace impeller and housing. I dont like the 45 degree difference between the 2 Sides of the intake. Im thinking my thermostat wasnt probabley even opening. Still not sure why one side of intake is flowing less water.

How can intake manifold coolant be hotter than exhaust manifolds/risers ?

Is 125* unusually low for 5 minutes at 3,000? Or even likely?

my only simple theory is i have a water flow issue. My more exspensive theory is a intake issue. Is it possible i have more water goi g through the bypass hose on the crossover to the manifolds?

Gauage stayed at 125 no matter how hard motor was pushed ( i did t pushe it hard after i realized what was going on). I can idle all day long and nothing gets warm at all

1 side of front intake passage hotter than the other? Is it possible engine guy got so paranoid about water leak that he overdid the gasket sealer and a blob of silicone is partly blocking water port there? Pull sender and adapter and stick a coat hanger hook in there and play go fish. Then mebbe switch sender locations.

Yes, possible and probably what's happening.

You are probably running into a crossover issue for not only the bypass but also the side to side water temp issues.

Many people fight all different things from use of a crossover including water psi and oil temps also.

Do a search on this and you'll see. The Merc recirculating system seems to work much better, especially when one boats up North. Those in warm waters in south seem to do 'okay' with crossover with no bypass and thus use of restrictors instead of t-stats.

I ordered a raw water pump rebuild kit. Gonna replace it all just to rule it out. Maybe I scored it when it was starving for water on the hose earlier.

I wanna try a 140 thermostat but nit having much luck locating the right part #. Any one know what i need? I guessing my current thermostat isnt even opening if im only getting 125 temp on the gauge

i starting to think the piece of hose that was inside the crossover hose was put there to divert more water to block. Kinda like a restrictor.

Take out hose off inlet of crossover from raw pump. Hold it away from stuff and start engine. If it shoots a stream of water as thick as hose dia that travels forward a foot as it starts to drop, you probably have plenty of water flow. If It dribbles and drops as it leaves the hose, you have pump issues.